Am trying to help out my neighbors boy with his 1992 Camaro RS that is overheating while his Army Dad is deployed. Looking for some help/advise. The boy had the car towed back to his house the other night after it overheated and the temp gauge went all the way to the RED and maxed out. First thing we did was put water in the radiator, thinking if we filled it and started the car, we'd find the leak. Well, the radiator began leaking in 3 places while filling it with the garden hose. OK, easy fix, just replaced the radiator. Did that and filled it up with water due to the son not having any antifreeze available to put in it, but he was going straight to the parts store to purchase some. Figured it would be OK to run it on just water until he could get the Antifreeze, drain the system and refill it. He called me from the parts store and told me the temp gauge had pegged out again just driving it 2 miles? Told him to refill it with water and bring it back home with a couple of containers of antifreeze in hand. Got the car back to his house and opened the hood, the reservoir was completely full and it was bubbling out the top of it. Let the car cool down, and removed the drain plug from the radiator and drained the fluid. The reservoir had by this time put the coolant back into the radiator, which went out with the draining process. Refilled the radiator with 50/50 mix of coolant and let it idle for 20 minutes. The temp gauge was continually rising and the cooling fan never came on? Had him turn on the air conditioner and the fan came on. He drove it around the block and came back, the reservoir was again filled to the top with bubbling collant. Had him turn on the heat with the fan speed on high, nothing but cool air coming in through the vents? Figured this was caused by no coolant in the radiator, thus none flowing into the heater core? We thought, problem with the thermostat not opening? All large hoses were extremely hot to the touch, and were pressurized, could barely squeeze them. Purchased another thermostat and replaced it, same problem. Could this be a problem with a faulty radiator cap, not holding up to enough pressure in the system to allow it to circulate, and fill the reservoir? The water pump was replaced 3 months ago due to it leaking fluid. I would appreciate any comments or help anyone can provide. Trying to help a neighbor out while he's off serving our country. Thanks! Bill

This link may help:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-3.html#post235973

Did you install a brand new radiator or one from salvage? No heat sounds like the heater core is blocked, due to corrosion or phosphate scale. Drain the system down enough, disconnect the heater hoses, and reverse flush the core.

This link deals with why the radiator fan may not be working:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-9.html#post1642158

This link provides perspective on temperature gauge problems:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-11.html#post2043857

Temporarily, remove the thermostat and see if the engine runs cold. If so, you may have isolated part of the problem.

The radiator was brand new, purchased from Advanced Auto. To add a little detail to the heater core problem, when I removed the radiator cap, there was not enough coolant in the radiator to even reach the hose connection that feeds the heater core, so I suspect because most of the coolant was in the reservoir and not in the radiator, that was the reason for no warm or hot air coming from the vents. I think if it can be determined why the coolant is going into the reservoir and not circulating through the radiator, this may fix the problem? I will troubleshoot the fan problem with the link you provided and let you know the outcome. I do appreciate your help, you've helped me before on a couple of occasions, and I GREATLY appreciate it! Thanks again!

To properly fill the cooling system, remove the radiator cap and fill the system with a 50/50 mixture of the proper antifreeze and distilled water. Add coolant, until the radiator and top radiator hose is completely filled. Remove and clean the overflow tank; then, add coolant to the FULL Line. This procedure should help prevent air pockets from forming. With the radiator cap turned only to the first stop, start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. Squeeze the top radiator hose, while the engine is running, to expel any entrapped air. Afterwards, tighten the radiator cap all the way.

Did the old radiator show signs of corrosion or phosphate scale build-up? Consider installing a "T" (made by Prestone) and reverse flushing the complete system with a garden hose. Afterwards, drain the system, including block drain plugs, and refill with coolant.

Luckily I have the old radiator in the back of my truck on the way to the dumpster. Looked down into the fill hole and it looks brand new inside, no buildup, corrosion or anything of any sort. Looked into the hole where the large hose connects on top that comes from the thermostat housing and it's a little gunky in there, sort of looks and feels like Go-Jo, not a tremendous amount, but enough to coat my finger when I stuck it in there to see what it was. When the boy comes home from school today, we're going to remove the thermostat and run it to ensure the water pump is for sure working and pumping the fluid, and will fill the radiator system as you directed and troubleshoot the problem with the fan. Do the auto parts stores have the ability to test radiator caps? Thanks again! Bill

Not that I know of. If he needs a new water pump, shop for price and warranty.

Looks like the problem has been resolved! After eliminating the water pump, radiator, thermostat and radiator cap, there was nothing left but a blown head gasket? The young owner did not have the funds to have the head gasket replaced at this time, we discussed the possibility of using a "Sealant" as a temporary fix until he can raise the money. He and his mom purchased a large bottle of "Blue Devil" leak Block Sealant and we followed the instructions to a "T"! Low and behold after idling for the full 50 minutes as directed on the container, the engine was cooling properly. No more over-heating or boiling over of the coolant into the reservoir! He drove the vehicle around for quite a while and it was operating normally. Prior to the Sealant add, it would have overheated within the first 2 miles. Thanks for all your input and advise, it was well taken and aided in getting the car back on the road again.

Glad you were able to be such a big help to the soldier's son. Nice job. I don't have any experience with those type of products but we get inquiries. Please keep us informed with the results, down the road.

Just an update to the Sealant we added to fix the head gasket problem, it's been over 2 months and the car is still running just fine, no overheating problems at all!

Thanks for the update--I'm glad it worked out so well for the soldier's son.