jeff65
Jul 18, 2011, 06:39 AM
I've been reading the question "16hp Briggs & Stratton runs & then sputters & then dies" posted by "Nick" to John C. Bridgerson January 19, 2011 and a follow up post "new thread for 16hp Briggs & Stratton Surging & dying", again posted by "Nick" to John C. Bridgerson January 21, 2011 on "allexperts"
I am experiencing the same problem with my John Deere Sabre: engine starts, runs for 5-10 minutes. sputters, dies. I Can immediately restart the engine, but it dies after just a handful of seconds. Occasionally I can start it a third time, but again only for a matter of seconds - then it will crank but not turn over until cooled.
I've tried to run the unit with a loose (and removed) gas cap, I've cleared cooling fins, and added oil to check for vapor lock. My understanding the muffler on this engine has no screen to check for blockage. The carb was replaced last year(July 19 2010); the carb solenoid functions - though it is "hot" (but not burning)to the touch when engine shuts down. I've changed the spark plug and fuel.
I have purchased, but not installed the new coil yet. Is there anything left to check BEFORE replacing the ignition coil? The B&S site says to check the resistance with a multi meter by attaching it's lead "to the spark plug terminal of the high tension lead and another to the lamination stack (ground)" this resistance should be between 2500 and 5000 ohms. An infinite reading indicates an internal open circuit - replace the coil; if infinite and engine runs there is an internal break in the lead, poor connection to the plug, improper mating of the lead to the coil. Lastly, that if resistance is much lower than 2500 there is an internal short and to replace the coil. My multi-meter reads 9000 ohms, what does that indicate?
Thank you!
Ps, today engine will run for 5-10 seconds then will not restart. I do have spark when attempting the restarts after the engine shut down.
I am experiencing the same problem with my John Deere Sabre: engine starts, runs for 5-10 minutes. sputters, dies. I Can immediately restart the engine, but it dies after just a handful of seconds. Occasionally I can start it a third time, but again only for a matter of seconds - then it will crank but not turn over until cooled.
I've tried to run the unit with a loose (and removed) gas cap, I've cleared cooling fins, and added oil to check for vapor lock. My understanding the muffler on this engine has no screen to check for blockage. The carb was replaced last year(July 19 2010); the carb solenoid functions - though it is "hot" (but not burning)to the touch when engine shuts down. I've changed the spark plug and fuel.
I have purchased, but not installed the new coil yet. Is there anything left to check BEFORE replacing the ignition coil? The B&S site says to check the resistance with a multi meter by attaching it's lead "to the spark plug terminal of the high tension lead and another to the lamination stack (ground)" this resistance should be between 2500 and 5000 ohms. An infinite reading indicates an internal open circuit - replace the coil; if infinite and engine runs there is an internal break in the lead, poor connection to the plug, improper mating of the lead to the coil. Lastly, that if resistance is much lower than 2500 there is an internal short and to replace the coil. My multi-meter reads 9000 ohms, what does that indicate?
Thank you!
Ps, today engine will run for 5-10 seconds then will not restart. I do have spark when attempting the restarts after the engine shut down.