dstrimbu
Jan 1, 2005, 10:37 PM
Hi Experts:
I'm new to the forum, and I'm not a plumber - but I'm doing my second DIY bathroom remodel and I have just a few questions that I'm hoping someone can help me with...
I'm replacing a leaky 36x36 shower pan in our master bath. I selected a larger Swanstone solid surface pan, 36x42 - so, of course, I had to move the drain line. That job went extremely well, but slow - as I was working through a small access hole cut into the floor decking. I'm pretty proud of this part - the drain pipe is perfectly centered in the center of the drain pan when it's in the installed position. I simply replicated the existing trap design, but I used all new PVC from the main trunk forward.
Now, I'm ready to install the Oatey brass no-caulk drain to the pan and the drain pipe. The Oatey instructions are dismal, so I'm wondering:
1.) Should I use a bead of silicone caulk between the top flange of the drain and the top surface of the shower pan? The "instructions" call for it, so I bought some GE Silicone II Bath and Kitchen caulk; wondering what the experts think...
2.) What kind of wrench do you use on the drain flange bottom nut? While the PVC bodied no-caulks have a large plastic hex, the brass nut simply has four lugs. I think a big pipe wrench will work - and also: how tight is tight enough? I won't have access after the pan & wall tile re-install without cutting through the kitchen ceiling below; I'd like to get this correct the first time.
3.) Finally, I'm thinking that I will simply use a large square-shank screwdriver and a small crescent wrench with the flat "wrench" piece to tighten the no-caulk gland to the pipe. Again, how tight? Also, does it make sense to lubricate the rubber gland before tightening? What lube would you use?
I know, I'm full of questions... :)
Thanks in advance for your answers. I'm a mechanical engineer by training, but I'm just a bit out of my league on this job.
Happy New Year!
-don
I'm new to the forum, and I'm not a plumber - but I'm doing my second DIY bathroom remodel and I have just a few questions that I'm hoping someone can help me with...
I'm replacing a leaky 36x36 shower pan in our master bath. I selected a larger Swanstone solid surface pan, 36x42 - so, of course, I had to move the drain line. That job went extremely well, but slow - as I was working through a small access hole cut into the floor decking. I'm pretty proud of this part - the drain pipe is perfectly centered in the center of the drain pan when it's in the installed position. I simply replicated the existing trap design, but I used all new PVC from the main trunk forward.
Now, I'm ready to install the Oatey brass no-caulk drain to the pan and the drain pipe. The Oatey instructions are dismal, so I'm wondering:
1.) Should I use a bead of silicone caulk between the top flange of the drain and the top surface of the shower pan? The "instructions" call for it, so I bought some GE Silicone II Bath and Kitchen caulk; wondering what the experts think...
2.) What kind of wrench do you use on the drain flange bottom nut? While the PVC bodied no-caulks have a large plastic hex, the brass nut simply has four lugs. I think a big pipe wrench will work - and also: how tight is tight enough? I won't have access after the pan & wall tile re-install without cutting through the kitchen ceiling below; I'd like to get this correct the first time.
3.) Finally, I'm thinking that I will simply use a large square-shank screwdriver and a small crescent wrench with the flat "wrench" piece to tighten the no-caulk gland to the pipe. Again, how tight? Also, does it make sense to lubricate the rubber gland before tightening? What lube would you use?
I know, I'm full of questions... :)
Thanks in advance for your answers. I'm a mechanical engineer by training, but I'm just a bit out of my league on this job.
Happy New Year!
-don