I am wondering if I can use US ceiling fixtures in Europe? Of course, need different bulbs for 220v vs 110v.
My question is whether the junction mounts in the ceiling in Europe are different from US mounts? Any advice welcome.

In general terms AC is AC no matter what the voltage. So when creating a circuit its still the same hookup. Like you already know it would have to have different bulbs is all.

Thanks - my question is more about the hardware in the ceiling junction box. In the US there is a small threaded vertical pipe mounted in the box, onto which the fixture mounts. Do European ceiling junction boxes have the same pipe? I'm trying to figure out if US fixtures can be made to stay up or will they crash to the floor :)

I did some searching. With Google, I restricted the domain .uk using advanced search. I used terms such as "ceiling junction box" and "ceiling rose".

I did come up with this: Pre-Wired Plug-In Ceiling Rose - Screwfix.com, Where the Trade Buys (http://www.screwfix.com/prods/10703/Electrical-Supplies/Switches-Sockets/White-Moulded/White-Wiring-Other/Prewired-Plug-In-Ceiling-Rose#) Look at the enlarged picture.

But, it's a cord grip style fixture.

Might help to know what country in Europe your going to.

I could see a cord grip style fixture holding one of the US style hollow threaded rods, though.

Contrary to Cal's earlier statement it really does matter about the fixture assembly.

If you take a 120 VAC - 60 Hz (cycles) and hang it on a 240 VAC source (most European countries), you are going to fry every light bulb. You can also start a fire.

For example, here in the U.S. we have a 120/240 volt system. The 120 is derived by using a "Neutral" conductor positioned equidistant between the line conductors.

This means that voltage measured between L1 and L2 will equal 240. While voltage measured between L1 and Neutral will measure 120. The same would be true for L2 and Neutral, 120.

When Neutral fails here, the circuit sees the entire 240 Volts. This effectively halves the resistance of the Light fixture, which in turn doubles the amperage and frys the device. Simple Ohms Law.

However in your situation, the resistance will stay the same because of the design of the device.

Voltage/Resistance = Amperage.

120/6 = 20 A
240/6 = 80 V - Goodbye Device!

Contrary to Cal's earlier statement it really does matter about the fixture assembly.

If you take a 120 VAC - 60 Hz (cycles) and hang it on a 240 VAC source (most European countries), you are going to fry each and every light bulb. You can also start a fire.



How can you fry every light bulb if the bulbs are already set up for the 240? Somewhere Im losing you on this.

Morning Cal,

Well first of all the if you try to put a 240 V light bulb into a 120 V device, it will most likley not fit.

2nd. the internal wiring of a 120 device is not designed to handle 240 V. The wiring is much to light to handle the increased amperage.

All:
Many thanks for the quick input. I've brought 220v fixtures from Europe in the past and used US 110v bulbs, so bulb fit/screw threading is not an issue. But also explains why EU fixture in US is OK but not the reverse.
KeepItSimple, thanks for the link to the site - seems there is some way to hang the fixutre from ceiling one way or another.
So sounds like the core issue is that US fixture wiring won't handle 220v load without major risk of fire, etc. That's a good reason not to do it...

Looks like fixture wire typically has 600 V ratings. Zip cord is sometimes used in chandeliers and typically has a 600 V rating.

The problem may be the socket voltage rating: http://www.experts123.com/q/are-e26-and-e27-light-bulb-bases-interchangeable.html

So, basically you need to inspect the socket to see if it's rated >240 V. Wiring should be OK. If it contains any switches or pull chain switches the rating of that has to be checked too.