I have a 93 honda accord that I am fixing back up I'm having a cranking and spark plug problem when I put in new spark plugs my car cranks up with no problem at all and after 4 to 5 days the car will start having cranking problems it has a rough start when I try to crank it I would have to hold down the gas peddle for it to start up if I don't hold down the peddle it will crank and crank until it eventually start up but it cranks up faster if I hold down the gas peddle and it stutters at first like the gas trying to flow threw and then when it catches it runs normal and when I check my spark plugs they are burnt up black and grey on the bottom of the plugs as if they where in for months and they look like this after 4 to 5 days I don't know how to post pictures on here I would show pictures of the plugs. Just a list of things I have changed on the car since I started working on it the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel regulator, fuel injectors, NGK spark plugs, wires, air filter, main relay, distributor, and ignition switch and I also added seaform fuel cleaner in the tank

. Replace the coil.

. Replace the distributor housing with a genuine Honda product, if the problem persists. It's fine to install an aftermarket igniter, to keep the cost down. Over 50% of new aftermarket distributors for Hondas have not worked at AMHD.

Hopefully, you marked the distributor, prior to removal. If you didn't, the timing may be too retarded. Loosen the 3 mounting bolts, in this case, and rotate the distributor slightly counterclockwise (CCW). If this solves the problem, jump the Service Check Connector and set the timing with a strobe light. Afterwards, pull the Back-Up Fuse, in the under hood fuse box, for 10 seconds to reset the ECM.

. Replace the coil.

. Replace the distributor housing with a genuine Honda product, if the problem persists. It's fine to install an aftermarket igniter, to keep the cost down. Over 50% of new aftermarket distributors for Hondas have not worked at AMHD.

Hopefully, you marked the distributor, prior to removal. If you didn't, the timing may be too retarded. Loosen the 3 mounting bolts, in this case, and rotate the distributor slightly counterclockwise (CCW). If this solves the problem jump the Service Check Connector and set the timing with a strobe light. Afterwards, pull the Back-Up Fuse, in the under hood fuse box, for 10 seconds to reset the ECM.

Ok well I never messed with the timing before on a car and I also don't have a timing light so some time next week when I'm off I will take it to a shop and let someone take a look at it and I will let you know the results.

Great.

Great.

Sorry it took me so long to write back but I haven't had time to get to a shop to get the timing checked is there a way I can tell if the timing is right without a timing light ? Ima try and just fix it myself

Sorry it took me so long to write back but I haven't had time to get to a shop to get the timing checked is there a way I can tell if the timing is right without a timing light ? Ima try and just fix it myself
And I didn't mark the distributor when I took it off so the timing might just be off

Without a timing light, you have to set them by ear, which, if you know what you're doing, can be very close.

[QUOTE=TxGreaseMonkey;3296395]Without a timing light, you have to set them by ear, which, if you know what you're doing, can be very close
What would I have to listen for ? Will the motor sound different or would I be listening for some clicking noise or what ?

You need to use common sense and judge the idle speed, smoothness, power, and just the right sound. Then, drive the car and see how it responds. Does it knock with the A/C on during the heat of the day? If so, retard the timing slightly. Does it have enough power--if not, advance the timing. Through trial and error, you should be able to set it so it performs quite well. Finally, evaluate it based on mpg. Remember, final idle speed should be around 700 rpm.

You need to use common sense and judge the idle speed, smoothness, power, and just the right sound. Then, drive the car and see how it responds. Does it knock with the A/C on during the heat of the day? If so, retard the timing slightly. Does it have enough power--if not, advance the timing. Through trial and error, you should be able to set it so it performs quite well. Finally, evaluate it based on mpg.

It doesn't knock at all and it doesn't have power like it should so you are saying advance it OK and then you say evaluate it based on mpg what do you mean by that ?

Yes, loosen the 3 mounting bolts and rotate the distributor housing slight counter-clockwise (CCW). If the gas mileage falls off the cliff, you know there is likely a problem with the timing. If the gas mileage is great, it has lots of power, and does not knock, then you know the timing is likely fine.

[QUOTE=TxGreaseMonkey;3296410]Yes, loosen the 3 mounting bolts and rotate the distributor housing slight counter-clockwise (CCW). If the gas mileage falls off the cliff, you know there is likely a problem with the timiong. If the gas mileage is great, it has lots of power, and does not knock, then you know the timing is likely fine.[/QUOT
E]

OK I end finding someone with a timing light we check the timing and the timing was good the guy said it sounds more like its misfiring so I went to change the plugs and the plugs had some oil on 1 and 3 but I know its not because of the rings on the valve cover gasket because I just replace that so is there some gaskets or something else below the valve that will cause oil to come threw ? And I check my oil and when I took off my oil cap I notice a little bit of white stuff under the cap as if some a little bit of water mix with it I checked the dip stick and it was good it didn't have know white stuff at all on it so what does this mean and could this be the reason for the misfire and for my plugs burning out so fast ?

