AlistairImrie
Nov 10, 2010, 01:02 PM
I have a Trane XL80 that is around 10 years old. There is an intermittent problem where the furnace burners sometimes fail to ignite. Sometimes when they do ignite they go out before they should. The engineer came and fitted a new flame sensor, but this made no difference. He then claimed the problem was a faulty electricity supply (ground fault?), based on the controller's LED indicator flashing twice. However, I was not persuaded by this as there was no other evidence of such a problem, and the furnace had been working fine for several years. As an experiment I temporarily re-wired the furnace to a new dedicated circuit with its own brand new breaker in my house circuit breaker box, and as I expected the problematic behaviour persisted.
A couple of years ago the same engineer fitted a new controller after the heating system failed. I wasn't around at the time, so I don't know if this is related or not.
My hunch is that the gas valve is somehow sticking shut.
I have noticed that although the problem is intermittent, whenever it does occur, if I tap the gas valve moderately firmly then it suddenly corrects itself and the burners light. (I listen for a click which is presumably some sort of relay feeding current to the valve, and if the gas doesn't light immediately, I give the valve a tap right away.) I believe the electricity required to open the valve is 24 volts AC, and as far as I can tell, this supply is fine.
Can anybody advise what is going on? I am fairly sure a replacement gas valve will fix it, but my engineer does not agree.
A couple of years ago the same engineer fitted a new controller after the heating system failed. I wasn't around at the time, so I don't know if this is related or not.
My hunch is that the gas valve is somehow sticking shut.
I have noticed that although the problem is intermittent, whenever it does occur, if I tap the gas valve moderately firmly then it suddenly corrects itself and the burners light. (I listen for a click which is presumably some sort of relay feeding current to the valve, and if the gas doesn't light immediately, I give the valve a tap right away.) I believe the electricity required to open the valve is 24 volts AC, and as far as I can tell, this supply is fine.
Can anybody advise what is going on? I am fairly sure a replacement gas valve will fix it, but my engineer does not agree.