We changed the fuel pump yesterday ; valve cover o-rings, spark plugs, and fuel filter today. When we opened the oil cap and cranked it there was movement. No start yet

If the CEL comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then replacing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil usually solves the problem--this is providing you can hear the fuel pump run during this 2 second interval.

Since you replaced the fuel pump, I suspect the CEL stays on and the fuel pump does not run, when you turn the ignition switch to Position II. If this is the case, your problem is likely a bad ECM.

If the ECM is the "computer" then our previous owner changed it recently. Is there anything else we are missing? The CEL doesn't go out at all and I counted 19 flashes. Automatic transmission something or the other, but would that prevent the car from starting?

Oh & we changed the main relay too

The car originally stopped running while driving it on the interstate

Code 19: Automatic Transmission Lockup Control Valve

Since it stopped running while driving down the interstate, I would replace the ICM and coil inside the distributor. If the engine still doesn't start, install the new ICM and coil in a genuine Honda distributor housing.

We noticed that a couple of the new spark plugs still weren't firing and at least one of the new spark plugs was firing orange. I had already gotten a new distributor from autozone before I read your last answer and I guess you already know that it didn't start with the autozone part. Does the honda housing really make that much of a difference? And can I use the ICM & coil from the one I bought from autozone or does honda sell the whole thing too?

Let me say that over 50% of new aftermarket distributors for Hondas don't work at AMHD. For reliability and safety, I would definitely buy a genuine Honda distributor housing and install an aftermarket ICM and coil, to keep the cost down. If you can afford it, just install a complete genuine Honda distributor. Most of the AutoZone distributors have had to go back. Who wants to risk their life with it dying on you at 70 mph, in the left lane, during rush hour? Yes, the Honda distributor housing makes a huge difference--other manufacturers just don't seem to be able to get the internal sensors right.

Is there any possible way that the timing is off, or that the timing belt broke on us? I'm just scared to buy another $200-$400 part and it still not start. I don't think autozone will take the $190 one back that I bought from them. I guess I should have tried replacing just the ICM & coil for around $100 & not the whole distributor from them. Do you think there's any chance the old distributor we took off would work if we just change the ICM & coil?

I reported that the previous owner told us he changed the ECM but I guess there's a chance he didn't. The ECM was your first response so is there a "test" to run on an ECM to see if it is good/bad?

Your saying there is no movement, meaning that the cam isn't turning? Ck. The timing belt if you haven't already.

. If the CEL comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then the ECM (computer) is likely fine.

. Ask AutoZone for a new distributor, then, since it's under warranty. Yes, you could have tried installing a new ICM and coil in your old distributor housing.

. Check that the timing belt did not break by removing the oil filler cap, cranking the starter motor, and viewing that the camshaft rotates.

ECM was changed approx 6-7 years ago... how long do they usually last from autozone cause it may be under warranty?

There WAS movement when the oil cap was removed... what was moving in there, I don't know exactly.

The NEW distributor housing from HONDA is over $400 and they must have discovered the need for it.