Hello all! I pick up my first puppy this week. She is a month old Siberian Husky with blue eyes - just adorable. At any rate I was hoping for some advice on training her and raising her. Anything you could give me would be helpful. I have done a lot of research on huskies in general - love to run, highly intelligent animals etc.

I realize this is going to be a challenge as this breed isn't as easily trainable as labs, golden retrievers and other household favorites. Thanks in advance for all your help and comments. I am looking forward to this exciting and challenging task. :)

Hey kc,congrats on the new arrival.

I just wondered about her age? 4 weeks is very young to be away from the mother.

hey kc,congrats on the new arrival.

i just wondered about her age? 4 weeks is very young to be away from the mother.

Thanks! I am buzzing with excitement. She got her first round of shots today. She was born on the 14th of Dec, so I guess she is a bit older than a month, but I am just kind of clueless on how to raise a puppy. My roommate helped raise on when he was in college (his roommate bought one), so he will be a huge help. Should I take her to a vet in the next week or so after I pick her up? I just feel lost here.

Its no harm to get her checked out with a vet,most pups need to be treated for worms and they will be able to advice you on when she needs her shots.

Find out what kind of food she is eating,so you can adjust her to the food you might be feeding her,or stick to the same.

The first few nights are hard for a pup,in the past I have used a clock,a warm blanket and a soft toy (check for eyes and tags that may be chewed off,remove first)

The sooner she knows to pee and poo outside the better,take her out often and lots of praise.

When you call her,as she is running towards you call her name,she'll get used to it and know you mean her.

Alty and shaz are your main women for this kind of stuff.

As regards crateing etc,you need the women in the know.

Can I ask what you called her?

I named her Macy - it is sort of a name after a football player I am a fan of. Thanks again for your help! I need all I can get. Do you let the pup sleep with you the first couple of nights, or do you immediately crate it?

I named her Macy - it is sort of a name after a football player I am a fan of. Thanks again for your help! I need all I can get. Do you let the pup sleep with you the first couple of nights, or do you immediately crate it?

We actually got a jack russel pup on Sunday,he spend last night in the kitchen,clock,blanket,a warm hot water bottle and a soft toy,he slept for most of the night,I got up 3 times to take him outside.

I guess the think to remember is she won't be small for long,do you want to sleep with a big husky beside you?

She will learn what's acceptable from you,where in the house she can go and where not to.

Its hard not to take them into bed when there young and crying,but it's a hard habit to break them from.

Love the name you gave her.

We picked frankie.

Typically the pups shouldn't be removed from the 'pack' until they are at least 8 weeks of age. Most states and provinces it is illegal to sell a pup less then 8 weeks of age.
So I can offer some advice on pups who leave the home too early.
They almost always end up with aggression issues, either towards humans or other dogs, they almost always have socialization issues, meaning that they become very hard to train and do not understand the pack leader mantality, they almost always think they are the pack leader, which feeds the aggression. Let me tell you from first hand experience a properly socialized puppy is well adjusted and makes a good companion. It is neither frightened by nor aggressive towards anyone or anything it would normally meet in day to day living. An un-socialized dog is untrustworthy and an unwanted liability. They often become fear-biters. Often they like to fight with other dogs. They are difficult to train and are generally unpleasant to be around. Unsocialized dogs cannot adapt to new situations and a simple routine visit to the vet is a nightmare not only for the dog itself, but for everyone involved.
So... if you have the option, wait until they are 8 weeks of age or older.
If you are going to get the puppy anyway... make sure you crate train from the beginning, this will help with potty training. Take you pup to puppy classes, and start socializing ASAP. And make sure you get the pups vet reccords, if they can not supply these, chances are they have not had their routine checkups or vaccines. Check out your local library for some helpful books, try to stick with the most uup to date, as dog training has come along way in the past 10 years. Ask you vet about good reading material they can recommend, as well as OBEDIENCE classes. Get him enrolled as soon as he turns 8 weeks. But please start puppy socialization classes as soon as you get him.

How long should I crate train? Also there are now some grass training pads that apparently help the puppy learn to utilize grass for the bathroom (made for indoor use). I guess they smell like fresh cut grass... I was told to always give positive reinforcement when I notice the puppy doing something right, especially like going to the bathroom outside. What other things should I do in order to help potty train better - and have you heard about these grass pads and their ability to work?

The socialization classes are a good idea, thanks! We also have a younger female lab who is a sweetheart, so hopefully some of her good habits will rub off on the pup.

Ijust wanted to add,to puppy proof the house,loose wires,low tables,etc.

Give her chew toys,and be firm when you tell her 'no' to chewing the furniture,shoes,chairs,tables, doors,toes etc!

You should probably always use the crate, is it the safest place for pups and dogs while you are not home. If you feel comfortable blocking off a small area while you are away than that's a good idea as well. You will need to crate train right up until she gets the idea of using the potty out doors. My dog is 5 and still needs to be crated while I am away. But I have a 10 year old who learned very quickly to not mess in the house. This will also help with teething and chewing. Make sure to get losts of Nyla bones, kongs, and puppy toys, as well as those water bottles that go in the cage for dogs. Remember she WILL have accidents in her cage at first, Her bladder is very small, and she has little to no control over it at this age. What size cage will you bestarting with? I have never used those grass things, personally I think it's a bit gimmiky, but hey, if it helps them learn their job faster, then by all means try it out. I was never one for letting my dogs use the potty in doors anyway, I always steerd clear of puppy pads and the likes. It's easier if they learn to go out side from the very beginning instead of doing it in 2 separate steps.
Positive reinforcement will be your best bet, especially since you want to be extra careful your new pup isn't fearful of you or others. When you take your dog outside it doesn't hurt to do a little but of extra excercising when out there, they will be more likely to use the bathroom then. Remember she is still so young, and she will have mistakes. It's a good idea to not allow her to sleep in the same bed as you in the beginning, unless that is where you want her to always sleep. I would put the crate in your room to start and slowly move it further away until it is at it's final destination. Try not to over load her with commands, start with the basics, and work your way up. But start now, they are very receptive at a young age. And I really can't stress enugh about the puppy socialization classes!
Good luck!
Any pic's?

To elaborate on how long to crate for, just remember house breaking is only half the battle! You still have to help prevent chewing and speration anxiety, which she may have some issues with due to leaving mom at such a young age. The crate will work wonders for that! Redhead gave some good tips with the radio left on low, toys, blankets or even a ticking clock.

