I can hear what I think is the relay next to the timer clicking once or twice as if to tell the pump to work but it does not. Not a sound. Then the timer quicks working. I have checked the wires that plug into the pump and they show 122 volts so I think power is getting to the motor. I have placed an ohms meter on the terminals located on the motor and it appears the circuits are connected as if wired together. Does this indicate that the motor is bad? Oh, no clogs in the hoses or impellers. Thank you.

What are you talking about? DrTom4444

More than likely your motor is going out on you. However I would have a tech diagnose it correctly and fully. This way you know how much repair money you need. Compare that to putting the repair money into a new purchase with a warranty.

Read the resistance to ground as well as between the terminals. If you have any reading to ground the motor is bad. Your readings between the motor terminals should be about 10-50 ohms or a little more. DrTom4444

Thanks guys. I am getting 13.4 ohms when checking between terminals. I don't know that that indicates a bad motor or not. Any feedback would be appreciated. One other thing I would like to ask. There are two wires that use a single plug that connects into the pump motor. I am getting 122 volts on both wires. When the timer is in the off position I get 122 volts on only one wire. Why would I get 122 volts on both wires when the unit is on? I thought I would get no volts when the unit was off and 122 volts on one wire when the pump should be operating. Does this indicate a bad relay or some timer circuit? Thanks everyone for your input.

What you are reading is good. Only one wire is energized when it is off and two when on, which is how it should be. It takes two wires to complete a circuit. The 13.4 ohms means that if your motor is rated for 9 amps the reading is correct, otherwise you can have a bad motor.( 122/13.4 = 9.1 amps) You could have a locked up motor where the bearings have seized up. If it does not turn then you need to replace the bearings or the motor. If you have sealed ball bearings in the motor you can pull them and replace them for about $10.00 per bearing or less. You just need a bearing puller available at any AC parts house. As long as you have zero to ground your motor should be okay if you just replace the bearings. There is no need to buy a $200 motor when you can spend 1/10 of that. DrTom4444

I had the very same problem as washergoof, I took drtom4444's advice and replaced the drain pump. Still did not work! The old pump read 13 Ohms while the new one I bought read 17 Ohms. I replaced it although the old one is still working.

The actual problem of why the washer won't drain and spin was because of a faulty lid switch. My washer has a double switch on the lid, the smaller switch controls the wash action, the larger controls the Drain/Spin dry action. I bridged the terminals on the larger switch and it worked perfect. Will replace the switch once I get it.

So I am out of pocket for a drain pump I didn't really need to replace. I didn't mind, I also changed the Drive Belt, all seals on the basket and tub, rust treated all the affected areas and repainted the washer. All in all, I did a complete overhaul and the washer looks and works like new

If you want to avoid replacing a good motor use a meter. If it reads 13-17 ohms across the windings and no ground in motor windings, you have a good motor. If the motor uses 1 or 2 capacitors check them out, too. Capacitors go out more often than motors if you catch them before they burn up the motor. Make sure to study the wiring diagrams, too. Looking at a machine in person is the best way. Sorry about the error. One other thing: When checking a motor note the resistance and divide this into the voltage. If you read 13.4 ohms then divide that into 120 to get 8.95 or about 9. Then look at nameplate and find the R.L.A and L.R.A. If the Running Load Amps is 9-10 then your motor is good. If you only have LRA then divide by 5. If the LRA is 45-50 (or close) then it's fine. These are not exact, but if the reading is close then look elsewhere. Remember, some motors have two windings: a start and a run winding. This may help: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/8010163/How%20to%20use%20Test%20Equipment%20Service%20Manu al.pdf