OK, So I am going to replace the Main Switch Relay. If that fails I will try the ignition coil and then the ignitor. The Check Engine light came on this morning and didn't turn off. So I got to get to work to start replacing the parts on my car before it gets worst. My question is does anyone know on Auto Parts Fast at RockAuto (http://www.rockauto.com) which kind of ignition coil and ignitor to purchase? When I go to look up those parts on rockauto.com under my 98 Honda specs it brings up 3 different ignition coils and ignitors. Which one is it? I know a little about cars the basics you might say and I'll be replacing these parts myself. Which leaves me to ask also does anyone know of a website that can provide step by step directions with some illustration on how to replace the ignitor and the ignition coil for a 98 Honda? Or should I just purchase the Haynes Manual?

Read sections A and B in the link below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-honda-civics-46563.html

Information is also applicable to Accords--you didn't say whether you had a Civic or an Accord. Also, you should have specified your car model and engine. Be sure and run the K-Test on your ECM.

Read sections A and B in the link below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-honda-civics-46563.html

Information is also applicable to Accords--you didn't say whether you had a Civic or an Accord. Also, you should have specified your car model and engine. Be sure and run the K-Test on your ECM.


I go to turn it on (not to start the car) and the Check Engine Light doesn't turn off. I then try to start and all I hear is a click and nothing else. The click sound is out somewhere in the engine. My fuel pump is fine I can hear it winding when I turn on the car. I read the test in the link you provided. What's the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse?

1998 Honda Accord 4Dr
Engine
Type: Aluminum Alloy: In-Line 4-Cyl.
Displacement (liters): 2.3
Horsepower @ rpm (SAE net): 135 @ 5400
Torque (lb.-ft. @ rpm): 145 @ 4700
Compression Ratio: 8.8: 1
Valve Train: SOHC: 16-Valve
Fuel System: Multi-Point Fuel Injection
Ignition System: Electronic w/Immobilizer

What model--DX, LX, or EX?

Don't worry about the igniter or coil, at this point. Your problem is with an under-dash fuse--ACG (ALT) (S) , ECM, main relay, or ignition switch. The ACG (ALT) (S) fuse controls power to the main relay. Run tests in that order. All of your attention must be directed to getting the CEL to go off.

Follow the steps outlined in the link and test all under-dash and under-hood fuses.

What model--DX, LX, or EX?


Sorry about that. It's a DX. Thanks for your help.

Read section CC on igniter and coil replacement:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-honda-civics-46563-4.html

Read section CC on igniter and coil replacement:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-honda-civics-46563-4.html


Thanks a lot this helps me.
What is the best way to maintenance and take care of the A/C system?

Honestly, taking it to Honda or a shop specializing in Honda/Acuras. Don't let just anyone work on your A/C system--I have seen horror stories.

If you decide to replace your igniter, the best thing for you to do is look at your current one, to ensure you order the right one from RockAuto.com.

If you decide to replace your igniter, the best thing for you to do is look at your current one, to ensure you order the right one from RockAuto.com.


That's what I was going to do. It actually looks pretty easy to replace. Thanks!

You had mention on one of the questions that the Transmission is a sensitive matter for Honda and that maintaining it is important for a long lasting. I have noticed when my Honda slows down (on an automatic transmission) to down shift it jerks a little on the first gear. It doesn't happen all the time but it has happened several times. It usually occurs when I'm in a parking lot just rolling I may accelerate a little and then when I slow down (without pressing on the brake) to the 1st gear that's when it jerks. Is my tranny giving me signs that it will fail soon? If it is I may consider getting another car. This was my 1st Honda and in a way with having some problems with this Honda I'm very disappointed.
Thanks for the help! TX! I've learned a lot.

Try draining the transmission and refilling with Mobil 1 Synthetic Multi-Vehicle ATF. Drain when transmission is hot. Simple job that pays huge dividends.

Try draining the transmission and refilling with Mobil 1 Synthetic Multi-Vehicle ATF. Drain when transmission is hot. Simple job that pays huge dividends.


Well I changed out the Main Relay today. The bad news is it did not fix the problem. I guess now it's time to move onto the ignitor, coil, and cap. It's a little frustrating it had the symptoms of others and the main relay fixed their problem. But it didn't fix mine. I had to drive to the next town to buy it.

