I turn the key and the car cranks but won't start. I bought the car used and don't know when it was replaced but it looks fairly decent (no cracks or scuffs). The car worked one day and wouldn't start the next day.

If the Check Engine Light consistently comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then the problem is likely distributor related. Replacing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil usually solves the problem. Apply silicone heat transfer compound to the back of the new ICM.

Well I get spark with the spark plugs. I pulled the wires and had my friend crank the engine and I did end up getting a spark. Could it still be the distributor?

Yes. The ICM may be firing but not when the ECM wants it to. I recommend replacing ICMs and coils every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. These are two of the most problematic components on Hondas of this generation. If the problem persists, install the new ICM and coil in a genuine Honda distributor housing--all others are suspect. Sometimes, the internal distributor sensors (CKP, TDC, and CYL) fail and this affects timing. Most Honda distributors only last 50,000 to 100,000 miles.

Is there any way to test these parts? Im on a college budget and to replace both would be like $200+. The car has roughly 205k miles on it so it is likely its one of these.

Bench testing these components is a total waste of time. It doesn't come close to simulating the intense heat these parts are subjected to. I would shop for the best price and warranty you can find and replace them.

Fuel pressure may be a good test and can't hurt, TXGreaseMonkey has a sticky for troubleshooting the Hondas, excellent reading.

If you can hear the fuel pump run, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then the fuel pump is likely fine.

It's imperative, however, that the CEL comes on and goes off normally; otherwise, you will be wasting your time replacing the ICM and coil.

http://www.redlinemotive.com/store/replacement/wizard.asp?year=1995&make=HO&model=CVC-DX2-001&category=F&part=Ignition+Distributor

Is this the part I need then?

You I went out again and as soon as the pump turns off the cel shuts off like normal again.

That would be great, if it were a genuine Honda product. Instead, it's an aftermarket distributor and over 50% of them have not worked at AMHD. The remaining ones have not been reliable.

The easiest, but most expensive solution, is to install a complete genuine Honda distributor. The next best thing would be to install an aftermarket ICM and coil in a genuine Honda distributor housing and save the money. Aftermarket ICMs and coils have been fine.

Ok, my only concern is how difficult will it be to get inside the housing? Given it has 200,000 miles... screws don't like to come out and are often corroded. Will that be a big issue for me if I just replace the coil and icm?

I often use this outfit for Honda parts. Their prices are 20 to 25% less than your local Honda dealer. Plug in your VIN see what you think:

Genuine Honda Parts - Discount OEM Honda Auto Parts (http://www.collegehillshondaparts.com/)

If you want to go super budget, try and get away with buying and installing an aftermarket ICM--they are often the culprit. Then, if it still doesn't start, replace the coil. Should it still not work, install those parts in a genuine Honda distributor housing.

I don't think you will have a problem with corrosion. Just use a quality #2 Phillips head screwdriver to remove the rotor bolt and ICM heat sink. This is the route I would go, since it may save you a lot of money if only the ICM or coil is bad.

Just tested the ICM and it passed and I tested the ignition coil and it read 15.75ohms on the ohms reader. So since both of those are fine... why won't it start?

Once again, read what I already gave you.