Looking for ideas on how to route the vent for the kitchen sink. The sink sits directly in front of a window, and as originally designed the vent runs inside the wall up behind the sink to just below the window, then turns left and goes through several cripple studs under the window framing, then through the jack stud and king stud for the window header, then it turns up and wends its way to the attic and roof. The problem is that as originally built the holes through these studs are too large, and with changes we're making to the framing of the house these studs will be required to carry more load than they did previously. We've looked into using stud shoes to shore up the studs, but the architect doesn't like this idea. I'm wondering what other solutions there might be. How are vents normally through supporting studs like this? Or is there another way - such as routing the vent outside the house? Looking for ideas - thanks.

You could skip the stack and use an AAV if your plumbibg code allows them.

You could skip the stack and use an AAV if your plumbibg code allows them.

Thanks - I found this, which looks like a nice solution for installing an air admittance valve with outdoor venting:

Auto vents and automatic home sewer vents from FAMOUS PLUMBING SUPPLY (http://www.plumbingsupply.com/autovent.html)

We used one of these AAVs for venting the washing machine in our previous house, and to be honest - it made the laundry room stink after each load was done. So if I go this route I want it vented outside. I'll check to see whether our town allows it.

AAV are mechanical and can fail. If you had a sewer smell in the laundry area that AAV wasn't functioning properly.

Bad news - AAV's are not allowed by local code.

Good news - we've just figured out a way of replacing the existing sink drain by routing it horizontally to the left out of the sink base cabinet into a dead area between cabinets, and then down through the floor in this dead area. So now we can T the vent into the drain in that dead area, thus avoiding all the load bearing studs. So - problem solved!

I was afraid of that, manycodes do not allow them

So now we can T the vent into the drain in that dead area
By "dead area" do you mean that the drain has nothing draining in it and eit xits out the roof?
Let me know, Tom

Bad news - AAV's are not allowed by local code.

Good news - we've just figured out a way of replacing the existing sink drain by routing it horizontally to the left out of the sink base cabinet into a dead area between cabinets, and then down through the floor in this dead area. So now we can T the vent into the drain in that dead area, thus avoiding all the load bearing studs. So - problem solved!

If you are going to run the vent horizontally through the cabinets as well, hold it as high as possible and use drainage fittings (long sweeps) where applicable.

Widdershins,
I'm curious, Since this will be used as a vent why use drainage fittings, (long sweeps) instead of vent ells? Is this code in your area?
Just wondering, Tom

Widdershins,
I'm curious, Since this will be used as a vent why use drainage fittings, (long sweeps) instead of vent ells? Is this code in your area?
Just wondering, Tom

If it's going to be run horizontally through the cabinets, then it will be below the flood rim of the sink, which would require the use of drainage fittings.

You could install an 'island vent' to vent this sink.

You can also vent the sink through a side wall.

Stud shoes are code approved and can be used even if your architect doesn't like them.

Home much or how many holes are bored through cripple studs under a window are pretty much irrelevant because they are not really load bearing. The loads from above are transferred to the jack and king studs via the header.

As long as only the jack and king stud are bored through and structural stud shoes are installed, there is no problem.