Run the K-Test, before doing anything else. You are not following my advice and focusing on getting the CEL to go out. If you don't get the CEL to go out, replacing the igniter, coil, and distributor cap won't make any difference.

Did you test all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter?

Run the K-Test, before doing anything else. You are not following my advice and focusing on getting the CEL to go out. If you don't get the CEL to go out, replacing the igniter, coil, and distributor cap won't make any difference.

Did you test all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter?

The CEL is no longer there. But the reason why it's probably not there because when I went to change the main relay I disconnected the negative cable from the battery. At least that's what the parts person at Honda instructed me to do. I think disconnecting the battery reseted the computer and abled the CEL to go out or I guess I had 2 problems the main relay and the same starting problem. The main relay is now fixed but that starting problem still exist. I'll Run the K-Test.

What's the status of the fuses?

What's the status of the fuses?

Everything is OK on the fuses

If the CEL goes out and you record 5 volts, after running the K-Test, then the igniter and coil is next on the agenda.

If the CEL goes out and you record 5 volts, after running the K-Test, then the igniter and coil is next on the agenda.


You I was just going to tell you how many volts and it is 5 volts. I'm thinking it's the coil. Another person also from this website just emailed me that she had the same problem as I did and it was her coils because she never changed the spark plugs and they got damaged. It cost like $600.00 at the dealership she said. It looks simple to fix though.
But TX I know your busy I just wanted to tell you thanks a million for your help. I really appreciate it.

My recommendation is to replace both igniter and coil--they both are problematic.

My recommendation is to replace both igniter and coil--they both are problematic.


I'll do that this weekend. Now will my car stall if I keep driving it like this? I'm going to try to have it fixed tomorrow but at the same time I need my car today to run some errands.

Hard to tell--I guess just hope for the best.

Hard to tell--I guess just hope for the best.

Thanks!

Thanks!

OK, for anyone that has the same problems as I did on my 98 Honda Accord 4DR. My problems was if I drove the car for 15min or more once I arrived at my destination I tried to restart the car and it wouldn't restart after the 3rd or sometimes 7th try. Also I noticed when it was hot outside the car would also not start. I fixed my problem today. The first thing you should do is to troubleshoot the "PGM-FI Main Relay Switch" and do a test on it to make sure it works. (If you hear the fuel pump wind that means it works) The next thing is observe and describe exactly what your car does when you try to start it. Also know the difference between "cranking" and "no sound" when you go to try to start your car. I know a little about cars and I've been reading some of everybodies same problems and answers. This is how I solved my problem. From the key I put it into the ignition I turn it and I get power. I then complete the turn to try to start the car all I can hear is a CLINK sound. (Remember "cranking", "no sound", and "clink" observe what you hear) So I try again and I keep hearing that "clink" sound. The "clink" sound is coming from the starter solenoid which means that it's not the solenoid because it's working. (As long as you can hear that "clink" sound it works) So here was my problem it was the STARTER MOTOR. Some said they were told it was their ignitor,coil, plugs and distributer. You really have to pay attention to what your car is doing and then it'll be easy. I figured out my problem by thinking once I turned the key the power flow allowed me go through the ignition, ignitor, coil and all that other stuff. But it ended at the Starter Solenoid. What does the STARTER DO? IT turns the car over it cranks it so that way it hits the fly wheel and starts the car! At the same time I also had a check engine light on. It was separate from the Starter it was emissions and was my oxygen sensor. I fixed that after I fixed the Starter. I was still able to start the car with my check engine light on. Keep in mind when you have a check engine light on that just means check your computer and find the code. If you search some shops will give you a good price just to read you the code. Sometimes even for free. I replaced the Starter myself today ( by the way you might as well just buy the entire Starter and Solenoid together) After that I called around and asked to see what were the prices to read my check engine light. As most of them were going to charge me the entire diagnostic fee of $95.00 I found one for $35.00 and would give me the printout. But I found the best one was the mechanic that told me just bring it buy and he'll hook it up and he wouldn't charge me anything. Oh! And also if you disconnect the battery that will reset your computer on the car and the check engine light will go away temporarily. So you want to have that read first before disconnecting because when I disconnected the battery in order to fix my starter the check engine light went away. I had to wait for my code to get stored in the computer again. But my problem is fixed! I hope this helps. Also on 98 Honda Accords the radiator hose is right on top of the starter and that hose can get hot. It can overheat the starter sometimes and may play a role when it was hard to start when the car was hot or driven or a short period.