It starting taking longer and longer to start the car then just cranking, no starting. Replaced the fuel pump and the main relay, now it starts but I have to wait for the fuel pump to run. In the morning this can take 10 - 15 minutes with the key in the run position, then the 2 second buzz from the pump and the check engine light goes out and it will start right up. After driving it, the pump comes back in about 10 - 15 seconds but the longer it is off, the longer it takes to start.

Does anybody have any ideas? Please, help. I have stumped 4 self proclaimed Honda experts, 3 of which used to work for Honda!

You have not stumped this Honda expert. Your problem is simple to diagnose and fix:

. Clean the main ECM ground, located on the thermostat housing.

. Replace the ECM, if it fails the K-Test. In fact, I'm so certain of the diagnosis that I would just replace the ECM, if cleaning the main ECM ground doesn't solve the problem.

If it solves your problem, let me know if you think it's worth a tip. Please play fair.

Please don't do a disappearing act, like many others, where you stand in judgment, get your free information, and run. You must have something to say.

You know how they all run:(

I liked your answer(does that help?) :D

We had tried the K-test, I ran across that answer brfore and it has a reliable 5V on the MAP sensor. I wasn't sure if that was a positive indication of the health of the whole ECM module or just one part of it.

I will look at the ground on the thermostat housing. Is it just a wire on the housing bolt? Or is it inside? I replaced the radiator along with the upper and lower hoses a few weeks ago, is it possible I did something to the ground while replacing the lower hose?

That's very possible. Look for a 3-wire brass connector. Remove it and clean with abrasive cloth.

No luck. There are 2 flat blade connectors bolted to the thermostat housing, each with 2 wires. They are tight and clean. I cleaned every connector and checked the fit. There is a brass looking cylender about 3 inches long protruding through the...

If you have cleaned the main ECM ground, the problem is with the ECM. I've seen dozens of instances of intermittent ECM failure on older Hondas. Your slow to energize main relay is a classic sign of this, since grounding to main relay Terminal 8 is controlled by the ECM. Sometimes, the K-Test will show nearly 5 volts; other times, 0.3 volts. Try substituting a known-good ECM. I recommend replacing ECMs on Hondas every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. They are far from bullet-proof. The Honda dealer near me has a bin, in the back right-hand corner of the garage, filled with bad ECMs. Here's how to replace the ECM:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-3.html#post235038


This link may also help you come to the same conclusion:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-7.html#post1245523

OK, a new ECU is in the mail. Thanks for all the details leading me to my resolution. I believe I found a good deal on a chipped ECU. The web site is Phearable.net - Electronic Fuel Injection Tuning Solutions - Hondata, Neptune, Crome, Uberdata, Ectune, AEM, Honda Tuning, Widebands, Fuel Pumps, Intercoolers, Turbos, LS/VTEC, ECU Chipping, Chipped Ecus, P28 (http://www.phearable.net) just in case you are interested.

Good deal. I think you are going to be a happy camper. Let us know if it solved your problem, even though I'm sure it will.

Did the new ECU solve the problem?

Yes it did, thank you. I didn't want to jinx it by saying anything too soon, but the car has been running great.

Nice job.

Thanks you are truly an expert fixed the problem

Thank you, joshsexton89. Yes, this thread is a "saver."