I actually found an 11 week old that I may have interest in instead. She seems more appropriately socialized and such, being a little older. The more I think about getting such a young pup and the problems it may have for leaving early, the more I may change my mind to this 11 week old pup. Here is a pic of the older one:

That is a gorgeous dog!
I really hope you do consider getting an older pup. Where are you getting the pup from?
Make sure to bring her in for a visit to the vet to make sure she is worm and flea free! :)
But she is a gorgeous pup!

I actually found an 11 week old that I may have interest in instead. She seems more appropriately socialized and such, being a little older. The more I think about getting such a young pup and the problems it may have for leaving early, the more I may change my mind to this 11 week old pup. Here is a pic of the older one:

The 11 week old is adorable. :)

Read up on the breed and her coat. Talk to other Husky owners in your area. Check out the Siberian Husky Club where you live. They will have information and tips about raising a husky in your climate.

Huskies really need for you to remember who the pack leader is. It is not the dog. She will be a great companion as long as you give her the exercise that she is going to need and you remember that training is a 24/7 job. It isn't just when you have a leash on her or in a certain area.

Beware of using the 'no' word too much. If over used it will only confuse her as to what you really want. Instead, give her words to associate things with like sit, wait, lay, down, take, give, drop, etc. Give her clear boundaries from the very beginning about where she is allowed to go and how she is allowed to act around people (jumping up on people should be discouraged from the start. Might be cute now, but in six months it won't be quite as adorable).

Give her toys that encourage her to use her brain. A bored husky is a destructive husky.

Congrats kc, Huskies are beautiful dogs!

I would definitely go for the 11 week old. A month old pup is barely eating solid foods and would end up being a lot more trouble than it's worth.
I won't give you my normal big speel but lets just say anyone who sells a 4 week old puppy to someone has rocks for brains ;)

You've been given some excellent advice already so I don't have much more to add unless you have any specific questions.

When you get your pup make sure the first thing you do is get its microchip (if it has one, if it doesn't get one!) registered to your name. Huskies are escape artists and if they get out will just run and run and run, it's what they were bred for and you want to make sure if someone picks her up they know where she belongs.
That's worst case scenario though, if you have good fences then that shouldn't happen :)

You will also need a slicka brush, and a comb. Huskies shed coat from September to March and then March to September, but if you keep on top of the brushing (just 5 minutes a day) then it's no problem.

I also would definitely suggest going with the older puppy as well.

I would like to add that you may need to check any local breed laws and bans though, as well as your home insurance. Siberian Huskies may have restrictions depending on where you live.

I've owned and raised husky puppies and I would definitely suggest crate training as well. I did not use a crate for my first husky but did on my second and I can honestly say that the crate really made a difference for me in training.

Huskies also love to dig so be prepared for a yard that looks like a fall-out happened. ;)

Tigger, Go for the one in the pic. The markings are absolutely striking.

Another thing, as experienced as you are with raising puppies, the older one will be a better fit for you.

Tips on housebreaking - If you see them starting to squat or hike their leg, get them outside right then to get them used to going outside to go. Even if you pick her up after she's started, she needs to go outside every time. Accidents will happen, no big deal, but she needs to go outside every time. When she does, attention and praise and treats are the order of the day.

Get odor neutralizing cleaner on the way to pick the puppy up! Use it on every accident as quickly as possible so the puppy's scent doesn't mark a spot.

KC, definitely go with the 11 week old, this dog will be more easy to train, better socialized, easier all around.

Do not buy those stupid puppy fake grass training pads, unless you want the pup to pee and poo in the house only. If you want to outdoor train (which is best) then this will only lead to confusion. Consistency and lots of praise and she'll catch on in no time at all.

Huskies are dogs that are bred to work, so keeping her busy is the best, as others have mentioned. Lots of exercise, toys that will challenge her, lots of training and time. This is not the type of dog that you can just leave to its own devices, you need to be diligent at all times.

I'm so happy for you. Know that we're all here to offer advice whenever you need it. Also, we demand pictures, lots of pictures! ;)

Thank you all again for your help. As far as crate training, should I keep her in it at night, or just when she will be alone. I was raised around huskies (had two as a child) so I always slept with them in my bed, but I didn't know if it was appropriate for pups to sleep with you - would they pee and such in the bed? What things should be in the crate at all times? Bedding, some water and chew toys?

I am going shopping either tonight or tomorrow night for pup toys, food, crate and other things. If there is anything else you can think of, let me know. I will also buy pet stain/odor spray as well and anything else I may need to help with this.

It is also widely known that these dogs are extremely intelligent and leaving them bored is leads to destruction. What kinds of toys can I buy to challenge her? It's been so long since I gone toy shopping for pups.

I would start with some Nyla bones and kongs. Puppies should always have access to fresh water. Personally I think if you want your dog to sleep in your bed all the time, then it's up to you if you want her to sleep in your bed straight away. She more then likely will have a mess or two on the bed, but most dogs don't like to go where they sleep. (well at least mine don't :P) Becareful that you don't roll on her, and watch for excess blankets around her that could smother her. But if you want her to learn her bed is the crate, then that's where you need to start. She probably won't like the crate to begin with, so make sure you start training right away. Make sure you give lots of praise, and try to luer (spelling? ) her in the crate with treats, but don't close the door right away. Let her get used to the idea of being in there. Make sure to NOT use the crate as punishment. It needs to be a happy place.
And your right on with the stuff that should always be in the crate. I don't have too much experience with Huskies, but it looks like the other posters gave some excellent advice on them. I would suggest, along with any new puppy, lots of exercise, and remember to start the training right away.

I would definitely crate of a night as a puppy.
Mine are both quite happy in their crates, they see at as their 'den' and know its bed time when they go in there.
I have been a bit naughty lately and let them out on the bed with us... you wouldn't think 2 small dogs could take up so much room :rolleyes:

It's up to you whether you let her sleep on the bed with you when she's older, but for now, until potty training is finished I would be crating.

Challenging toys for a husky would be kongs or other similar 'puzzle' toys. Peanut butter is a good filling.
Squeekys are always a favourite, mine will quite happily sit there and squeek away for ages, throwing the toy around.

I would definitely crate of a night as a puppy.
Mine are both quite happy in their crates, they see at as their 'den' and know its bed time when they go in there.
I have been a bit naughty lately and let them out on the bed with us... you wouldn't think 2 small dogs could take up so much room :rolleyes:

It's up to you whether you let her sleep on the bed with you when she's older, but for now, until potty training is finished I would be crating.

