When I hit the gas it bogs down. When I let off the gas and rpms go down it will buck forward a bit then idle all the way down and eventually stall. Sputters when restarting it but starts better from neutral. It sounds/feels like something is clogged.
Started soon after getting gas. So far I've change the plugs, fuel filter, removed air filter and checked gas for water. Fuel pressures seems good. So should the next step be fuel pump? Any suggestions?

Replace igniter and coil.

Would it be starting at all if these two things were bad?

Sure, it might start but then the fun begins. If you don't want to spend the money, try just replacing the ICM. They should be replaced every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

Replaced the coil today, but no luck. I plan to get a whole distributor from the junk yard tomorrow. I'll definitely keep you posted.

I would've tried the ICM first. There's no guarantee the distributor from salvage will be any good.

Ok, I'll do that first thing. Think they will let me return the coil?

Probably. Be sure to apply heat transfer compound to the back of the new ICM or it won't last long.

So I bought a new distributor today and when I was taking the old one of just decided to remove the ICM and took it to Auto Zone and tested good. So I replaced the rotor which looked like it needed it along with the distributor cap which had oil sided and looked pretty rough. I did not replace the distributor because it was expensive and I thought I should asked you what next?

Here is a link to a video of my car maybe you can hear it.

Ki2H9aq8Xis

Here is running list of replaced or checked parts
Air Filter
Fuel filter
Plugs
Coil
Rotor
Distributor cap

Main Relay was changed in 9/2009

Obviously I meant to say checked gas for water... sheesh
Forgot to mention on the video that ICM test good at AutoZone.
Btw, I did buy the distributor new.

On your video, it appears the Check Engine Light stays on. If so, you need to check for codes stored in the ECM. Here's how:

Service Check Connector (SCC): Reading OBD-I Codes

When the Check Engine Light (CEL) is on, it will be necessary to locate the 2-pin Service Check Connector (SCC) on OBD-I (pre-1996) Hondas. It is normally located under the dash, approximately 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the right kick panel. Take a small screwdriver and carefully pry it from the rubber mount. The other 3-pin connector in the rubber mount is the Data Link Connector (DLC), which should be left alone. Jump the SCC with a paper clip, turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), and count the number of times, if any, the CEL flashes. Reference a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) chart to identify the code being displayed. The SCC is also jumped, when an induction timing light is used to check engine timing.

After troubleshooting, turn the ignition switch OFF, remove the jumper wire, and reset the ECM, by removing the BACK UP (7.5 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse box for 10 seconds. Disconnecting the BACK UP fuse cancels preset radio stations and the clock setting; therefore, they will need to be reset.

Here's the skinny on testing ICMs. They can test fine on a Well's Machine and still be bad; however, if they test bad they really are bad. They don't adequately simulate the intense heat in real life, which is the enemy of ICMs.

At AMHD, over 50% of new aftermarket distributors for Hondas don't work. Those that do work tend not to be reliable for long. This is why I only recommend installing a genuine Honda distributor housing, where it's fine to install an aftermarket ICM and coil to keep the cost down. This should solve your problem. The oil you noticed inside the old distributor cap likely indicates the old distributor is bad. Honda distributor housings tend to only last 50,000 to 100,000 miles.

Despite the old ICM testing fine, I would install a new aftermarket ICM in your old distributor. I place very little faith in testing ICMs--I've seen too many test good that didn't work at all. My gut is it may solve your problem. If the problem persists, install your new ICM and coil and a genuine Honda distributor housing.

The light that is staying on is my seat belt light. I did check for codes 2 days ago and none were stored. Called Honda and in total distributor and ignitor would be a total of $496.76 there is no way I can afford that right now especially if I am not positive that they are the culprit. What are the chances of it being anything else. Should I check the fuel pressure? Or anything else for that matter?

Again, I would go to AutoZone and just buy a new ICM and install it. It may very well solve all your problems. I think all of your problems are distributor related.

-------------

If the problem persists, I'm still not saying go to Honda and buy a COMPLETE distributor. I would contact CollegeHillsHondaParts.com and buy just a distributor HOUSING from them. They offer great prices on Honda parts, even though they are a Honda dealer. Call on the phone first. Then, install your AutoZone ICM and coil in it.

I virtually guarantee the problem is with the ICM. The BLU wire on the ICM goes directly to the tachometer. The fluctuating rpm on your video is a dead giveaway. This commonly happens with failing igniters. So much for AutoZone's Well's machine test.

It looks like you have 123,919 miles on your Accord. I recommend replacing ICMs and coils every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. This appears to fit, too.

Today I replaced the ICM with a Honda part, I chose to buy the Honda ICM because with a little research I learned that it would be best and since it probably needed a new one anyway then why not. It did not fix it. I did not buy a Honda distributor housing because I can't afford it right now. A friend seems to think that the issue is air related either too much or not enough. Until I have more money is there any other avenues you would explore? I plan to use the carburetor spray to check for a vacuum leak tomorrow. Also what about the EGR values being clogged read something about that. I just drove the car and I am able to find a sweet spot and get it to go but it seems like it is clogged somewhere or something is stuck. I took another video so that maybe you can hear the clogging/coughing noise.
p1XYd0Rje88

Thank you for all your help thus far!

Did you install NGK spark plugs? Has the distributor ever been replaced before?

To me, it sounds like the engine is being held back and is not responsive at all. I suspect the internal distributor sensors are shot and the timing is not advancing properly, when you give it gas. These sensors provide information to the ECM and ICM that affect ignition timing (the bogging down mentioned) and when the injectors operate (the fuel starvation mentioned). It has to be something fundamentally wrong to create such poor performance. The new ICM seems to have steadied the rpm on the tachometer--it's not fluctuating so much. For perspective, the distributor in my Honda suddenly went at 98,016 miles, on my way to a Christmas party, and I barely limped several miles home. It sounded like a junker. I installed my old igniter and coil in a new Honda distributor housing and everything was cool. At 121,848 miles, I proactively replaced the igniter and coil.

If I'm wrong and it turns out to be a plugged EGR Valve, start using full synthetic engine oil (e.g. Mobil 1 SAE 5W-30). It will help prevent those sort of problems and keep your pollution control system much cleaner. I really don't believe, however, a clogged EGR Valve could adversely affect performance to the degree you are experiencing. I still think it's a distributor housing problem that's completely playing havoc with the timing. Hondas are notorious for distributor problems.

BE SURE TO TEST EACH CYLINDER'S COMPRESSION. It may reveal, for example, a blown head gasket or leaking valves. Did the engine ever overheat?

Since the engine is not running properly, be careful flooring the accelerator. Unburned gas can build-up in the catalytic converter and then be ignited, blowing the exhaust system off the car.

Have you solved the problem?

I hve had the same problem my father seems to think it is the map sensor but I'm not sure. I started it today and now its acting fine so I'm not sure either