It runs fine until it gets hot and then it will turn over but not crank. Its getting fuel and spark. I've changed the fuel main relay, the ignition modual. Help!

Turning over and cranking are the same thing. Are you saying it will not start, after it gets hot?

If that's the story, replace the ignition coil. Also, ensure you applied a thin, even coat of silicone heat transfer compound to the back of the Ignition Control Module.

When the check engion light comes on, what can it make not work the engion will turnover but not star?

If you are saying the Check Engine Light stays on, and the engine won't start, then ECM (computer) may be bad. Perform the K-Test, below:

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

Hi ashleighennaro, very interested if you were able to get your Civic started. Would it be possible if you can post your resolution? Thanks.

when the check engion light comes on, what can it make not work the engion will turnover but not star?

The check engine light will normally be on if the key is in the run position but the engine isn't running.
Can you find out if the engine has spark or no spark?
You may find weak spark or none at all.
Also: who is doing the diagnosis?

Don't know if you've solved it yet but you have a bad crank sensor and it is in the distributor. Change it and you're good to go.

I had 0.35 volts at the map sensor. Pulled the ECM and BAM fried cap it took the traces out and everything. You rock I'm going to drink a beer for you tonight. Thanks. You rock.