Challenging toys for a husky would be kongs or other similar 'puzzle' toys. Peanut butter is a good filling.
Squeekys are always a favourite, mine will quite happily sit there and squeek away for ages, throwing the toy around.

I think I will try and crate her at night, but maybe keep the crate in my room so she doesn't feel lonely. Good idea for now? As Red suggested, maybe put some soft light music on for her, a warm blanket and water... just make her relaxed and comfortable.

Also what kinds of treats could I give her as a positive reinforcement tool? I assume chewy treats, that way when I see her use the bathroom outside I can give one to her?

Does anyone have any general tips on acting like the alpha pack leader? I should walk through doors before her, eat before feeding her, make sure I end up with the toy and not her... that kind of thing. (This is all research I have looked up). Has anyone done this and does it work?

Another stupid question: When will she be old enough to get spayed? She can't get pregnant now can she?

Note: Sorry for all the questions, but you guys are the experts here and I just want to soak up as much info as possible.

It is also a good idea to take her outside once she eats, right? That way she can do her business and earn praise immediately?

I have my dogs crates in the bedroom with us.
That way if they cry I can give them a grumpy "uh-uh" or "no" and they usually quiet down.
Putting a blanket over the crate helps too, makes them feel more secure.

Being the alpha can take time, what you have said is great. Obedience training is another great way to establish yourself as leader. It gets the dog to listen to you and focus on what you are telling them to do.

I don't spay until 6 months old. It can be done earlier but there are more risks with a young puppy.
They don't usually come in season (heat) until after 6 months (larger breeds come in later)

As soon as she wakes up and right after she eats or drinks is the best time to rush her outside to potty.
When training I take mine out every hour (unless they are sleeping) just to make sure there are no accidents inside, and praise like heck when they go outside.

For rewards I use beef jerky... not the people kind but one made specifically for dogs (it's not salty or anything) you can buy it from pet stores or supermarkets. But really any type of food will do as long as its made for dogs... if the pup likes dry kibble then use that as treats, if she likes vegetables then use those.

I would avoid rawhide and pig products like smoked ears. They can actually form a ball in the dogs stomach after being eaten and cause blockages.

Some people stand by the alpha pack leader,from what I have been taught it's kind of gone by the way side, the man who frased that saying was doing research on wild wolves, and in fact said it was more about the wolf pack mantality then the domesticated dog,(will seaqrch for article later tonight and post) how ever it is good to let your dog know that you are boss. One of the protocols for deference is to make your dog sit and look to you for everything. So yes, you would go through the door first, and she sits and waits for you, then she follows. She sits and waits for you to give her her food, she sits before you pet her, she sits before ANYTHING. Now this is only ONE method of training, and you may not need to go that drastic. I would suggest finding a local trainer and enrolling, and you will find something that you are comfortable with.
For treats I buy liver and hearts, BBQ them cut them in small pieces and freeze them. I use her kibble when I am training. My dog works for her food, but that is because we are going through behaviour modification.
Part of Positive reinforcement would be giving her a treat every time she goes out side during the potty training time.
It's always best to spay before first heat cycle. Most dogs go through their first heat cycle between five and six months of age, and that is normally the best time to spay your dog.

I found this article to be very helpful, not the one I was looking for, but non the less makes some ggod points.
Dr. C.W. Meisterfeld - Professional Canine Psychotherapist (http://www.dogwhisper.com/book_review-alpha.html)

Don't be thrown off by the cheesieness of the web page. It really has some good info on it! :)

KC, I found this a while ago and I sure wish that I had found it when we first got Chewy, maybe then the crate training would have been less stressful.

It's a dog toy but it heat up and makes a heartbeat sound. This can really help calm a pup down. Remember that she's used to sleeping with her mom and her litter mates, to all of a sudden be alone can be very scary for a young pup. This is a great surrogate.

Puppy Toy With Heartbeat- Heartbeat Puppy Toy, Heartbeat Dog Toy, Puppy Toys, Dog Heart Beat (http://www.sassypup.net/Comfort-Pals-Puppy-Dog-Toy-hear-the-sound-of-a-mothers-heartbeat-p-16389.html)

I have no idea if these toys are available in pet stores, but it's something I would check for when you go to buy your supplies.

Also, a puppy game cube (no, not what you're thinking ;)) is great. It's a plastic cube. You put treats or dry kibble inside. The dog has to flip the cube a certain way in order to make the kibble come out. It's a great way to challenge them and it kept our border collie (also a very smart breed) busy for hours and out of trouble while we were away.

I love the Kong. They come in different sizes so make sure you start with a smaller one then move on to a bigger one when she's full grown. You want her to be able to carry it around. You can fill up the middle with treats and she'll spend a lot of time trying to get them out. Also, the rubber is really good for a teething pup, better then your couch. ;)

I'll post more as I think about it. Our last puppy is now 1 1/2 years old so all this puppy stuff is still a bit fresh in my mind, but not enough that I can pull it out of my head without thinking about it first, especially on only one cup of coffee. :)

KC, I will say this about the pup sleeping in bed with you (if you still think it might be an okay idea): you are a young male and you will have relationships, do you want your happy husky kicking your human playmate out of bed? Best not to let her get into any habits that might cause issues later when she is full grown.

I don't put water in the crate. You can't tell if the pup kicked the bowl or had an accident. Either way the bedding gets wet and uncomfortable. This is not what you want her to think about the crate.

A dish on the way out the door or in a certain spot is the way we have water available. A drink, a few minutes exploration of the house, and then it's outside for a wee. When she comes back in after all the praise and play for "going" outside, she can go straight into the crate to wipe her paws if you have it placed by the back door.

With my puppy I found puppy socialization classes to be amazing, and also he went to obedience classes for a year, I must say I learned much more than he did! We learned everything from walking through the door first, eating first, which side to hold the leash on, and that your dog should not heal their whole walk they should be able to have some "free time" but they should always leave home and return home heeling.
I talked to my vet about crate training and what not and she talked it over with me, as well as gave me some pamphlets which really helped.

As a puppy my dog was crated during the night in my room, now he sleeps in my room, if he's good on the bed(The pack leader is supposed to sleep on higher ground than the others), I now only crate him when I leave. I 100% agree with crate training, when my dog is away from home for long periods when we get home the first thing he does is open is crate door and has a nap.
Congratulations on the new puppy! :)

KC, I will say this about the pup sleeping in bed with you (if you still think it might be an okay idea): you are a young male and you will have relationships, do you want your happy husky kicking your human playmate out of bed? Best not to let her get into any habits that might cause issues later when she is full grown.

