My drain has a leak around the elbow joint, and I'd like to reroute from up my stair's kitchen drain. The line currently goes into wall and I like to run it through the floor and remove all the extract elbows and increase the flow before connecting to pipe in the basement.

My drain has a leak around the elbow joint, and I'd like to reroute from up my stair's kitchen drain. the line currently goes into wall and i like to run it through the floor and remove all the extract elbows and increase the flow before connecting to pipe in the basement.
I take it the kitchen sink has not drained fast enough. I full sink will usually take a minute to drain through a normal 1 1/2 in p-trap and pipe. Changing the drain stack to a vertical fall will not do much more unless the drain is cast iron with many inside asperities that accumulates grease and other junk over a short period. How many elbows need to be removed? If you say ten, then I would agree. Any stack or branch that has over 360 degrees of turns may need looking at.
The sink must have a cleanout at the p-trap. Has this been used to open up the drain?
How many turns need to be removed? Has the wall been opened to see how the waste vent stack is plumbed. Does the sink drain have a horizontal arm over 24inches? Nm

If you're going to go to all that trouble, you should increase the drain size to 2" while you're at it -- Assuming it was originally run in 1-1/2", of course.

So the drain rerouting would do any good?
It drains fine most times, but about every other month or so the drain starts to slow down and backs up, than need to call a plumber to snake it out.
There's 4 elbows in, the pipe is a 2" and I can't find the cleanout p-trap

So the drain rerouting would do any good?
It drains fine most times, but about every other month or so the drain starts to slow down and backs up, than need to call a plumber to snake it out.
Theres 4 elbows in, the pipe is a 2" and I can't find the cleanout p-trap


Well mquint,

If the kitchen sink has a p-trap without a wye cleanout next to it, then the p-trap needs removal and the pipe screwed out of the vent/drain santee. There is your temporary clean-out. :D Upon re-installing the (horizontal) adapter into the santee, install a wye with a cleanout plug inline to the p-trap and that will be used for future cleanout snaking.

If the in-wall santee is an el then you have a horizontal arm going a distance to the waste-vent stack. This may be an area of reoccurring build-up in the run and the reason why the original installer used an 2" line even though 1 1/2" was UPC. Who knows. Anyway, install a convenient wye cleanout going into the wall and that should cut down on constant repair calls. Nm