There is an existing bathroom switch that controls the overhead light.
We want to add a switch outlet combination. So it controls the overhead light and makes the outlet always powered. I think now like all switch
It is just the hot feed wire, interchanged. The white neutral wire just goes to the fixture. I am replacing a switch with a switch. Or must I pigtail
The power feed

Everything depends on how the present switch is wired. You must first determine whether the white wire you see in the switch box is a neutral or if it is part of a switch loop.

If it is part of a switch loop the end of the white wire should be marked black in some manner. I say should be because, while this is a code requirement, is frequently not done.

Examine the white wire and tell us what wires are in the switch box.

The combination switch/outlet can be wired in several ways, depending on how you want to use it.

Tell us what is in the switch box.

The white wire is uninterrupted. The feed wire is cut and runs through the switch
On the two screw. That is about it. It looks like I would have to pigtail the white neutral wire
To the silver screw and then join all the neutral wires together

The white wire is uninterrupted. The feed wire is cut and runs through the switch
on the two screw. That is about it. It looks like I would have to pigtail the white neutral wire
to the silver screw and then join all the neutral wires together

First, before you do anything more, Is this switch going to be within 6 feet of the sink or tub? Because if it is, you may have to make this into a 2 gang box so the receptacle is a GFCI, or forget about putting the receptacle there. I've never seen a stack switch GFCI

(edit) but holy smokes look what I found! If sink/tub too close you have to use this.

http://www.westsidewholesale.com/leviton-gfci-smartlockpro-combination-receptacle-with-switch-ivory.html?gdftrk=gdfV23580_a_7c1581_a_7c7215_a_7c 1983556

( I don't do residential, didn't occur to me this thing might exist)




By "uninterrupted" do you mean the neutral is not landed on the existing switch? It is not used? (logical) and is actually two ends wire nutted together?

Do you have a voltmeter? Do this with the switch still hooked up as it always has been, circuit still on, label what you find.
Check to see if you read 120V (or so) between the white and either one of the black wires on the switch with the switch in the Off position.
This will tell you if the white wires are really a neutral or a switch leg. If you read voltage about 110-120V, then the white wires are neutrals and (switch off) the black wire where you can read voltage is the incoming hot wire.
If you turn the switch On, both of the blacks will read voltage to neutral (or to ground) the one that does not stay hot when you put the switch in the Off position is the Switched Leg/Loop.

To wire the combo switch/receptacle on a single strap (like your picture) you can take the black wire that stays hot all the time whether the switch is on or off
And land it under the yellow/brass color screw.

The Switch Leg (black wire, goes on and off when toggling the switch) goes under the Black screw
The White wire pigtial coming from the wirenutted junction of the neutral wires goes on the white/silver screw.



you will see two Yellow/brass screws on this switch, electrically they are the same unless the brass tab you can see between them(usually slotted ) is removed. This is to allow "split wiring" this combo either with another switch leg for switched receptacle from another switch or the switch leg from the switch on top so that switch can turn it on and off.

Very Good. It is not near a tub or sink. Great wiring description

I'm glad you found it helpful (hint hint) that last paragraph looked kind of confusing no matter how I wrote it.

Extremely pleased