Had to spread the rep, but really good point:) Our dogs are small and sleep with us, but we made that choice.:rolleyes: There is no way they would understand sleeping some where else at this point.

Had to spread the rep, but really good point:) Our dogs are small and sleep with us, but we made that choice.:rolleyes: There is no way they would understand sleeping some where else at this point.

Our dogs sleep with us too, and boy do I get a sad look when they're kicked out of the room so hubby and I can have some private time.

Cats is right though, there's nothing that spoils the moment quite like the feel of a wet tongue on your ankle when your partner is kissing your lips. ;)

Yup, not to mention the butt cheek.
:(

Yup, not to mention the butt cheek.
:(

Now I know this is KC's thread.

Just found this thread, congrats KC, the huskie is beautiful.

Btw, I agree with Cats and crate training is great for dogs. Especially if you find out your dog has odd nightly behaviors, like night terrors or snoring. Dogs are just as happy in a crate.

Im going to go out on the limb here and say that... Its not impossible to raise a 4 week old puppy. It just all depends on how much time you want to invest into a dog. If you get a 4 week old puppy, be prepared to do a lot of mothering. My rott/pit mix was 4 weeks when I got her, and she doesn't have any behavioral issues. She's very sure of herself and loves the world. I was in high school at the time, so when I left, my mom held her ALL DAY, and when I got home, I held her all night long. So its not impossible, but not ideal either.

That puppy is very stunning... She'll be awesome looking as an adult. I'm very familure with high energy breeds, huskies are one of them. The key to keeping them happy, is keeping them tired. If you do go with the 11wk old puppy, wait a couple of weeks after you get her, then sign up for classes. Stimulate her mind as much as you can. I'm not a fan of kongs, mainly because my dogs don't even look twice at them, but they do keep some dogs entertained.

Crate training is ideal! I already see that others have informed you of a crate as well.. It will probably be the best tool to house training! Think of the crate as a crib... puppy is safe there and can't get into any trouble. To help prevent separation anxiety... don't be afraid to put puppy in the crate by itself for awhile. If you don't want to deal with the puppy or you're too busy to keep an eye on her, then put her in the crate. Its going to teach the dog that you come back all the time. Don't go running to her every time she cries while in the crate... I'm not certain, but I have a feeling that is what causes separation anxiety. You need time to yourself sometimes, and the dog needs to respect and adhere to that.

Be sure to put your pup on a good food. Wellness, Innova and Natural Balance are my choice selections... but there are so many more out there to choose from..

Be sure to socialize your pup real good. Any time you need to go someplace that is a quick "in and out", take your puppy. They learn how to behave in public and how to accept strangers. Be sure to not put your puppy on the ground at any time... Your puppy may be vaccinated, but the parvo virus is mutating *at least in my area* and puppies that have had all 3 shots are becoming parvo positive. Parvo can take your pup within hours... The vet work has improved, but its just not worth the risk.. A lot of parvo survivors have long term issues.

Try not to leave puppy home alone too much. When she gets older, I'd highly recommend enrolling in doggie daycare at least once a week. It keeps your dog socialized, and breaks up the dogs routine. You'll have a happier dog in the long run :)

Oh... and Huskies are extremely smart... You just have to be one step ahead of them at all times... Most working dogs that were bred to work close with humans are EXTREMELY intelligent and can accomplish anything you put in front of them.

Im going to go out on the limb here and say that... Its not impossible to raise a 4 week old puppy. It just all depends on how much time you want to invest into a dog.

It's not impossible, but in most states it is illegal for a "breeder" to sell a 4 week old puppy. I use the term breeder loosely because I don't know one legitimate breeder that would even think about selling a puppy that young.

Yes it is illegal here in Colorado... I got Kaia from a guy who was giving away puppies because the mom had mastitis... Instead of treating mama, they got rid of the puppies. Kaia was the runt... I felt bad for her. So I took her.

As we left, the "breeder" mentioned they wanted me create that mix again (rot and pit)... Made me sad.

I've called animal control on many "box" puppies for being sold at such a young age. Its funny how over half the people I have come across who sell their 4 week old puppies as "at least 7 weeks" are always being sold on Sunday. I think those particular people know how the system works. I feel bad for those pups that are heading into this world that were bought as an impulse.

The worst part is that the majority of people that end up buying the 4 week old puppy don't have a clue how to properly care for a dog that young. Most of them end up dying, others are always sickly and maladjusted, those that are lucky are few and far between.

My husband works with a guy that told me he never gets a puppy over 5 weeks old because he stupidly thinks that a younger puppy means that it will imprint on him and make it more loyal. These aren't geese, they're puppies!

I got so mad that I almost hit him. My husband actually had to restrain me because no matter how many facts I gave this guy he just sat there with a smug face "I've had dogs all my life, you can't tell me what to do". My response "I've had hair all my life, doesn't make me a hairdresser any more then it makes you an expert on dogs you dumba$$!"

Worst part, his wife works at Petsmart, a pet store that claims never to sell puppies, only rescue dogs, yet they had a litter of 5 week old puppies there not more then a few months ago.

I need a large parcel of land, a shovel and a good lawyer! ;)

I need a large parcel of land, a shovel and a good lawyer! ;)

Get a backhoe, they have heaters for wintertime.

Hahaha Altenweg! People like that are ignorant, they are probably idiots in other aspects of life as well.

Lucky, I was telling the OP that it wasn't a good idea to get a 4 week old puppy because it is more likely that dogs who leave their pack before 8 weeks have higher tendencies to be aggressive and have behaviour problems. Not that all dogs do, but most do.
I then gave ideas on how to avoide that problem.
The way humans treat their puppy's and the way a pup is treated in it's 'pack' environment are completley different. You are lucky that your situation ended the way it did.
I was on maternity leave when I adopted a 3 week old pup, who ended up with SEVER aggression and fear biting issues. My story did not end so well.
Supporting people who sell or give away 4 week old puppy's is being a part of the problem.

I'm not supporting anyone who sells 4wk old puppies... just stating that its not impossible to do. My puppies aren't even allowed to leave to there new homes until the puppies are 12wks. There have been many people who slammed the phone down upset because they're under the impression that in order to have a strong bond with a dog it needs to be purchased at 4wks.

I don't support the idea of people buying infant puppies... just stating that its not impossible to do depending on how much time you want to invest in a puppy. With kaia, she wanted to be held constantly. When she turned 8wks, she became more adventurous... it was almost like a premature born baby.

