PDA

View Full Version : NM-B wire - WOG Wire


mdmaynard
Mar 2, 2007, 01:19 PM
I am going to sound really ignorant here but what is the difference between 14/2 NM-B wire and 14/2 WOG wire? (is WOG without ground?).

tkrussell
Mar 2, 2007, 01:39 PM
#14-2 NB-B is a type of nonmetallic cable commonly called Romex, and is understood to have a third bare wire to act as an equipment ground.

#14-2 WOG would seem to represent only that there are two wires, no ground, but does not describe the type of cable or insulation the cable has.

mdmaynard
Mar 2, 2007, 01:54 PM
I am needing 14/2 wire and while shopping at lowe's I found Romex 14/2 NM-B wire (outter sheath white in color) On the same aisle I found 14/2 WOG wire

I am assuming the 14-2 NM-B wire is what I am needing. This is going to be used to add length in a junction box where two halfs of double wide join.

tkrussell
Mar 2, 2007, 03:08 PM
Ill have to look at that WOG cable next time I am in the store, not sure what it would be good for, but you sure will be safe using the NM-B.

labman
Mar 4, 2007, 07:10 AM
What I remember is that at one time lighting 10' off the floor didn't have to be grounded. That is more likely to be found in a commercial building where its going to be singles in conduit. Sounds to me like along with 2 prong outlets it should be something you have to go to the electrical supply and ask for, not out on the shelf where an unwary DIY could buy it.

tkrussell
Mar 4, 2007, 09:01 AM
Well Labman, since you bring it up, this may be a good place to discuss rules, or more appropriately, the exceptions to rules.

All I can hope is not too many people read this. If so, oh well I will deal with it.

In most cases with certain answers, I give the rule, without mentioning the exceptions, which all are very specific and usually can be found not to be considered.

Better to keep things simple with DIY'ers, not referring to you, mdmaynard, to lead them in the direction of the rule, so to speak and not get into any specific exception for a specific topic, other wise there will need to be much more learning what the exact conditions are and teaching how to apply a certain exception.

Hope this made sense.

Actually the dimension is 8 feet, items above 8 feet, AND not able to be in contact with people, do not need to be grounded, but only if certain conditions are met. If for example, I had a incandescent fixture at 8.5 feet, (note, above 8 feet, and most homes have 8 foot ceilings)and it was fed by an existing two wire cable with no ground, it does not need to be grounded.

Nowadays, most lighting is electric discharge, fluorescent,HID,etc. that MUST be grounded for it's operation, so this exception does not apply.

Regarding the two wire cable, I do know why it is available, (oops I fibbed). There is also an exception to EXTENSIONS to an EXISTING ungrounded circuit. A new outlet can be added to an existing 2 wire no ground circuit. And a NEW 3 wire outlet on a NEW extension can be grounded with a separate grounding conductor( oops I fibbed again), that is connected to a few very specific locations, primarily to the grounding electrode system, or the panel that the two wire circuit begins.

So, my point is there is certain types of materials available to those that know when and how to use them, such as 2 wire cable. Why something like 2 wire no ground cable is made available to DIY'ers, I will never know, as this requires an in depth knowledge of the code and the applicable exceptions and the special conditions that allow the exception. Many electricians do not know about certain exceptions, or when to apply them. I have said in the past, the Code can be your friend, all you need to do is to know HOW to read it AND know how to UNDERSTAND it.

If anyone gets upset about me not telling them about a POSSIBLE exception, oh well, all I have to say is go to the NEC link I provide and start reading and understanding the Code, as it is all there in black and white.

As most posters here are DIY'ers and most are just trying to do a small project, and have no interest in getting in too deep with the topic,I feel it is better to give the rule, and stick with it, keeping things simple, without getting into any possible exception, which most would not apply anyway.

For those few, and there have been a few lately, that actually read and refer to code sections, I may delve in a bit deeper to bring up an exception that may apply, but only after I get specific answers to qualifying questions I ask.

Having had the opportunity to work in several difficult buildings or come across difficult situations, (I actually did work in a mansion that General Washington had slept, and the original finishes were sacred to the historical society) knowing how to use the code to one's advantage can be like a bag of tricks up one's sleeve.

nmwirez
Mar 4, 2007, 09:18 AM
What I remember is that at one time lighting 10' off the floor didn't have to be grounded. That is more likely to be found in a commercial building where its going to be singles in conduit. Sounds to me like along with 2 prong outlets it should be something you have to go to the electrical supply and ask for, not out on the shelf where an unwary DIY could buy it.

Hi labman,
It's too bad this is not a perfect electrical world we live in, the big box stores still have to sell product and they do not care. Just look in HD's Wiring 1-2-3 book pictures and you will see a few code violations in there. The DIYers will not ever notice and do not know the difference between UF and NM anyway. Southwire still cranks out NM W/O gnd just for the bucks, they do not care either. The stock investors do...

The manufacturers get code changes for their profit margin agenda. Take a look a what will happen in the 2008 NEC requirements when AFCI's ($34)will be required for the whole house branch circuits and all receptacles will have to be childproof($8), and rough-in boxes have to have roto zip protection all per each outlet($5). This is utter nonsense for trying to idiot-proof the world. Still accidents will continue to happen regardless of what precautions of selling safe products will bring. Thanks for the honest thought though, nm:D

nmwirez
Mar 4, 2007, 09:37 AM
I am needing 14/2 wire and while shopping at lowe's I found Romex 14/2 NM-B wire (outter sheath white in color) On the same aisle I found 14/2 WOG wire

I am assuming the 14-2 NM-B wire is what i am needing. This is going to be used to add length in a junction box where two halfs of double wide join.

Md, Is this is for wiring on the underside of the doublewide project you posted that I answered earlier? UF is needed instead of NM if the location is a wet area outside wiring and not enclosed. Nm

labman
Mar 4, 2007, 03:04 PM
I see the hazard of installing a 3 prong outlet without grounding it. Are you required to use WOG for extending ungrounded circuits or just allowed to? I am afraid the house my daughter bought was wired up with no grounds back when it was built. The outlets are all 2 prong.

I am glad we all seem to agree on not making specialized materials too easy to buy and misuse.

nmwirez
Mar 4, 2007, 03:39 PM
I see the hazard of installing a 3 prong outlet without grounding it. Are you required to use WOG for extending ungrounded circuits or just allowed to? I am afraid the house my daughter bought was wired up with no grounds back when it was built. The outlets are all 2 prong.

I am glad we all seem to agree on not making specialized materials too easy to buy and misuse.

Hi labman,

You might take a look a the Electrical & Lighting 'Old Work/New Code' reply #4 that may answer some of what you mention here. Nm Let me know what you think.

mdmaynard
Mar 4, 2007, 10:43 PM
Thanks for the response.

No this was not for the underside or mobile, this was connecting a couple sockets that had been spliced so many times by previous owners I wanted to clean it up a bit and just have one/two splices. (Accesible).

I apprecite all help. I have finished wiring project, including running service wire from meter to panel in house (switching 100amp box for a 200amp box), found where two sections (marriage line) connected. Cleaned up some old splices that had been done and redone so many times it was dangerous. Looks better now, and I switched a ceiling fan/light to a chandalier.

I could not have done it without out this forum and the great group of folks. Thanks to all.

Next wiring project is to switch out the gas dryer, gas cook stove, and gas hot water tank for electric. That will be next month.

THanks again to each of you

nmwirez
Mar 4, 2007, 11:50 PM
You are welcome...