[QUOTE=TxGreaseMonkey;3296410]Yes, loosen the 3 mounting bolts and rotate the distributor housing slight counter-clockwise (CCW). If the gas mileage falls off the cliff, you know there is likely a problem with the timiong. If the gas mileage is great, it has lots of power, and does not knock, then you know the timing is likely fine.[/QUOT
E]

ok I end finding someone with a timing light we check the timing and the timing was good the guy said it sounds more like its misfiring so I went to change the plugs and the plugs had some oil on 1 and 3 but I know its not because of the rings on the valve cover gasket because I just replace that so is there some gaskets or something else below the valve that will cause oil to come threw ? And I check my oil and when I took off my oil cap I notice a little bit of white stufunder the cap as if some a little bit of water mix with it I checked the dip stick and it was good it didn't have know white stuff at all on it so what does this mean and could this be the reason for the misfire and for my plugs burning out so fast ?

And I only have a problem at start up it stutters a little once its crank and then it levels out and I have know problem with it until I try to crank it again

Did he follow this procedure for using a timing light?

Honda Ignition Timing Adjustment

1. Start the engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.

2. Adjust “Final Idle Speed” to 700 rpm.

3. Turn off engine and all electrical systems.

4. Jump the Service Check Connector (SCC) with a paper clip.

5. Connect positive inductive timing light lead to the positive battery terminal.

6. Connect negative inductive timing light lead to engine ground.

7. Connect inductive timing light lead to the No. 1 spark plug wire.

8. Start engine.

9. Using the timing light, rotate the distributor, after loosening the three 12 mm mounting bolts, until timing is set to 16 degrees BTDC* on the crankshaft pulley. 16 degrees BTDC should be the middle of the three clustered hash marks on the pulley. Align middle hash mark on pulley with pointer above. You may want to take chalk or yellow paint and highlight the hash mark first.

10. Button everything up.

11. Remove the BACKUP fuse for 10 seconds, in order to reset the computer. Record any radio codes first.

Is it oil or unburned gas on plugs 1 and 3? I suspect unburned gas, due to an ignition problem.

Is it oil or unburned gas on plugs 1 and 3? I suspect unburned gas, due to an ignition problem.

He didn't touch the idle but he did everything else and he only had to mov

He didn't touch the idle but he did everything else and he only had to mov

He didn't touch the idle he did everything else he only had to move the distributor a little but advance for it to line up right and yea it was oil

The oil may indicate the valve seals and/or valve guides are bad.

The oil may indicate the valve seals and/or valve guides are bad.

Is that a real bad thing or is that something simple I can fix myself

The oil may indicate the valve seals and/or valve guides are bad.


And what does the milky stuff under my oil cap means ?

It's a bad thing, which most people would not tackle themselves.

It's a bad thing, which most people would not tackle themselves.

Is there no kind of sealant or anything I can use to seal it for awhile to stop the oil from coming threw ?

Nothing I'm aware of.

Nothing I'm aware of.

Ok but what is the milky stuff under my oil cap is that something bad ?

It sounds like coolant is getting into the oil, such as from a blown head gasket. This is also bad. Did the engine ever overheat?

It sounds like coolant is getting into the oil, such as from a blown head gasket. This is also bad. Did the engine ever overheat?

Like 2 weeks ago from a hole n one of the hoses I fix the hose but that's the only time

It only takes once on an aluminum head engine. You need to get the engine tested. I helped a neighbor a month ago repair the engine to her Civic which overheated and blew the head gasket. A local shop wanted $3,200, which she could not afford. I worked for free. There is a lot to it.

It only takes once on an aluminum head engine. You need to get the engine tested. I helped a neighbor a month ago repair the engine to her Civic which overheated and blew the head gasket. A local shop wanted $3,200, which she could not afford. I worked for free. There is a lot to it.
I done replace the head one time before like a year ago but I heard its not good to fix the head twice so is it best I get a new used motor or try and fix it

A good machine shop will always replace the valve seals and valve guides, when they machine the head. I would get a qualified Honda mechanic to evaluate the situation and confirm exactly what is wrong. I'm inclined to always try and fix it.

A good machine shop will always replace the valve seals and valve guides, when they machine the head. I would get a qualified Honda mechanic to evaluate the situation and confirm exactly what is wrong. I'm inclined to always try and fix it.

Ok well ill look for a shop and let someone take a look at it and thanks for the help with everything

Ok well ill look for a shop and let someone take a look at it and thanks for the help with everything


Ok I found out my head is not blown we drain the oil to check for mixture of coolant and there wasn't at all I also got my timing set it was running good until today it wouldn't crank right up again it was very hard to get it started and when I did I drove it to the part store we pulled the plugs and they where burnt again we looked in a Honda book and matched the plugs up with the Ones in the book and found out its carbon deposits witch is causing the car to misfire do you know anything about that ?