But I do not in any way support 4wk old puppies being sold because I do know a lot of behavior problems follow that. Anytime I get the chance I try and educate people on why.

I once read that there was a study in cali. A litter was born and one of the puppies was displaying strange behavior. A study was conducted on that pup for up to 6 months. The study showed this pup was showing behaviors equal to a person who exibited psychopathic behavior. She was overly aggressive towards littermates and humans. The dog ended up being put down due to severe anxiety and aggression at 6months of age. The puppies and mom were all kept together, no one was isolated in a white room... but I thought that was interesting...

Yes all cases aren't the same. Just like a person growing up with their parents having good jobs, coming from a "rich" area of town, having an education, doesn't mean they will nesessarly excel to their fullest potential as a human. There are exceptions to every rule. I was just advising, while not impossible, it's usually not the best idea.

Update: So I got the pup a couple of weeks ago. I am already starting to feel like this was a huge mistake. I never realized the amount of work that goes into this. I have little patience to deal with her in the morning as well... she always starts to cry and wake me up once someone else in the house gets up - feels like she is missing out on something I guess. At any rate, I get irritated and it starts my day off badly. She won't eat from her dog bowl unless I put her food in the bigger dog's bowl... I have gotten rough with her a couple of times and it breaks my heart (I don't mean I have hit her, just jerked her a little bit - or smacked her on the nose a couple of times)... I have zero problem putting up with her at night, but it seems like in the mornings we always get started on the wrong foot. I feel like a total failure right now... my parents babysit her during the day so I don't have to kennel her (too young for that right now). So I get her on the nights and weekends. I just don't know what to do to get her to become more behaved towards me. When she is old enough (another month) I am enrolling her in obedience courses to help us bond... but right now it is all I can do to not pull my hair out. Any advice or help?

I just feel like a lot of my time is spent telling her no and pushing her away from certain things.

Well, that's puppy's for you. Didn't you realize that puppy's are a lot of work? Didn't you read all the things people posted especially about husky puppy's?
She is like a little baby, and she needs guidance and care, and love.
All puppy's wake up early, their bladders are small and they have little to no control over them. She probably needs to go pee. Which is a really good thing that she is waking you up to let you know. She IS doing her job as a puppy. The more hatful you become of this, thebetter your chances are of having a troublesome dog. A puppy is a life style change, just like a baby.
Remember hitting her and getting rough or violent is only going to cause her to be fearful of you, not respectful. When she becomes fearful she will have more tendencies to fear bite, become aggressive or cower when ever you are around. Would you want to live with someone you feard? Wondering if you do the wrong thing you were going to get hit?
She is going to be mischevous, and rambunctious, and playful, that's the joys of owning a puppy.
I hate waking up at 5 am EVERY morning to take my dog for a walk to pee and get some excersise before she is crated for the day. But guess what? It needs to be done.

Puppies are work, they can really be worth it in the end, but it can be a struggle. Of course, without the struggle in puppihood, you would not have a well behaved dog.

How are your parents dealing with her during the day? Where are you crating her? Can it be in another part of the house where she doesn't readily wake to morning movements until you are ready for her morning routine?

Puppies are work, they can really be worth it in the end, but it can be a struggle. Of course, without the struggle in puppihood, you would not have a well behaved dog.

How are your parents dealing with her during the day? Where are you crating her? Can it be in another part of the house where she doesn't readily wake to morning movements until you are ready for her morning routine?

She is crated at night in my room. She is awesome in her crate and loves to sleep. It is just a matter of hearing the other dog get up and she starts going nuts because she wants to go play with the other dog (although the other dog is much more mature and doesn't play in the same manner). I guess I am just struggling to understand her and work with her... it is a learning experience for both of us.

She is a super fast learner though. She already alerts me to go outside by going directly to the back door. I have also gotten her used to being walked a bit... smart dog she is.

Hey I didn't write in here syaing how frustrated I was because my PUPPY wakes up in the morning.
I was giving you some advice captain Rude-o.
Not sure where you get the snarky-butt attitude from, but it sucks.
Sorry you're on the defensive.

KC, you aren't a failure. You are new puppy owner who is learning with his puppy. At least you realize you need help.

Here's a command that you can start working on with her right now: Leave it.

Start with having a treat in one hand (she will not be getting this treat). Have a another hidden treat in your other hand (this is the treat she will be getting). Show her your closed hand with the 'bait' treat in it. Let her smell it (if she tries to mouth your hand, take your hand away) and tell her to 'Leave it' when she takes her nose away from your hand give her the 'hidden treat'. Keep doing that until you are sure she won't grab at the 'bait'. Then progress through open hand and even putting it on the floor, etc. You can slowly phase out the treats as it becomes habit. Once she learns the command you can use it for other items. Animals, etc. Get your parents to help with it. Remember she NEVER gets the 'bait'.

Hey I didn't write in here syaing how frustrated I was becasue my PUPPY wakes up in the morning.
I was giving you some advice captain Rude-o.
Not sure where you get the snarky-butt attitude from, but it sucks.
Sorry you're on the defensive.

I deleted that post after I thought about it. I wasn't trying to offend.

Since you couldn't clearly read my post or the intention behind it, I'll explain. I am not frustrated my puppy wakes up - there is a deeper issue here of which you clearly cannot see. I was asking advice on how to be more patient with her and maybe get her to be more receptive to proper behavior - also on forms of disciplining her so that she will learn what things aren't acceptable.

If that is the way you are going to give advice, do it elsewhere. While the thought may count, I don't need your pretentious attitude while expressing your thoughts. You have been more than helpful in your previous posts, so if you can revert back to that, then good. This is all new to me so the, "I told you so attitude" won't work - I'm not some five year old you're talking to.

KC, you aren't a failure. You are new puppy owner who is learning with his puppy. At least you realize you need help.

Here's a command that you can start working on with her right now: Leave it.

Start with having a treat in one hand (she will not be getting this treat). Have a another hidden treat in your other hand (this is the treat she will be getting). Show her your closed hand with the 'bait' treat in it. Let her smell it (if she tries to mouth your hand, take your hand away) and tell her to 'Leave it' when she takes her nose away from your hand give her the 'hidden treat'. Keep doing that until you are sure she won't grab at the 'bait'. Then progress through open hand and even putting it on the floor, etc. You can slowly phase out the treats as it becomes habit. Once she learns the command you can use it for other items. animals, etc. Get your parents to help with it. Remember she NEVER gets the 'bait'.

