I have a Roper electric dryer, model # RES7648KQ1. The dryer runs but does not produce any heat. I have tested the power supply, the thermal cutoff, both thermostats, the heating element, and the timer. All have tested good. What else could cause a dryer to run but not produce heat?

I have a Roper electric dryer, model # RES7648KQ1. The dryer runs but does not produce any heat. I have tested the power supply, the thermal cutoff, both thermostats, the heating element, and the timer. All have tested good. What else could cause a dryer to run but not produce heat?

The motor that turns the dryer drum has a safety switch in it. It is activated by centrifugal force. As the motor starts up the centrifugal force causes the switch to close and make the heater element circuit on one leg of the 240 volts the dryer uses to power the heating element. This is a safety device and prevents the heat element from going on if the motor is not running to move the air through the dryer.

I have seen these go bad before and I especially feel yours might be bad since you have tested the rest of the electrical components. NOTE: The electric motor can be running OK but the switch I am talking about that is part of the switch on the end of the motor can still have bad element safety contacts.

I have a Roper electric dryer, model # RES7648KQ1. The dryer runs but does not produce any heat. I have tested the power supply, the thermal cutoff, both thermostats, the heating element, and the timer. All have tested good. What else could cause a dryer to run but not produce heat?

The motor that turns the dryer drum has a safety switch in it. It is activated by centrifugal force. As the motor starts up the centrifugal force causes the switch to close and make the heater element circuit on one leg of the 240 volts the dryer uses to power the heating element. This is a safety device and prevents the heat element from going on if the motor is not running to move the air through the dryer.

I have seen these go bad before and I especially feel yours might be bad since you have tested the rest of the electrical components. NOTE: The electric motor can be running OK but the switch I am talking about that is part of the switch on the end of the motor can still have bad element safety contacts.

Thank you for your helpful information. But, I believe it is the timer after all. All the contacts in the timer showed continuity on heat cycles except R-BK. I jumped R-BK with a jumper wire and it started heating again. It was showing 120 to both of those contacts, so I had assumed the timer was good. Thank you again, for your help.