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jlisenbe
Oct 4, 2011, 06:28 PM
I am installing new siding on my house. While the exterior is open, I'm trying to address a few electrical problems. One concerns a dead receptacle. It has been that way since we bought the house. The situation is as follows. Hot wire goes to the light switch box. In that box, there is the usual light switch hookup (black to black, both whites to switch). However, the previous owner wanted to run power to a recptacle below, so he also made the box a junction to tie into the cable going to the receptacle. He then later decided to simply disconnect that wire. We have been puzzled for years why the receptacle was dead until taking off the old siding and being able to see this. So I now have two problems. 1. I would like to wire the dead receptacle. 2. The wire leaving the switch box to the ceiling light is about 1" too short. It can be made to work, but it's really tough. I'd like to simply put in a junction box. Power goes to the juncion, and then a line would go to the switch and another line to the outlet. If I put the junction box on the wall toward the ceiling, above the light switch, I would be able to splice an extension onto the line going to the ceiling light as well. All of this would be in one box. I'd let it open out of the wall like a switch box and simply put a cover over it. Does that sound reasonable?

hkstroud
Oct 4, 2011, 07:28 PM
A couple of questions please.


In that box, there is the usual light switch hookup (black to black, both whites to switch).

That is not correct wiring. Should be black hot to one switch terminal, black to light to other switch terminal. The two whites wire nutted together.


The wire leaving the switch box to the ceiling light is about 1" too short.

You said one inch. Do you really mean one inch?

I take it that by removing the siding, you have exposed the wall with the wiring to the light in the siding. What is above the ceiling, attic or another room?

jlisenbe
Oct 5, 2011, 03:07 AM
Two story house, so getting to the ceiling light would be a major problem as it is first story.

After I posted, I realized I had the switch wiring backwards, though that is actually how it was done in this case.

Yes, I just need an inch or two. I guess I can get by with the way it is, but it would nice to have a little slack. It would be pulled pretty tight as it is now.

My main concern is trying to get three sets of wire in a box with the switch in it. Awfully cramped in there. While I have the siding off, this is the time to make changes if I'm ever going to.

Thanks for the help.

hkstroud
Oct 5, 2011, 05:29 AM
OK, but I see no reason to reroute the wiring. You could put a box in the wall above the switch and replace the wiring to the switch.
Perfectly legal but might make people wonder why it's there.

With the siding removed check the wiring running down the stud to see if there is any slack. If wiring runs parallel to the ceiling joist it might be stapled tight. If it runs perpendicular to the joist, I'd bet you can get a couple inches from there.

If you have enough wire to connect the switch now, another inch or so should make fairly reasonable to work with. I think I would just move the switch box up a inch tor two.

If you have trouble working in the present switch box, you must have an old small metal box. Suggest replacing with a new deep or extra deep plastic box. I think think the extra deep box is about 21 cubic inches which permits about 9 wires. If you look hard enough you can probably find a switch box with side box that allow even more wires.

If you can't get any more length from the wires to the ceiling and don't want to move the box up, add a couple pigtails. Do that first and push the connections back up in the box, never to be bother again. Then make the rest of the connections.

Six wires with a switch in a deep box should be easy.

PS
If the power cable comes up from below, could you take power to the outlet, then to the switch? That would reduce the number of wires in the switch box.

jlisenbe
Oct 5, 2011, 07:17 AM
The power cable is too short to go to the receptacle.

I like the pigtail idea. I didn't realize that was code. I am assuming the splice must be made in the junction box and not outside of it. Correct? Something like this?

how to use electrical pigtail connector - Bing Images (http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=how+to+use+electrical+pigtail+connector&view=detail&id=7ECA139F10821598129D17A769096C4F839E814F&first=0&FORM=IDFRIR)


I kind of prefer to solder/tape splices rather than use the wire nuts. I am assuming that is still acceptable.

hkstroud
Oct 5, 2011, 03:45 PM
Correct on the pigtails, as long as they are made inside the box. Not sure about the soldering. Code says wires will be mechanically joined together and insulated to the equivalent on the wire insulation. Does not specifically require wire nuts.

Adding a short pieces of wire only means two more wire nuts taking up space. What size is the box? What size is wire, 14 or 12 gauge?

jlisenbe
Oct 5, 2011, 03:57 PM
It's all 12 gauge.

I'm going to go with your idea. The pigtails will make a lot of difference.

The box is 3.75 by 2.75 by 2.25.

Guess I'll just use wire nuts. No problem.

Thanks for the help!

jlisenbe
Oct 6, 2011, 05:52 PM
Well, just go through. Did it just as you suggested. The deeper box and using the pigtails made a lot of difference. The wire going to the light was so short that I actually did the wire twisting for the pigtails outside the box, then passed the splice through and put the wire nut on inside the box. I felt I'd never be able to get my hands in the box to hold the wired enough to get the twist done in the box. Still, it works great. Learned something from this one. Many thanks. I'd leave a positive comment, but it won't let me.