Cat I am deeply touched by your constant help. Thank you so much. I think this sounds marvelous.

To recap, she is actually pretty good about not chewing on certain things that would clearly be unacceptable - electrical chords, couches, etc. I must admit that she learns rather quickly, but she also tries to manipulate as well. If she does chew on these things I quickly pull her mouth away and replace a chewing toy in the place of the items... then I praise her for chewing on her toy.

I will try that training method, it sounds ingenious. I think she would be receptive to this.

**I acknowledge that I am making mistakes and that I want to learn how to be a better owner.

Does anyone have an idea of how to get her to eat out of her foodbowl? It is almost like she feels a constant need to dominate the bigger Lab.

To recap, she is actually pretty good about not chewing on certain things that would clearly be unacceptable - electrical chords, couches, etc. I must admit that she learns rather quickly, but she also tries to manipulate as well. If she does chew on these things I quickly pull her mouth away and replace a chewing toy in the place of the items...then I praise her for chewing on her toy.


You know I will give whatever help I can. :)

She sounds like a positively wonderful puppy. If she hasn't already, she may be learning that going after certain things gets your attention. Unfortunately, that is one problem that is hard to correct once they get into the habit, because ANY reaction is seen as 'attention'. Hopefully, the leave it command will distract her from actually getting into things she shouldn't.

Intelligent animals are great to work with, but hard to stay ahead of. I know you can do it. Just keep taking deep breaths and keep your sense of humor. Sometimes a good laugh helps relieve a lot of tension that can build up when you feel frustrated.

Hi KC. I'm so sorry that you're having a hard time with this. I'm not surprised though. Puppies are hard work and it takes some time to adjust, especially since this is your first puppy where you are responsible for everything.

I do have an idea about the feeding issue. At this time she needs to learn boundaries. Do not let her eat in the same room with the lab right now. She needs to learn her place and it's up to you to show her. Feed her in a separate room and always feed her after the lab has eaten and after you have eaten. The dominant dogs eat first and to her you are a dog, you want to establish that you are top dog. Also make her work for her food. Something as simple as telling her to sit (after teaching her that command) and then making her stay in the sit position until you allow her to eat. This will take some time though.

Dogs are pack members. Everything you do shows her what position she is in the pack. Dogs also need a pack leader. If no one steps up to that position she will. Because most dogs aren't leaders, this will cause her stress. But she cannot be a well rounded dog without a leader. You have to take on that role.

There are so many things you can do to make this happen, too much for me to write here. I will give you some tips that I hope will help.

First, screaming, hitting or losing your patience will only make her afraid. It won't teach her a thing. It's like you're working with someone that cannot see or hear. Screaming means nothing to her, she doesn't understand what you're saying. She needs to learn what you expect from her by repetition and praise. You said that she already asks to go outside to pee. How did you accomplish that? Think about it. I'm guessing you showed her what you want and praised her when she did it. She associated going pee outside with affection from you. She really is eager to please you, all dogs are. Patience is key.

Remember, puppies do grow up to be dogs. What you do now will shape what she can become. I promise that this stage won't last forever. I know it can often be frustrating, I've had many puppies, but before you know it, she'll be a dog and you'll actually miss the puppy stage. ;)

If you get frustrated, do what all parents do, walk away, count to ten, calm down and then deal with the situation when you're calm. Being calm but assertive is very important, dogs can sense how we feel and they react to that. Try hard not to let your frustration show, but, if you do, don't be too hard on yourself. Dogs live in the moment, make every moment count. :)

I hope this helps a little bit.

You know I will give whatever help I can. :)

She sounds like a positively wonderful puppy. If she hasn't already, she may be learning that going after certain things gets your attention. Unfortunately, that is one problem that is hard to correct once they get into the habit, because ANY reaction is seen as 'attention'. Hopefully, the leave it command will distract her from actually getting into things she shouldn't.

Intelligent animals are great to work with, but hard to stay ahead of. I know you can do it. Just keep taking deep breaths and keep your sense of humor. Sometimes a good laugh helps relieve a lot of tension that can build up when you feel frustrated.

I still remember the first time we left Indy alone for a few hours. He was around 4 months old and we went to a friends place. We were gone 3 hours or so and we have closed off the kitchen so he couldn't get into anything.

Well, he escaped. When we got home he had chewed up the blown out painted easter eggs that we had made (I still don't know how he got them off the dining table), 5 remote controls and a phone. I was furious! I yelled, because I was mad and that's what humans do. He was so scared that he peed and then ran upstairs.

R and I cleaned up the mess, calmed down. At this point I hadn't see the phone that he chewed up. So, calm and collected I went upstairs to find Indy. He was on my bed, the phone in his mouth, happily chewing away. I once again got upset, raised my voice "Indy, drop that!" and he peed all over my bed.

R came upstairs, saw the phone, was about to yell when I quietly said "Don't. He'll pee even more. We've scared him. Take him outside to see if he's done peeing".

After cleaning the bedding I started to laugh. It was our fault, not his. We should have crated him, and we should have kept our calm.

I still have one of the remotes he chewed up. Now that he's 14 years old, I really miss those puppy days. He can barely get up the stairs now. I wish he'd go after the remote and the phone, just to show some spunk. ;)

I find myself saying this more often, how can you tell what my attitude was?
See that's the problem with typing, you can't READ emotion.
I am sorry that it came of as pretentious, that was NOT was I was aiming for. So, sorry again.
So I will put my feelings aside, even though I feel that I need to defend Myself now, I won't. But I will mention, that I was only trying to explain the re precussions of hitting a dog out of frustration. Maybe I could have worded it better, but I wanted to be blunt.
So, the best things about puppy's are how receptive they can be.
But one thing that caught my eye was how you said she won't eat unles you put her food in the big dogs dish, this COULD be an early sign of dominence, which you will need to nip now.
I am a stikcler for protocols for relaxation and deference. What Cat suggested is a great start. I would start with the sit command right now. So to teach her to sit (with out forcing her to) take your kibble or treat and put it above her nose so she has to look up at it, but keep it close to her face, slowly move it back wards so she kind of falls on her bottom, the result being her sitting, this is where LOTS of praise and reward comes in. You can do this all day long, but make sure to give pleanty of rest in between. I like to start with puppy's training for 5 minutes, then rest and play drink of water etc, wait a bit and then go again.
It IS frustrating when they don't comprehend what you want, but basically they just don't speak english :)
It could take one day or 2 weeks, but once you get the sit command down, make her sit for everything. Sit before she gets fed, sit before she walks, sit before she gets pet, before a treat, etc etc. There is a great web site on the protocols for defernece and relaxation. I will find it and post it later. It's mainly used for behavior modification, but will work for pretty much anything. It's great because it is the fisrt thing you learn in behavior mod, and you can do it from home.
Do you walk her when you get home from work? Does she get lots ofplay time before bed with the other dog?

