I have a kitchen outlet that stopped working. I had to rebuild my floor, and everything was working fine, but after I put everything back down, the outlet didn't work anymore. That part of the kitchen is over slab, so I can't get back to it without ripping it all up again. I definitely have power from the junction box, and if I use a voltage detector right on the first inch of wire (inside the box), I detect power. Unfortunately, it's BX cable, so the detector doesn't work through the armoring further along. At the outlet, I don't detect any voltage. I doubt I can pull new wires through the armoring, right? I can try pulling the whole BX cable out (with new cable attached), but I'm worried that I may really pass the point of no return - plus, I stapled the cable to a floor joist. Any ideas?

So you know the junction box feeding the cable and the cable? You have power at the feeding junction box and going into to the cable but have no power in the outlet box or just in the recepacle holes? Pulling the cable out will be almost impossible as far as I know, if you stapled it. I would look into running a cable a different way, to the nearest box in the attic or something. I have got wire to go through mc sheath, mc is a little bigger than bx. If this is the only outlet on the cable and it is #12 you could downsize to fourteen stranded and see if that will go through. But if a once perfectly good cable no longer is carrying power after a major job like that I would say the cable was pinched or pierced in which case you probably don't want to do this.

That's what I was afraid of. I took the outlet out and tested the wires, with no luck. It is the only outlet from the junction box, but it's a 20-amp circuit, so I shouldn't go down to 14, should I?

Try cutting back wire in junction box ,use new wire nuts ,then try power at receptical if it is there, replace receptical.

Uglys electrical referance.. 14{awg} copper carries 20 amps, 12{ awg} gauge carries 25 amps... aluminium carries 20 amps on twelve,fourteen not on charte ,not recommended near kichen high amp appliances,also add G.F.I.

Mike,

You are taking the Uglys out of content.

The NEC limits 14 AWG to a maximum amperage of 15 amps. At 60 (C)

12 AWG is a maximum of 20 amps. At 60 (C).

As type and temperature (the listed operating temperature of components go up, the listed amperage will change.

I did all that; I've got power at then other side of the connection, but it doesn't make it all the way to the other end.

The code says in residences 20amp general use lighting and receptacles are to be on 12 wire. It's a safety thing. If wire could be pushed through there it might be easier and cheaper to replace the plug and breaker with 15 amps.

But like I said if electrons can't pass through the cable I would doubt wire will. Sounds like your best bet is to reroute the cable to a outlet or box down the wall somewhere via overhead access or if you can go underfloor.

Aguywithfeet,

Please tell me where in the NEC you find that statement.

You are incorrect. General use lighting and receptacles can be 15 Amp, #14 AWG. They are not required to be 20 amp circuits.

They can be 20 amp circuits if that is what is chosen.

The safety is with respect to the voltamps (VA) of the circuit.