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View Full Version : 1990 civic si hatch cranks but no fire


dirty_fingers
Sep 26, 2011, 01:21 PM
OK, I found the k test in a previous post, performed the test and have 5v on the white wire and the yel/red wire. The green/white shows ground so computer seems to test OK. Haynes book says there should be continuity from the dist. Sensor wires to ground, there is none on any of the 6 pins tested in the connector. White wire from ICM to ECM reads resistance to ground. Seems like time for a new dizzy?

paraclete
Sep 26, 2011, 07:05 PM
Might be time for a new coil

dirty_fingers
Sep 26, 2011, 07:17 PM
Im on my second coil now, a dizzy is twice the price of a coil but will end the mystery... I hope!

paraclete
Sep 26, 2011, 07:51 PM
Sounds like you have something open circuit there

dirty_fingers
Sep 26, 2011, 08:14 PM
Ive got the engine harness opened up, tested wires for continuity, some of the sensor wires are giving resistance readings and seem to be a mess with splices etc, I assume the blue tape on these is factory, its my first Honda so pretty much working in the dark! Is this normal? Thanks for suggestions!

TxGreaseMonkey
Sep 27, 2011, 06:43 AM
Since it pasts the K-Test, and you have already replaced the ICM and coil, I would buy a new genuine Honda distributor housing (no substitutes) and install the new ICM and coil. That should solve the problem.

dirty_fingers
Sep 27, 2011, 07:21 AM
I was hoping to find you here TX, you have been instrumental in helping others with similar problems and I like your philosophy of teaching while learning yourself, makes good sense!
I first bought a coil, because I have 12v to the coil and the negative side shows a pulse when cranking using a test light, probably not the best thing to test with but it showed sign of being interupted. The coil didn't fix it so tested wiring to ignitor as per Haynes manual, book says if the wires test good, replace the ignitor, so I did, no help! The new coil looked terrible right out of the box and has a long crack in the side of it, of course there's no returning the coil after mounting it. I know at least one of the sensors inside the distributor is working, with dizzy off the motor and key on, I hear injectors ticking as I spin the dizzy shaft, at 90 deg intervals I get a tick from injector. I can get a new complete dizzy online for $125, another new coil is $65, wish I could reliably test my coil. Is there something Im not aware of here? Thanks!

TxGreaseMonkey
Sep 27, 2011, 08:29 AM
Let me just say that over 50% of new aftermarket distributors for Hondas at AMHD don't work. The reliability and performance of the rest are suspect. Personally, I only install genuine Honda distributor housings. It's fine to use aftermarket ICMs and coils, in order to keep the cost down. Before going this route, however, I would install a known-good coil and see if it solves the problem. New coils shouldn't have cracks down the side of their case--I'd try returning it.

dirty_fingers
Sep 27, 2011, 11:04 AM
I'll take that advice on the distributor housing... thanks. I have a friend with a 98 civic, LX I think, would his coil be compatible to test with? Is there a difference between, say, the tc-05 and tc-07 coils? Id like to put mine in his car and test it... thanks again... Will

TxGreaseMonkey
Sep 27, 2011, 01:35 PM
I'm not sure what the differences are, even though I'm sure there are some. Have you tried returning your new coil?

dirty_fingers
Sep 27, 2011, 01:57 PM
Its raining here, Im on foot these days and it's a looong walk! I will try asap... dealing with Adv Auto. I have a td-02u distributor with a tc-07 coil. It'll be a couple days till I can get back on this, unless there is something you know of I can test while waiting for parts?
Does the fact that there's a pulse at the coil with test light, and 12v to it, positively condemn the coil?

TxGreaseMonkey
Sep 27, 2011, 04:55 PM
The reality is that bench testing ICMs and coils is virtually useless, since it does not simulate the heat build-up in real life. Start with a new ICM and coil. If there's still no spark or the engine does not run properly, install those components in a new genuine Honda distributor housing. It should not be difficult to get it running perfectly again.

dirty_fingers
Sep 27, 2011, 06:48 PM
Ive got a new OEM housing coming, it had to be ordered. Together with my new ICM, cap, and coil it SHOULD fix my problem. I'll post the results when I get er done, it'll likely be a few days.
Thanks for reassurance...

dirty_fingers
Oct 4, 2011, 06:24 PM
Hey Tx... the new distributor housing fixed the no fire problem, no codes, all seems to be well! It didn't fire right up though, staring at the dash wondering what the heck is the matter with this thing, noticed some dewfus siphoned my gas! Once fuel got to the injectors it fired right up and runs sweetly.

Many thanks for the help!

TxGreaseMonkey
Oct 4, 2011, 06:28 PM
Nice job, dirty_fingers.