View Full Version : I had no hot water in my bath, after repair, the cold water fitting ruptured
help_flood
Oct 18, 2011, 01:41 PM
No water from bath HOT tap. Plumber fixes it (changes washer), but, immediately afterwards, the elbow push-fit (John Guest Speedfit 2cm, 15mm) of the bath's COLD water pipe-work ruptures and water from COLD copper pipe (2cm, 15 mm) causes home to become extensively flooded.
Age of push-fit: at least 3 years. No other problems with plumbing of bathroom, toilet or kitchen.
How likely is that the flood (cold water pipe) would happen as soon as the plumber finished fixing bath?s hot tap?
Is there a relationship between the tap having no hot water and the cold water pipe causing the flood? What about maintenance?
I'm trying to get expert plumbing advice from those who understand much more than me about plumbing.
speedball1
Oct 18, 2011, 02:14 PM
By the term "push fitting" Do you mean compression fitting? There's no doubt in my mind that in repairing the hot side that he disturbed the compression fitting on the cold side and water pressure forced the elbo out causing your flood. However, Proving it is another matter. Let me ask, are these "push fittings" out in plain sight or were they in the wall? What is it that you wish to do?
This couldn't have been a plumber that did the original installation. We solder in our connections to prevent just such a flood from happening. However, if that would have my job I would have snugged the fittings down tight just to be on the safe side Or I woud have asked you if you wanted me to remove the fittings and solder the valve in correctly. And your thoughts? Tom
help_flood
Oct 18, 2011, 04:53 PM
Yes, by push fitting I do mean compression fitting. The push fittings are in plain sight, just beneath the bath, behind the side panel.
I wish the insurance would accept that there was some sort of negligence, as you have suggested, and help me towards the material damage caused, instead of trying to blame it on an act of God.
You are right when you say this could not have been a plumber that did the original installation. But, how did you know that? It is amazing that you know so much!
Also, I do wish the plumber had checked the fittings and replaced them for the solder ones you suggested. I have just searched the internet, there it says that solder copper fittings are likely to last a life long, unlikely push-fittings. Is that right?
I checked your profile and noticed that you have retired after working all your life as a plumber. During the last 5 years you worked as a trouble shooter for a large company, taking on all your company's complaints. Thus, I value your answer even more.
speedball1
Oct 18, 2011, 05:15 PM
You are right when you say this could not have been a plumber that did the original installation. But, how did you know that? It is amazing that you know so much!
No mystery here! No plumber worth his salt would install a tub/shower valve with compression fittings and if the fittings were hidden behind a wall, as I think they were, this would be a illegal installation. Good luck with the insurance company. Fell free to use any of my posts if you think they'll help, Good luck, Tom
mygirlsdad77
Oct 18, 2011, 05:42 PM
Push fit fitting are completely different than compression fittings. Push fit fitting are allowed in many areas in concealed spaces(behind sheetrock). However, I would never install, or suggest installing either type fitting in a concealed space. But if the plumber did use push fits, he was most likely within the law, just didn't use good plumbing practice in my opinion.
help_flood
Oct 21, 2011, 02:16 PM
If it is possible to turn a bath hot water tap on (I mean, if the tap is not jammed), why wouldn't it have water? Would the cause be more likely to be an old washer or be the pipe work beneath the bath?
The hot water pipe had not water since SEPTEMBER and it was connected to the boiler via pipes carrying hot water. The boiler overflow pipe had been leaking since OCTOBER.
Soon, after the plumber fixed the hot water tap, the COLD water pipe (which runs ALONGSIDE the HOT water pipe beneath the bath) caused home to flood.
The plumber had been asked to also check the pipe work beneath the bath.
speedball1
Oct 21, 2011, 02:57 PM
More details please. Singled handle or two knobs? Brand of faucet? How old? What's this faucet on? Back to you, Tom
help_flood
Oct 21, 2011, 04:39 PM
Sorry, I don't know the brand. Type of tap: single handle (double spout tap), around 3 years old and not expensive.
speedball1
Oct 22, 2011, 06:52 AM
I've seen double handles single spout but never a single handle double spout, Please explain. Tom
help_flood
Oct 22, 2011, 08:22 AM
I meant that the hot water tap was single handle. The bath had 2 completely separate taps (not expensive ones and similar to wash basin taps), one was for hot water and one for cold water (I thought that was what double spout tap meant, but now I know it is not).
Would a tap have no water because of a washer or because of other reasons, such as being old, having scale, problems with the hot water pipe work? Note that the hot water tunk (which I call boiler) overflow pipe was leaking.
Many thanks for your help.