Goodman heat pump, model GSH130361AD, Goodman AEPF series Air Handler, and a Honeywell T8411R t-stat.
After wiring and setting everything up, the A/C works very good. In heat mode the aux heat comes on but the outside unit does not start up. Emergency heat works well too.

The units are used with only a few hours on them. The T-stat is new.
ANY IDEAS?

Wiring could be not done right low voltage from the tstat

I Understand. I checked and rechecked all of the terminal connections for point to point connectivity as in the manuals and on the unit cards. All match. I have a 2 stage heat and one stage cool t-stat and I assume having a heat strip and the heat pump are the two stages and th heat pump has one compressor. So I assume I have the correct configuration and wiring as everything else works but the heat pump in heat mode.

There is one wiring schematic for my GoodMan air handler model #AEPF426016CA that states to cut a jumper on the control board labeled "OT1 PJ4" which (above the jumper ) is marked "W1-//-W2". This wiring schematic is for "HEATPUMP - 2 STG EMHT 1STG AUX HEAT". Does anyone know what this does and if the units and t-stat I have need this jumper to be cut to run.

I'm confused about the "HEATPUMP - 2 STG EMHT 1STG AUX HEAT" statement and what I really have - as far as stages etc.

You probably need a jumper between W1 and Y at the thermostat.

http://customer.honeywell.com/techlit/pdf/PackedLit/69-1486.pdf

PS: The tstat just went to obsolete status too.

Thank You. A brass jumper came with the t-stat. I removed it because I wired W1 at the stat to E/W1 in the air handler and Y at the stat to Y/Y2 in the air handler.
I assumed that the jumper would cause a short a another problem. Should I install the jumper with the wiring as noted?

Obsolete staus means what - not Honey well support? Should I replace it with something newer?

Thanks

If I put the jumper back in and leave the wiring as is will I short something - burn the transformer??

And thank you KeepIt, for the pdf link!

Watch out for the C and L terminal. All others are relatively safe.
If the furnace does not have a 3A automotive type fuse on the 24 VAC xformer considering adding one.

What terminals are on the air handler? Heat pump?

Thank you very much for taking the time to help me. I replaced the jumper that came with the tstat and all works very, very good. AC, Heat, Aux heat and Emerg heat.
I have some experience with all things mechanical and electrical but seem to be overly cautious and tend to overlook the small stuff.
I'm retired and on a shoe string budget, no SS yet to help so I'll have to offer my thanks and appreciation for you help.
Take care...

The terminology for HP's are a bit weird and aren't the same. HP's come in dual fuel models too.

The next issue is what's called balance points. At some outside temp the HP is useless (Emg heat). Between two other temps, you can have aux heat and the HP on at the same time. And at other outside temps, just the HP.

These can be controlled by the stat or the compressor unit. Some stats make it adjustable.

Dual fuel complicates the entire mess, because in that case Aux heat and the HP CANNOT be on at the same time.

Generally you can look at things this way. If only the heat strips are operating then you have "emergency heat". Cost is $$$. If you force a system to not use the HP, you have forced it into an "emergency heat" situation.

When the HP and the heat strips can be on at the same time, the strips are providing additional eat as in Auxiliary heat. The cost to use this mode is $$

When the HP is used alone, then the cost is $

The "balance point" used for one of the switchovers is when the HP exactly matches the house loss which will occur at some outdoor temperature. It's fine tuning of the system.

Dual-fuel is harder, because you need to take into account energy costs of the HP and Gas and determine the outdoor temperature where gas costs the same as the heat pump.

In some areas of Canada it's cheaper to heat with electric because hydroelectric power is really cheap.

I hope some of this helps. If you feel up to it, you can rate me.

You effectively got a closeout deal with the thermostat. Somebody has to do it.

wiring could be not done right low voltage from the tstat

When I put the tstat on air the heat comes on but it still on air.