In removing old carpet and a basement sub-floor in a house that was built in 1974 (in Quebec, Canada),
I have discovered what looks like the "rough-in" for a bathroom.
Found a 4 inch "lead cap" which is most likely for the toilet.
Found a 2 inch "lead cap"?? Never seen one of those before.
And it looks like the top has been cut off and the lead bent outward to form a flange.
There is a metal "screw cap" screwed in the opening, like if someone used it and decide to cap it again.

Can I use this to connect a tub or shower? If so what do I use to connect to the drain?
Is there a system like for toilets of a metal flange and a "wax donut" to seal the connection?

Thanks
Dan

Could you take pictures and show us? This 2", Where's it setting in relationship to a wall? To complete this rough there should be one more 2" stub up. Regards, Tom

Hope the code below works.
You should see 3 photos with notes...

C:\Users\Dan\Pictures\Basement_Bathroom\BathroomDr ains.jpg

Sorry! It didn't uploa

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I'll be looking for it. Cheers, Tom

Here you go

Thanks
D

Everything looks to be as you suggest... almost ;)

On the 2", unscrew the cap and pour 1/2 gallon of water into the drain. Then, take a flashlight and look inside the drain to see if you see standing water...if you see standing water then the drain is properly trapped but I'm thinking you have a FLOOR DRAIN there, not a tub/shower drain. I'm just basing this on proximity of the 2" cap to the toilet pipe. It could be for a tub... maybe?

Once you determine if the pipe is trapped properly measure across the threads (diameter) and tell us the measure so we can tell you what you are roughed in for, OK?

Glad to help...

Mark

Hi,
Just poured a bucket of water in 2 shots. The water level at bottom of pipe stays the same. By the way I measured it again - this time with cap off and it is 1 1/2 inches.

There is another drain with plug (this one is 2 inches) next to the sink pvc drain pipe. This one also has a constant level of water at the bottom.
I think this one was meant to be the floor drain because the basement floor is recessed approx 4 inches all around that plug. It is like if the previous owners of the house plugged it instead of having a perforated grid/plate over it.

Question: if the lead sleeve is a though one to transform into a proper tub or shower drain, can the other 2 inch be used as a drain? How does one vent those when they are in the floor?

Thx
D

Forgot to mention the drain close to toilet sleeve, the one that that I think is another lead sleeve, has no thread. The cap/plug is simply forced screwed into the lead sleeve, so there are only threads where the cap has "touched" the sides of the sleeve the rest is smooth inside for what looks like another 6 inches or so. Here are some photos of the 2 drains...

Hi Dan...

Running off to work... will review this when I get back in and post on this later tonight.

Mark

This is what I think I will do...

Since the lead sleeve is too close to toilet sleeve to use as a "1 1/2 inch tub drain" I think
I will install the bathroom sink near there and use that drain - Can a drain have 2 P-traps?
I would like to put one under the sink in case things fall in - I could have acess via the trap.
If that is possible then - How do you vent a drain with 2 traps? Where do I connect in the drain run, between the 2 traps?
To tie-in to the lead sleeve I am thinking of "force screwing" a metal fitting with thread - like the people before me did with the metal cap.
I figure that the lead sleeve is stuck in cement and can't bend out of shape too much so the metal pipe fitting would make its own threads
In the weeker lead and stay in place nice and snug.
I hope this will give me a proper seal and from there I will screw a female ABS fitting and continue with 1 1/4 inch plastic to the sink.
(I don't want to break the slab and change everything - although it would allow me to move the drain - wife will kill me! )

For the shower - I am thinking of using the nearby floor drain since that is a 2 inch. That will also need a vent right?

Lastly I think the toilet is straight forward: insert a plate/ring around the sleeve; cut the lead; bend it back over the ring; put the wax ring, tighten toilet onto it. Did I forget something? Vent for a basement toilet?

Any thoughts or comments please?!

Thanks
Dan

Hi Dan...

Sorry, this one got away from me!

You absolutely CANNOT double trap any fixture... one trap can siphon the other trap and that will allow sewer gasses into your new bathroom... UGH!

The toilet pipe... that's lead, too? I couldn't tell that from here.

For the shower... that drain may already be vented so you may be able to INDIRECTLY connect without the need to vent.

Any chance you can take a few more angle shots/pics. Of the bathroom layout and post back so I can finalize an approach here? I'm looking for wider angle pics. OK?

Let me know...

Mark

Hi Mark,
Thanks for your help.
Won't be able to take photos for a few days...
I loaded the space with stuff from my workshop while I am re-painting the floor!
I have attached a scale drawing to show where the drains are.
Hope this can help.
I was thinking of shower in lower left corner, maybe raised a bit to
Allow for drain pipe towards floor drain "D".
Sink towards upper right corner with drain going to drain "C".

About the double trap, if the floor one syphons the sink one, won't the
Floor one still prevent gasses from leaking into the bathroom?
Is there another way to "catch" debris dropped into a sink?
Something I can access that is not a P-Trap and won't affect the trap that is in the floor - that way I would not be "double trapped".

Thanks
D

Hey Dan...

Plumbing is filled with all kinds of codes that will drive you nuts!

First rule is that no fixture can be double trapped... so you can't do it here.

Another issue is that a tailpiece out from a fixture cannot exceed 24"...so you can't just drop pipes into the "floor drains".

In commercial settings we can "indirectly" connect a sink to a properly vented and trapped floor drain... key word is indirectly in that we must leave an air gap between the sink pipe and the floor drain. However, residentially you can't indirectly connect a lavatory sink... not legally... especially, not under that floor! Best bet here is to break the floor up and remove the trap below the floor and then run a new pipe up and out of the ground for your sink.

Now, the shower... Here, you might actually be able to get approval to "indirectly" connect your shower drain to a "properly vented and trapped" floor drain (D in your picture). Why would it be approved here? It could potentially be approved based on the fact that the "tailpiece" from the fixture (shower) doesn't exceed 24" so you may be able to convince an inspector to let you connect up somehow... maybe?

All that being said, I think you need to consult a local plumber or a plumbing inspector and see what they think about your setup because the fact is that no matter what I suggest here each state has its own code system and each city/town likes to interpret the code differently... really complicates things, for sure!

I've tried to give you some insight into the code, but I'd really like you to talk to people in your area and then please... let me know what you guys decide.

Personally, I would break up the floor in two places and relocate the pipes for the sink and the shower... labor intensive, but cheap money... :)

Still glad to discuss anything you want!

Mark

Thanks for the help.
Will work on this a bit later.
My time off from work is almost over.
Will post results back here when done.

Thanks again for the help.
D

I appreciate it!