I recently hit the ditch with my 91 honda civic (DPFI) , its winter time so I got snow around the engine on the left side of it. I was stumped as why it wouldn't start, so I check the ECU codes but no codes where flashed, just the single blink that was all. So I checked the spark plugs and they were dry but still sparking. My next step was replacing the fuel filter because it hadn't been changed for a long time(before I bought the car). I noticed the old fuel filter had fuel in it and the new one was getting fuel.The fuel pump is working but Im not sure what the exact problem is. I have a feeling it's the throttle body not spraying fuel. Any suggestion would help a lot,

Does the CEL come on for 2 seconds and then go out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)? During that interval, do you hear the fuel pump run?

Yea the CEL comes on for 2 seconds when the switch is turn to position 2, and you I hear the fuel pump running while the ignition is at pos.2

Does the CEL, however, go out after 2 seconds or does it stay on?

It goes out after 2 seconds

The problem is likely, then, with the distributor. I would replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-4.html#post265896

ICMs are problematic on these older Hondas. You may have spark, but it may be marginal or it may not be sparking at the exact time the ECM wants it to. 90%+ of crank but won't start situations are ignition system related, not fuel.

Before replacing these components, however, test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-3.html#post252145

Be very thorough, since it will save a lot of time and money.

I checked my distributor cap and it look in good condition, but that's a good suggestion about the plugs not firing at the right time, but my cylinders aren't getting any fuel to them so that was another thing that puzzled me

It's good that the distributor cap is not corroded inside, or that the center electrode is not worn, but usually the ICM and/or coil are the culprits with these distributors. You may also want to clean the main ECM ground, located on the thermostat housing. That can prevent the fuel injectors from working properly and costs nothing. Normally, however, if you can hear the main relay click and the fuel pump run for 2 seconds, when you turn the ignition switch to Position II, the fuel system is fine.

Thanks for the suggestions. Ill try cleaning the ECM tomorrow morning, and check the ICM/coil while I'm at it.
Thanks again