PDA

View Full Version : Obsolete AYP/Sears bearing


KISS
Feb 7, 2010, 04:21 PM
They appear to be seizing on me after use for an hour..

It's item #2 in this diagram

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getSubComp.pd?modelNumber=13181928&productCategoryId=1507200&brandId=0247&brandDescription=CRAFTSMAN&modelName=CRAFTSMAN-SNOW-THROWER,-20-IN.&diagramPageId=00002&componentDescription=AXLE%20SUPPORT%20ASSEMBLY&documentId=00027944&blt=06

For a Sears 131.81928 showblower

AYP bearing part #59251 obsolete

It fits into a 7/8 OD tube and the shaft is 1/2" and it can't be more than an inch long.

Since it's low speed for the drive wheels, I assume it's a sintered bronze bearing 1" long, 0.6280 OD (5/8 nominal) and 0.5015 ID (1/2" nominal) pressed in place.

This is only a guess because it's difficult to take things apart.

So, I could:

1. Take things apart and lightly sand and put back together. (I don't like this option)

2. Order sintered bronze bearings and ASSUME that's what they are.
(A few dollars each)

3. ASSUME they are sintered bronze bearings and order and hand adjustable reamer for about $25 and go from there.

4. Scrap the snow blower, but I like antiques. (1988 vintage). It has a Tecumseh H30 engine.

I tried lubercating WITHOUT taking things apart and they seized again.

Your thoughts?

Any idea what the specs are?

crigby
Feb 7, 2010, 06:40 PM
Hi,
Yes, no normal (OPE) channel worked so I went to the manufacturers. One would be:
http://www.asbbearings.com/catalog05.pdf
And:
C93200 Sleeve Bearings (http://www.anchormetals.com/bearings1.htm)
Or go to GlobalSpec and sign up for free and do a search.
Peace,
Clarke

KISS
Feb 7, 2010, 08:39 PM
Thanks Clarke:

Sourceing them isn't a problem, it's guessing what they are.

In reality. They aren't worn. More than likely the shaft is too rusty.

So, maybe the best option is to remove the shaft (not fun) and clean it up. Bronze generally doesn't corrode. It just oxidizes and is probably self limiting, but then the lubercation properties don't exist anymore.

So, maybe the best option is to ream.

crigby
Feb 7, 2010, 09:39 PM
Hi,
Just a thought but have you thought of befriending someone at your local commuity college? My best machinist came from there! I doubt I could afford him now! The instructors are self-centered by in large, but the students are receptive and open.
They can do it for grades and then give it to you; what a bargain especially if you can get spares.
Peace,
Clarke

KISS
Feb 7, 2010, 09:57 PM
I have the full complement of machinist's skills; lathe, mill, welding, silver soldering etc. when I had full access to a machine shop. I even ground my own lathe bits. I just need the shop.

Now I have a friend with a lathe about 45 min away which I could use if need be.

Good thought.

KISS
Feb 8, 2010, 07:19 PM
Spent the day in the driveway in 32F weather taking apart the drive system and running to and fro the hardware store to replace missing bolts and washers.

The 5/32 drift punch I got from True Value hardware was 0.006" too big. Got the correct one at Sears.

It wasn't too bad. Just cold. I didn't get to try it.

The shaft bearings were in good shape and they are sintered bronze. The nominal size is 9/16 ID, 11/16 OD and 1" long.

One bearing was trashed (less that 1/2 of it there), but it wasn't a drive one, so I can do without until I get one. I also need two thrust washers.

I believe the problem was end to end play; there wasn't any which makes me believe that the previous owner/servicer etc didn't assemble it right. I moved a very thin washer. Something like 0.010.

A 5/16 Belleville washer will fix another issue.

I need to find my rubber mallot.

I spent the last 30 minutes checking out Stock Drive Products and they appear to have the parts. I've used them before, too.