Hi. I opened the ceiling below the bath tub and found out that prior fix on the bath tub was not done properly. The drain assembly and P-trap are too long (in height) resutling in P-trap extending below the ceiling frame where drywall should be installed (please see attached photos). What is the best option to fix this?

I am assuming all parts are glued together, in which case, what is the best way to open them and replace them? What parts and tools do I need? Is this a job that I should call for a plumber or I should be able to handle it myself.

I am new to plumbing so a detailed reply would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Amir

32212

32213

Pictures didn't make it. Go to GO ADVANCED/MANAGE ATTACHMENTS. Picturs can be re-sized with the free software www.irfanview.com

I'm not sure you have many options. Online dimensions are hard to come by. I found this: Repair Trap, 1 1/2" x 1 1/4" # PP960W by Plumb Pak Corporation (http://plumbing.hardwarestore.com/51-284-drain-plastics-traps/lavatory-and-kitchen-wall-drain-repair-trap-198606.aspx), but I'm unsure if it's smaller or not.

What I don't like is that the trap is not removeable. An access panel on the ceiling might look funny, but it could be a good idea. Just the access panel might get you the clearance you need.

Everything is based on that pipe hugging the ceiling and you would have to find a smaller trap.

Black looks like ABS, so you have to be careful to use the right cleaner, primer and glue if you had to put in an ABS/PVC joint.

Only the top of the trap loosens and it should slip off. The pipe hugging the ceiling would have to be cut and a coupling inserted. A multi-purpose glue can cement ABS and PVC.

The difficulty is finding a trap that will work.

An access panel would be a great idea.

Here is a unique one: Access Panel Solutions Inc - Baucoplus Access Panels for Drywall (http://www.accesspanelsolutions.com/rondo.htm)

I was thinking to cut the pipe above the trap just below the yellow glue, remove the adaptor that is screwed to the brass 3-way part and replace it with another similar one and insert/glue the pipe that I cut into the new adaptor.

Not sure if the adaptor connected to brass 3-way is screwed and glued or just screwed. Any ideas about this too? Is it easy to open?

Will this give enough clearance? Is the pipe after the trap flexible enough to allow this?

The drywall is 5/8" thick so if I can push the trap up just enough to less than 5/8" of frame then I can sand the drywall from back to make some more room for the trap.

I think what you have is a slip to hub fitting. See ~page 43 here: http://www.canplasplumbing.com/pricelist/US_Product_Reference_Guide.pdf

In other words once the nut is loosened, the joint will slip. There is a beveled washer that makes the seal. Take a look at your kitchen sink. It might be similar.

This particular company has a misalignment trap which can take up to 10 degrees of misalignment. I've never seen those before.

The pipe generally doesn't BEND. No hub or Proflex connectors can give you a little bit of wiggle room. They are essentially a rubber clamp with a stainless band and hose clamps. They are available at Home Depot.

You might be able to do it.

If the ell coming off the trap is touching the floor there is nothing you can do about it, sorry.