KC, you are a new parent now. Single father if you will. You will learn patience and the bond will come.

For a while there will be irritating changes to your routine, but I bet you could welcome them into your life for the time being. I don't have lots of time, but I know you can do this.

I find my self saying this more often, how can you tell what my attitude was?
See that's the problem with typing, you can't READ emotion.
I am sorry that it came of as pretentious, that was NOT was I was aiming for. So, sorry again.
So I will put my feelings aside, even though I feel that I need to defend MY self now, I won't. But I will mention, that I was only trying to explain the re precussions of hitting a dog out of frustration. Maybe I could have worded it better, but I wanted to be blunt.


Sorry to go off topic, here, but I think this needs to be addressed. Aurora, you've read enough of my answers to realize that I put a lot of effort into being snarky and sarcastic, but only when the tone of the conversation calls for it. I've seen KC out-snark me when it was called for.

This big a website means that there are too many situations for cookie-cutter reactions to be correct all the time. This example of hitting a dog. Is it always bad? Pretty close. I can think of situations when it's necessary, though, such as fights and attacks.

Am I always right when I think sarcasm is appropriate? Ask Synnen. She's deleted more of my posts than the other mods. Am I going to keep on? Sarah Palin moment - You Betcha!

I think when you put a post out there like this, you know you are vulnerable, but that doesn't mean you wish for an attack and you will more easily feel attacked.

KC is saying that he is frustrated and insecure about his choice, I think that upfront honesty is to be commended. Even if you have to choose your words wisely, I read the remorse in the first post. Remorse doesn't not equal room for cookie cutter responses. In my opinion.

I just want to add something here. We all know KC well. We know what kind of person he is, we're all friends with him. Aurora doesn't know him from Adam.

When we read KC's post we all saw it for what it was because of how well we know KC. Had it been someone else, we may have reacted differently.

I'm just saying to cut Aurora some slack. :)

Having said that, let's move forward, okay? I think that Aurora has a lot to offer this site. We all have moments when we let our emotions or opinions get the better of us. I definitely can't cast stones at anyone for that. I don't think any of us can.

Bygones? Okay?

Ok, got it. Didn't think it was a cookie cutter response, how ever the reason it may have sounded pretentious was because he wasn't talking about his dog fighting, he was talking about jerking his dog out of frustration, which we all know where that leads. THAT was all I was trying to convey, I was not trying to give a cookie cutter answer, or sound rude.
I volunteer at a shelter, one of our last additions is a wonderful dog, except when he is around men. When ever a man approches his kennel either as a potential new owner or just to clean it or go for a walk, Marco cowers, tail tucked between his legs, ears back, he gets so nervous that he actually pees right there, he gets so distraught over making the mess he lays there rolls onto his back in a submissive position. It breaks my heart seeing that.
It was the post that was deleted that made me feel defensive.
Anyway, I do have experience with puppy's so if KC still wants my input, I will more careful to not sound rude, or give cookie cutter answers, I'd be glad to, if not, I'll butt out.
Anyway,
Congrats and good luck!

Ok sorry sent that post before I saw Alty's response.
Thank you, and I hope we canmove on too.
Sorry KC.

... I'm going to go against what everyone told you. When I trained my own puppy, I didn't start to actually do obedience anything until 2 weeks after I purchased my puppy.

You need to bond with your dog. Even though obedience does develop a bond, you need to come to an understanding with your puppy. You need to find out what the puppy likes and doesn't like. What makes your puppy happy and what doesn't. The same with a child.I doubt anyone with a new born baby is teaching the baby to walk and talk at 8 weeks of age. Take everything slowly. Start the sit command when you feel ready and when the puppy is ready. You need to bond with your pup right now.

As far as feeding... Puppies don't understand "dominance' at 8 weeks of age. The puppy wants to eat out of your labs bowl because the puppy probably ate from moms bowl. You just need to redirect and show puppy that he/she gets their own bowl to eat from. I feed my puppies with me right next to them. I pet them and mess with their feet while they eat. I don't ever make puppies sit and wait for their food. If you have established a good understanding with one another, then the puppy is going to recognize you as pack leader without having them do tricks for their food. I'm not a big advocate for that unless its needed... usually adult dogs with dominance issues understand what that means.. not so much a puppy.

I have raised 20 puppies... I have a household of all females... I have no issues with anyone because I am pack leader... and I didn't establish that by making my dogs sit and wait for their food... :)

Aurora, I for one value your input on this site. You are a compassionate person and your love of animals comes through in every one of your posts.

Knowing KC, he will value what you have to say. Just remember that this is his first puppy. It doesn't always come naturally. Puppies can be a challenge and I think he's up for the challenge.

The fact that he came her for help instead of just giving up or worse, that should tell you what kind of person he is. He wants to do what's best for his puppy. He just needs some advice. :)

....I'm going to go against what everyone told you. When I trained my own puppy, I didnt start to actually do obedience anything until 2 weeks after I purchased my puppy.

You need to bond with your dog. Even though obedience does develop a bond, you need to come to an understanding with your puppy. You need to find out what the puppy likes and doesnt like. What makes your puppy happy and what doesnt. The same with a child.I doubt anyone with a new born baby is teaching the baby to walk and talk at 8 weeks of age. Take everything slowly. Start the sit command when you feel ready and when the puppy is ready. You need to bond with your pup right now.

As far as feeding... Puppies dont understand "dominance' at 8 wks of age. The puppy wants to eat out of your labs bowl because the puppy probably ate from moms bowl. You just need to redirect and show puppy that he/she gets their own bowl to eat from. I feed my puppies with me right next to them. I pet them and mess with their feet while they eat. I dont ever make puppies sit and wait for their food. If you have established a good understanding with one another, then the puppy is going to recognize you as pack leader without having them do tricks for their food. I'm not a big advocate for that unless its needed... usually adult dogs with dominance issues understand what that means..not so much a puppy.

I have raised 20 puppies... I have a household of all females... I have no issues with anyone because I am pack leader...and I didnt establish that by making my dogs sit and wait for their food....:)

Did I miss something? I thought that KC got the 11 week old puppy he was looking at.

