Hello friends. I am right now in the middle of a brutal bath remodel (I bet they all are though). Im having trouble figuring out how to re-plumb the tub drain.

I have access to the tub drain from the first floor. A 1 1/2" pipe travels from the main drain stack/vent about 4' and through a floor joist into a series of 45's and 90's then into a S trap. None of these joints un-sweat with mapp gas, I suspect I need more heat or they are not soldered.

My local Home Depot guy suggested I cut the pipe, solder on a threaded end, then PVC back to the tub which has a 1 1/2" pipe for the drain. I can make this connection with a compression fitting I hope

Any suggestions to make this easier? I have been told what I have is not to code. It's original to the 40 yo house and I don't have any draining/smell issues. Perhaps the proximity of the main drain/vent makes this work?

Thank in advance, I promise not to be too much trouble !

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Hi Ablumny...

Your best bet here will be to cut the copper pipe back a couple feet and then join PVC to the copper pipe using a SHIELDED CLAMP... see image.

You'll need to purchase an 1.5" copper x 1.5" PVC shielded clamp (also called a mission or proflex clamp)... these may not be available at home depot but all plumbing supply stores carry them.

Once you transition over to the PVC you'll want to install the PTRAP without turning up like your old copper trap does. Here, you say you have an "strap" and it sure looks like one, but it is really a PTRAP with a couple fittings installed to bring the trap higher. You have room to lower that trap... see if you can, the tub will drain better.

Finally, always best to vent the tub if possible... and I assure you it is possible, but more work than you might want to go through.

You decide... OK?

If you want to discuss more, let us know...

Mark

PS, the tub drain can connect VIA a compression fitting (called a desanco fitting in my area) or you can install another shielded transition clamp, i.e. an 1.5" PVC x tub tailpiece shielded clamp.


I'm a big fan of sweating the FEMALE adapter onto the copper... ALWAYS, the best way to go, but not always easy for homewowners.. as you discovered... ;)

If you can get a bigger torch (can rent them) then go with the adapter. Otherwise, the PROFLE shielded clamps work just fine. I've been using them for many years now with perfect results!

Mark

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Has there been a permit pulled and will this job be inspected? Back to you, Tom

Not yet

The mappgas won't work... will just end up burning the ceiling up. Use the shielded clamp... they work just fine and are an accepted and reliable standard for transitioning between dissimilar materials. Otherwise, use two mappgas torches or rent a bigger torch at a rental store to solder on the threaded adapter.

Finally, you can't jump above the joist the way you have it drawn up above... unacceptable by any code... anywhere... ;)

If you don't have room to drop below the ceiling into the cabinet space a bit then stick with the way it is piped now but transition over to PVC.

I would, however, prefer to see the trap hang below the ceiling abit if needed... seems the cabinet top would hide it well... maybe?

As Tom asked, are you having this inspected? You said, "not yet", which suggests that it will be inspected... If that is so, we need to find a way to fix this properly.

Back to you...

Mark

PS: To type a response to us post in the ANSWER THIS QUESTION BOX at the bottom of this screen... answer will show up at the bottom of the thread.

Thank you for the reply Mark. I did decide to do this the right way to code. I kept the drain pipe where it was, Let the trap hang down into my kitchen (I'll deal with it somehow) and installed a vent in the line to the main stack. I think Im good to go.

Thanks
Andrew

O yea... I used a shielded clamp as suggested !

ALSO, I am now told I can't use a Union Nut between the 90 degree elbow and the trap. Must be a solid connection when its in the ceiling. Agree?

Awesome... :)

Thanks for the update!

Mark

If a tee were installed between the 45 and the 90 and used to run a vent back to the stack, would that make it up to code. Keeping the trap at its present height.

Ablumny... yes, best not to have a union nut in the trap if in a ceiling. For most tubs, I actually install a cleanout in the tub vent at about 36" off the floor so that when the tub clogs and is full I can still pull the cleanout plug and snake the tub drain itself without having to drain the tub. The cleanout usually faces into the closet behind the tub. Normally, you'd have a cleanout in the bottom of the trap just in case you need to remove a diamond ring or something else so valuable that you're willing to drop the kitchen cabinet in your case... :)

Harold, if a vent tee was installed in between 45 degree fitting and the 90 going into the trap and it was at least two pipe diameters away from the trap all would work out great for ablumny... BUT I don't think he could pull it off in the joist bay as things are set up now.

If he rerouted the pipe back aways and then drilled the joists he could probably reroute the pipe and make it all work out... if he's willing to do the work... ;)

Thanks!

Mark