Just replaced the clutch over the weekend, adjusted the pedal; everything was fine for the test drive. I went to drive it later only to break down on the side of the road. I don't know THAT much about cars, but I'm also not stupid when it comes to it.
Just for info; My tachometer was jumping all over the place and would go all the way up to 6k rpms, and not just when I was giving it gas. Mind you, the RPMs were going up, but my engine WAS NOT REVING.

I was stopped at a red light, accelerated in 1st, and all the sudden my engine died. No power steering, nothing from the gas pedal, brakes started tightening. Like I killed the car, but I didn't. Go to crank it, and it tries to start it, but it won't fully turn over.

I spoke with a mechanic today to see if what I'm on the right track but they wouldn't give me that much info. I think it could be one a few things; Simple loose ground, only I don't know where all of them are (was told 6 of them). The ignition coil. Or the ignitor in the distributor.

Now I haven't had the chance to take off my spark plug covers and see if it is even sparking. I haven't been able to do much of anything to it since it broke down last night, as it was too dark to work on.

Sorry for the essay of a question, just trying to give a detailed view. Thanks for the help!

Replacing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) should solve the problem. Be sure to apply silicone heat transfer compound to the back of the new ICM.

Any chance this could just be a loose ground issue? Or based on what I said you're pretty confident that should solve the problem?

It's the ICM, not a loose ground. The BLU wire from the ICM goes directly to the tach--hence, the weird readings when the ICM is failing (dead give away).

You should be able to replace the ICM, located inside the distributor, yourself in 45 minutes or less. Use a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver tip from a bit driver set.

Will do. Just to let you know, this is a new problem since I've changed my clutch; I don't know if this makes any difference. Thank you for getting back to me so quickly, too!

The problem is unrelated to the clutch. ICMs should be replaced every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

Sorry for all the question, trying to learn more. Is this a problem the is common to show.up.right after replacing the clutch or did we do something while the distributor was removed to do the clutch?

Common problem on all cars of this generation. It just happened.

As of right now I cannot afford both parts as most of my paycheck went to my clutch and misc. The ICM is cheaper than the coil, would is negatively affect my car to JUST replace the ICM until I can afford the coil? Or would the coil be a better guess to what is affecting my car.

At this point, I think you only need to replace the ICM.

So, after about half hour of messing with it, I come up with no luck. Replaced the ICM, put compound on the back of it. Still cranks but doesn't turn over. Now my check engine light is on as well. Comes on after I start cranking it. I'm very frustrated and broke, with still no car. I'm just not sure what to do now!

Check for codes by jumping the Service Check Connector.

Okay, sorry for the delay; could not afford to take time off work to do anything. I just jumped my service connector and checked my codes: 4 short flashes is all. Then a short pause then 4 more flashes, etc. More so like it's just replaying the 4 flashes.

Just what I expected:

Code 4: Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP)

Since the ICM didn't solve the problem, the next step is to replace the distributor housing (genuine Honda only). This has been confirmed by the Code 4, which indicates the distributor housing's internal Crankshaft Position Sensor is bad. This sensor is not serviceable and the whole housing needs to be replaced. Over 50% of new aftermarket distributors for Hondas haven't worked at AMHD. Install your new ICM and coil in the new housing and you should be all set.

That's what I got when I looked it up as well. If I buy one directly from honda, my old distributor cap would be usable for this one? And it doesn't come with the ICM or Coils? I was looking at this one: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product__3850234-P_218_R%7CGRPTUNEAMS_1582579817___

Mostly due to price, but I cannot tell what other parts I would need to buy for it. Honda quoted me just for the distributor housing 188+tax, so you can see why I'd like to save a little money.


Another big question of mine is, how would I know how to properly align my distributor?

Yes. Buy the $188 distributor housing from Honda and install your own ICM, coil, and distributor cap.

Check prices at College Hills Honda:

Genuine Honda Parts - Wholesale OEM Parts (http://www.collegehillshondaparts.com/)

After all of this bs, after I had bought a new alternator and was going to put it in, we noticed the 8-p connector was not 'clicked' in. Put a new rotor on anyway, new distributor cap, new spark plugs. Started right up. Took it for a 35 mile drive and not once did the tach jump or feel any signs of anything going wrong. I'm very excited, yet feel like an idiot. Get to take the distributor back though since I never even opened it.

Tomorrows project since I saved so much money today;
Replace passenger side CV axle. Ever hear of having to have it in neutral to pop it off?
Maybe slave cylinder since it does have small tear, although no leak.
Master cylinder after I research more about it and what it does if going bad.
Flush radiator, top off all fluids, check AC. (I read that my A/C would not work if my refrigerant levels weren't right?


Thanks so much for all the help, the quick responses, and thorough answers. I've really enjoyed having you help me and would love some more if you're up for it!

"After all of this bs, after I had bought a new alternator....."

Not alernator, I meant distributor. Long day, haha.