This question is in regards to my previous question posted on 2-6-12 (1993 honda accord 10th anniversary edition-problem with EMC and or Fuel problem). I don't know what to do to find out exactly what's wrong with my car without spending thousand of dollars and putting different expensive parts on it that still may not fix the problem, because replacing the distributor itself is costly and a fuel pump(dropping the tank) to replace it is just as expensive, way over $1000.00 to replace both parts.The shops that I've called say that they can put a scanner on this car to find the problem but I know that's not true thanks to TxGreaseMonkey for doing this research for me. Now since getting the car back from the mechanic's shop a week ago with the same problem that it had as when I took it to him for and his diagnosis was bad EMC,(saying that he put a scanner on the car and it gave him a code o) it needs to be replaced and the he will be able to find out what the problem is and fix it. Now I know that he could not have used a scanner on this car and he lied to me and charged me for this service. A new EMC is aprox $4oo.00 plus labor (spending over $500.00) for something that I probably don't need and will not fix my problems with the car. Since then(a week ago from bringing the car home) I've been starting up the car and letting it run for aprox.45 minutes to an hour(not driving it) and the CEL does not come on and it maintains good idle,but if I cut off the engine and then restart the car a few times, it will start every time but struggles to maintain power (like it is dying out) and if I give it gas (excelerate) for a while it seems to correct itself and maintain idle and power. So I decided to drive it around the block yesterday (stopping and going) for aprox. 5 minutes (1.3 miles) and then (The CEL came on) and it starting acting like it wanted to die out, and upon putting it in park and giving it gas for a while, and then in drive, it regained idle and I was able to drive it home. I cut the car off, waited a minute, resarted it ( the CEL) did not come back on, and it felt like it wanted to stop right away, then I excelerated and it struggled to stay on, and then it started to idle correctly, I let it idle for 3 minutes and cut off the car. I called th mechanic shop and was told that he forgot to tell me that my distributor was leaking somewhat but I need a new EMC to determine what is really wrong with the car. My guestions to you are: How can a distributor leak, and what is it leaking, and could this cause the problems that I am having with my car or does it seem like a combination of things? Don't know how to approach this problem at this point. I'm a woman with little knowledge of a vehicle and I feel like I'm about to be taken advantage of. Your knowledge has already helped me a great deal in just a few posts that I've sent to you. Please help.

Solution #1

Since the Check Engine Light comes on and goes out normally, when you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), it sounds like you only need a new genuine Honda distributor. Most Honda distributors last 50,000 to 100,000 miles--your's has lasted much longer than usual. Call College Hills Honda Parts (888-244-6632), order the correct complete distributor, and then have it installed by a trusted mechanic. Here's their website:

Genuine Honda Parts - Discount OEM Honda Auto Parts (http://www.collegehillshondaparts.com/)

Their prices are 20 to 25% less than your local Honda dealer. I've used them many times. This should solve your problem. I believe your ECM (computer) is fine and I don't believe you Honda has a fuel problem, since the engine runs. Alternatively, just take it to your local Honda dealer and have them install a new distributor.

Solution #2

You may be able to get along by just installing a new Ignition Control Module (ICM), which is located inside the distributor. It costs $49.99 at AutoZone. Your coil is external of the distributor, which I would replace ($69.99). The oil leak may be nothing more than a deteriorated O-ring, which can be replaced. Here's how:

Ignition Control Module (ICM or Igniter) and Coil Replacement

Bench testing ICMs and coils is virtually useless. It does not come close to simulating the extreme heat that often causes these components to fail. I recommend replacing these critical and problematic components every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

1. Disconnect negative battery cable, recording any radio codes first.

2. Remove hex-head machine screws (3), securing distributor cap to housing, using an 8mm nut driver.

3. Move distributor cap and wires off to the side.

4. Remove machine screw securing rotor to shaft, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver. A 1/4-inch drive magnetic bit holder (e.g. Wiha 52650) with a #2 Phillips head bit works really well. It may be necessary to "hit" the starter once or twice, in order to rotate rotor for access to mounting screw.

5. Remove rotor and leak cover.

6. Unfasten ICM wires, remove coil mounting screws (on distributors with a coil inside), and set coil aside. Trick: Removing the coil first, on distributors with a coil inside, improves access to the ICM.

7. Remove both screws securing heat sink to housing, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver.

8. Remove heat sink from distributor and unfasten both screws mounting ICM to heat sink, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver.

9. Clean connections with #240 abrasive cloth or steel wool.

10. Coat the back of the new ICM with a thin, even coat of silicone heat transfer compound. This special silicone grease increases heat transfer to the heat sink. Failure to apply silicone heat transfer compound will cause the ICM to quickly fail. Arctic Silver 5 is recommended by an AMHD member, which is available at Radio Shack.

If the ICM and the heat sink are simply placed together, the small air gaps (insulator) that naturally exist between them will inhibit heat transfer. By filling these gaps, the compound allows a direct path through which heat can travel. Failure to apply this grease is one reason why some Hondas suddenly die. Attention to detail makes a big difference with modern day electronics.

11. Mount ICM to heat sink and reinstall ICM, ICM terminal wires, coil, coil wires, leak cover, rotor, and distributor cap. Ensure female ICM connectors fit snugly--crimp with pliers, if necessary.


Conceptually, the ICM is a large output transistor (switch) controlling current through the primary coil. ICMs replace points and condenser in older vehicles. In the primary coil, current builds to 5 to 12 amps, generating lots of heat (due to inductance). Then, the ECM controls when the ICM "switches off" current to the primary coil, causing amperage to go to zero. When this happens, 12 to 14 volts in the primary coil is "stepped-up" to 30,000 volts in the secondary coil. This process creates a "type" of alternating current required for the coil (step-up transformer) to work. In a properly working ICM, timing is precisely when needed to fire each spark plug.

Bottom Line: ICMs and coils take a beating.

Long term, Solution #1 is superior, since distributor housings only last so long and your's is likely on borrowed time. If Solution #2 doesn't solve the problem, but I think it will, install the new ICM in a new Genuine Honda distributor housing (all others are suspect). This way, you shouldn't waste any money.

P.S. I'm not impressed with your current mechanic--you would be better off going to Honda.