I have a house built in 1890. During our kitchen & bath remodel I've had to cut out and replace the 2nd floor bathroom floor and joists. The new double joists are in. The old toilet flange is 15 1/2" from the wall. I want to move the toilet about 3''. The pipe for the toilet is a lead elbow going into 3 1/2'' OD cast iron. I'm thinking I need to cut the cast iron and splice in some PVC and then support the PVC. What's the best way to cut cast iron? A chain type cutter or will a sawzall do it?

Hi Dkelly...

The pics. Didn't show up, but you can tackle this issue in a number of different ways:

You can drill out the old lead ring at a cast iron hubbed joint using a 1/4" to 3/8" drill bit and then leverage the old lead ring out of the hub using a large flat screwdriver. You can then loosen the lead elbow and oakum out by shaking it up and down until all is removed. Then you could install a PVC MANHOFF fitting into the hub, pack in some oakum to within an inch of the top of the cast iron hub and then pack that space with a LEAD SUBSTITUTE... see images. You can easily install a PVC elbow to a closet flange and you're all set.

You could rent a ratchet type snap cutter at a local tool rental store and then attempt to cut the cast iron pipe a few inches (or more) behind the cast iron hub. You can then transition over to PVC using a CAST IRON x PVC SHIELDED CLAMP (see image). Install the fittings, etc...

You could also use a sawzall with a bimetal cutting sawzall blade... I recommend the 8" sawzall blade for 3" or 4" cast iron pipe... and cut a few inches (or more) behind the cast iron hub. I recommend this option for most people as it pretty much guarantees a good, clean... straight cut... ;) It's also the cheapest option if you own a sawzall. As above, you'll transition over to PVC using that shielded clamp I mentioned.

Be sure to hang the pipes well and be careful working with cast iron.

Let me know if you have questions.

MARK