92 accord, no spark. Came into my shop with a bad ignition lock cylinder. Replaced that and it won't start. I replaced the distributor and still nothing.

Tried...

Distributor, didn't fix it.

K test on map sensor, if it's the black box on firewall with 2 connectors on the outside of it, and got no voltage. On right connector red wire.

The main relay doesn't click

Tried jumping the check engine light, but it doesn't seem to work, c.e.l. is on, but jumping 2 prong connector on pass floorboard doesn't make it blink.

There is no fuel pump noise either.

The ECM is shot, if you performed the K-Test properly. MAP Sensors have a 3-wire connector going to them, with a hose to the throttle body. Turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), when you run the test.

Replacing the ECM should solve all of your problems:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-3.html#post235038

Tested all fuses, have 12 volts to the dist.

I used a multimeter, key in position 2, tried using multiple grounds to ensure good reading, and got nothing.

The map sensor is on the pass side firewall, with a blue honda motor sticker on it, and has 2 connectors on it, with 3 vacuum lines running to the throttle body, correct?

My main question is, why can't I get the check engine light to blink? The blue connector on the pass kickpanel should make the cel blink when jumpered correct?

You can't get the CEL to blink, because the ECM has failed. Install a new ECM and EVERYTHING should work flawlessly. Easy job.

If the CEL stays on, the problem is with the ACG (ALT) (S) 15 amp fuse, in the under dash fuse/relay box; ECM (perform the K-Test); main relay; or the ignition switch. Since we know that the fuses and the ignition switch are good, the problem is with either the ECM or main relay. Since the ECM completely fails the K-Test, it's the real problem. Main relays never cause the problems you are experiencing.

Weird. What would cause the ecm to fail? The key would barely turn in the cylinder, so I replaced it, the car wouldn't start before then though. Would that have any relation to the ecm dying?

Unlikely the switch had anything to do with the ECM failing. ECM failure is fairly common on older Hondas. Frequently, the electrolytic capacitors start to leak and then burn through. Remove the cover to the ECM and you may see a bad capacitor or microprocessors crazed by heat.

Install a remanufactured ECM for around $275. Shop for price and warranty--then, your customer will be happy.

The main relay doesn't click, because the ECM is toast. Grounding for the second relay inside the main relay is controlled by the ECM. The "weight of the evidence" overwhelmingly points to a failed ECM.

Replaced the ecm, still doesn't have spark. Now what

Go back and test all under hood and under dash fuses with your multimeter. Especially, check the BACKUP Fuse, in the under hood fuse box, and the ACG (S) (ALT) fuse, in the under dash fuse box. The latter fuse is likely located in the upper right-hand corner of the fuse box, along with the SRS fuses. Additionally, clean the main ECM ground, located on the thermostat housing. It likely has 3-wires going into a brass connector.

With the new ECM, and after cleaning the main ECM ground, does the CEL come on and then go off after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)?

*** am I doing wrong to not be able to get the cel to flash?

Yes. Remove the shunt going to the Service Check Connector. Before checking for codes, you need to make sure the CEL comes on for 2 seconds and then goes off, when the ignition switch is turned to ON.

The cel stays on permanently.

Also, I still get no voltage to the map sensor

Clean the main ECM ground, check the BACKUP Fuse, check the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse, and make sure you are really dealing with the MAP Sensor.

You have a pic of the map sensor? I can't find a good one online.

And where is the ACG alt s fuse?

Go to AutoZone.com and plug in the data for a 1992 Accord and you will see what it looks like.

Check the cover for where the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse may be; otherwise, be very thorough and check all under dash fuses.

WHAT... THE... FFUUUUUCCCKKKKKKKKKKKKKK...

THE ACS ALT S FUSE... WAS GONE!!

How did this car run without it??

Why was it missing?

I've worked on this car before, replaced the dist. on it twice. And I am the only mechanic to touch it as far as I know... so w t f??

I worked with a Navy Seal extraction team mechanic, who's friend removed the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse from his Civic as a joke years ago. Someone has to really know these cars to know to do that. Let the investigation begin.

The car should now fire right up.

Yup, runs like a champ. I hate this car, it's a disaster every time it comes in for repair.

Thank you for the help, you are a good man.

Nice job. If you find out what happened to the old ACG (ALT) (S) fuse, let me know. That's just too weird. This thread should go into the archives.

I got another question for you.

After replacing the ignition cylinder, the beeper that beeps if the key is in, or the lights were left on, it now beeps when you take the key out if the drivers door is open.

Did I explain that right? Key out of ignition, every time the drivers door is open, the beeper is beeping.

Sounds like it may be an alignment issue. Did you follow the procedure below, when you changed the lock?

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-2.html#post224842