My aged Honda HS35 Snow Blower runs like a dream and usually started at the first pull. However, the sort of u-shaped wire at the bottom of the Choke Knob shaft somehow came loose from wherever it is supposed to connect to. The wire is still connected to the Choke Knob shaft at the other end. I suspect it will be quite obvious where the wire has to be reconnected once I get the plastic control panel off. The problem is, I haven’t been able to get the panel off because can’t quite figure out how to get the Fuel Valve knob and the Engine Switch knob off. I tried prying to some extent but don’t want to try too hard because I might damage something. I somehow got the Choke knob off last year but I don’t remember how I did it. Can anyone tell me how these knobs come off? Also, as long as I am asking, will it really be obvious where the sort of u-shaped wire gets connected? Does anyone know of a diagram existing somewhere that shows it? Thank you very much for your help.

I am only answering because it looks as if no one has an answer so I am going to give a pathetic attempt, The "on" "off" switch looks to be a press in as for the rest I would find a HONDA dealer local with PART SMART and ask for a printed panel schematic. Ask Nice they will be more motivated.. . Maybe offer cookies.

Thank you newaukumdon for your information. I appreciate it. However, I am not familiar with PART SMART or how to discover whether a Honda dealer has it. Also, as far as I know a schematic is an electrical roadmap. I don't see how that is going to tell me how to get the knobs off. Am I missing something?

"I am only answering because it looks as if no one has an answer so I am going to give a pathetic attempt."

O.K. If you ask the local dealer for a parts break down of the control panel He (she) wll use a parts program called PART SMART. You would call them to find out if it is available.

Like I said before, I am certain there are plenty of people with better info on this particular problem, I just tried to help because it looked as if no one was making an attempt.
Regards,
Don

Schematic diagrams are used extensively in repair manuals to help users understand the relative position of parts and to provide graphical instruction to assist in taking apart and rebuilding mechnical assemblies.

Forgot to clarify that before, but most people associate schematic with wiring. Different levels of expertise asking questions and I assumed too much.

Regards,
Don

Rudy, Looks quite hard but real easy.. On/off switch leave it alone doesn't have to come off there are I believe four 6mm bolts holding on control panel.. 4 also holding on the red body cover.. removal of this red cover allows you to see in behind control panel. Fuel shut of switch is the easiest turn to off position then back 1/8 of turn and pull up.. with red cover off you will see the tabs that need to be aligned before you can pull it up. The choke is little bit different there is a screw right under the knob and the you can remove that. Hope this helps.:)

Thanks, Eqaaah, for the good information. I have already removed the red cover and unbolted the control panel. I have also managed to get 2 of the knobs off. The only one I haven’t been able to get off is the ON/Off Switch knob. You say it doesn’t have to come off but on my HS-35 it indeed does if I want to remove the panel. I may have a different model than the one you have. It is 18 years old but in great shape. The On/Off knob on mine has a black plastic round piece right under the knob. It has a slightly larger diameter than the red knob. It doesn’t seem to come off by prying but I haven’t used all my strength on it because I am concerned about breaking it. Any other ideas? It is raining here but I fear the snow is right around the corner. Rudy.:confused:

Thank you all for your encouraging advice. Even thouigh I could not get the last kno:) b off, I was able to bend the plastic panel enough to get behind it and successfully link up the choke shaft. Nothing succeeds like success! Thanks again.

Thank you all for your encouraging advice. Even thouigh I could not get the last kno:) b off, I was able to bend the plastic panel enough to get behind it and successfully link up the choke shaft. Nothing succeeds like success! Thanks again.

I have the exact samoe problem you have. I read all of thread and don't see where anyone told you where the choke linkeage wire at the bottom of the shaft connects to? Mine came off also between last week and today when I went to start it up. So I've been trying to see where it connect to. I believe it is the same piece you referred to as having a upside down "u" it comes off the bottom of the choke shaft. We had 6" last night so I'm getting depsarate at thisp point.

We had two of the HS35 snowblowers in our family over the years, so when we had problems with one, it was much easier to go to the other and "feel" where things should go - you can't really see it. I only have the one now, but this has been a constant problem over the years. The choke control knob has a metal rod attached to it. The end connected to the knob shaft itself usually stays put. It's the other end that comes out. The end of the choke rod fits into a small hole at the top of another (separate) component (carb?) that turns. It's like a manual remote control. The choke knob doesn't actually touch the carb. Directly - it uses the choke rod as it's linkage.

It's really difficult to provide a "visualization" of the setup between the knob and the carb. You really have to get your hand in under the control panel - and feel your way around. If you can get your fingers underneath the control panel and positioned under the choke knob, turn it to the open/close position with the other hand and you'll feel feel the metal choke rod moving around.

When you can feel the rod moving around, it needs to be pointing off to the right (between the 2:00 and 4:00 positions).

The next step is harder to describe. You have to consider where the free end of the choke rod is and feel around for a separate component (possibly the top of the carb. ) in that area - the top of which turns. It feels to be round and plastic with a flat top and just a bit more than an inch wide. I believe it only turns about 1/4 of a full turn - from about the 9:00 to 12:00 positions (which makes sense - it should move about as far as the knob). If you can find the top of that piece and turn it with your fingers, you should be able to feel a small hole on the top of it. Turn the top to get that hole back to the 9:00 position. The end of the choke rod fits into that hole. It can be difficult to get it back in with just your fingers - you have to put some force on the end of the choke rod and you have to move both the rod and the hole it fits into a bit to get the alignment to work.

Once it's back in, you'll immediately feel the difference in the choke control. When it's disconnected, the knob turns "loosely". After reconnecting it, you'll feel the tension again. When it is connected, that's a good time to "feel" how it all works together - for future reference.

Good luck. It really is a very simple problem and once it starts happening, it will happen more and more frequently. It's difficult to describe when you have to rely on touch rather than sight. You don't have to take everything apart to reconnect it - that's a lot of effort and it's going to pop out again.