Well, my truck will start and but doesn't run very good I can have it in park or neutral and it runs good and u can rev it up but when u put it in reverse or drive it will start nocking and won't go past 1000 rmps I can walk faster and if u put it back in park it clears out and runs fine... any suggestions?

. Check for codes.

. Replace the under hood and under frame fuel filters, if they have not been changed in the last 15,000 miles. Purge the system of all water.

. Ensure the oil level is up to the Full Line and that the oil and filter have been changed in the last 5,000 miles.

. Replace the air filter, if it hasn't been changed in 15,000 miles.

. Check injectors.

. Check/replace the Variable Speed Sensor (VSS), which may be located in the differential. A failing VSS can cause all sorts of performance problems. It can trigger the MIL light and ABS lights to come on. It is difficult for many techs to diagnose, especially if they don't live in truck country.

. Test engine compression, oil pressure, and fuel pressure, if the problem persists.

I suspect water in the fuel system, at this point. Common winter problem.

I have a 1995 f 250 powerstroke and when we were pulling a hill with a horse trailer it seemed like it was overheating and then it seemed like it was shifting hard. When we came to a stop it was smoking and appeared to have transmission fluid underneath. We added a bit of transmission fluid and it doesn't do it when you don't have a load.
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cassiesinclair, because of the summer heat in Texas, transmission boilovers are common. On all trucks I service, I drop and clean the pan and magnet, change the filter, drain the torque converter, and refill with Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF. After that, I have never had a boilover, even when hauling 13 head of cattle to market in 105 degree weather. I also use only full synthetic oil in the engine, differential, and transfer case.