He also mentioned in his post that he got the puppy a few weeks ago.

I follow the Cesar Millan method, because it works. In the wild, dogs have to work for their food. To make your puppy sit for hers is a form of working for her meal.

Everyone has their own method Lucky. Obviously you believe yours is best and it works for you. That's great. My method is just as valid and it works for me. :)

If KC did get the 11 week old pup she's over 3 months old now, a perfect time to start training. Actually, mother dogs start training their pups at birth. It's people that think "Oh, she's so young, too young to learn, let her just be a puppy". For me, the earlier you start the easier it is. You have to remember that this is a dog, not a child.

Anyway, the methods KC uses are up to him. I can only post what I believe and how I train my dogs. To each their own. :)

OH EXCUSE ME! I'm sorry...

Yes... dogs in the wild act very different than dogs in homes. Dogs in the wild also live by strict rules of either live or die..

I have raised 20 puppies... Maybe not to adult hood, but 20 puppies. I have never once made any of those puppies sit and wait for their food. It's a waste of my time.. But if that's the solution that you want, by all means do it. Unlike you, I'm not criticizing your training methods. There are over 100 different ways to properly raise a puppy, but I guess if you don't agree with it, or you haven't read about it in a book, then its wrong... Once again, I have personally worked with 20 puppies. How many have you worked with? The solution I have works for me... And I'll share my experience with people who ask.

Now, let me quote myself ---
I'm going to go against what everyone told you... -- To me, I didn't criticize anyone. I didn't say that you were absolutely wrong and that my way is more correct. I didn't say that all. Did I highlight what you said and go over how wrong you are? no.. My methods ARE NOT WRONG. I don't understand why you think you need to call me wrong in every aspect because you personally don't like my ideas.

I am so tired of being picked on on this website... Its almost getting to be annoying. I ask for help with my own personal dogs, and not a single person on here can give me an answer or solution, yet everyone on here puts themselves on a high horse with every answer being most correct.

Dogs are dogs... there are more solutions to training techniques then what wild dogs do and what a TV dog trainer has to offer. I explore every aspect and take everything into consideration.

Yikes Lucky, she didn't say you were wrong...
And I quote "Everyone has their own method Lucky. Obviously you believe yours is best and it works for you. That's great. My method is just as valid and it works for me."
Sounds like she was agreeing to disagree.
The point of this is to SHARE different opinions.
No one has to agree on EVRYTHING.
You are lucky that yours worked for you.
I think it's great you have helped over 20 puppies...
But it's not a competition, we're all here to help.

I'm not in any way saying I'm better than anyone else on this website... But any time I post something that isn't exactally what everyone on here agrees with, I find myself fighting with everyone. I'm not going to say I'm wrong. I'm not saying anyone else on here is wrong either. I'm not trying to start a fight, but I'm not going to allow myself to be belittled by people on this website because my advise isn't what everyone else agrees with. The way I see it, Ceaser Milan and the lady from "its me or the dog" came up with their own ideas and became well known for it. Doing my own thing isn't wrong.

OH EXCUSE ME! I'm sorry...

Yes... dogs in the wild act very different than dogs in homes. Dogs in the wild also live by strict rules of either live or die..

I have raised 20 puppies... Maybe not to adult hood, but 20 puppies. I have never once made any of those puppies sit and wait for their food. It's a waste of my time.. But if that's the solution that you want, by all means do it. Unlike you, I'm not criticizing your training methods. There are over 100 different ways to properly raise a puppy, but I guess if you don't agree with it, or you haven't read about it in a book, then its wrong... Once again, I have personally worked with 20 puppies. How many have you worked with? The solution I have works for me... And I'll share my experience with people who ask.

Now, let me quote myself --- -- To me, I didn't criticize anyone. I didn't say that you were absolutely wrong and that my way is more correct. I didn't say that all. Did I highlight what you said and go over how wrong you are? no.. My methods ARE NOT WRONG. I don't understand why you think you need to call me wrong in every aspect because you personally don't like my ideas.

I am so tired of being picked on on this website... Its almost getting to be annoying. I ask for help with my own personal dogs, and not a single person on here can give me an answer or solution, yet everyone on here puts themselves on a high horse with every answer being most correct.

Dogs are dogs... there are more solutions to training techniques then what wild dogs do and what a TV dog trainer has to offer. I explore every aspect and take everything into consideration.

Where the heck did this come from? Did you read my post Lucky?

I never picked on you or your methods. I clearly stated that everyone has different methods and that mine work for me just like yours work for you. There is no right and wrong here, only different methods.

I never said you criticized me. Not once.

As for how many puppies I've trained. I don't breed dogs, so of course I haven't had as many as you have had in your home. I only have dogs as pets, not as breeders. So, it's not possible for me to have raised 20 puppies in my life time. I have however raised every dog I've had from puppyhood until the end of their lives.

Which threads are you talking about where you asked for advice and didn't get any? We're not always able to give an answer, that's a sad fact. I wish we had all the answers but we don't. I'm sorry that you didn't get the help you were looking for, but to blame the people on this site for that, well, that's not fair.


Did I highlight what you said and go over how wrong you are?

Actually, you did. You picked apart what I said about making the puppy sit for it's food. I simply posted that this is my method. Again, you don't have to agree with it and I'm not saying that this is the only way. It's what I do with my dogs and it's my opinion that this works.


The solution I have works for me... And I'll share my experience with people who ask.

And we welcome your input. I don't welcome the hostility in your post, but your input is always welcome. My solution also works for me and just like you, I have the right to post my opinions here.

Lucky, I'm shocked that you read my post and this is what you came up with as a response. I did none of the things you're accusing me of. If it came off that way then I'm truly sorry, but really, I'm shocked that this is how you interpreted my post.

If you have a problem with me I'd rather we discussed it on a different thread, let's not take away from KC's thread and turn this into a debate about who's the better dog trainer. That's not why I'm here, I hope that's not why you're here.

I'm not in any way saying I'm better than anyone else on this website... But any time I post something that isnt exactally what everyone on here agrees with, I find myself fighting with everyone. I'm not going to say I'm wrong. I'm not saying anyone else on here is wrong either. I'm not trying to start a fight, but I'm not going to allow myself to be belittled by people on this website because my advise isnt what everyone else agrees with. The way I see it, Ceaser Milan and the lady from "its me or the dog" came up with their own ideas and became well known for it. Doing my own thing isnt wrong.

I re-read my post 5 times, I still can't see where I fought with you or said that you're wrong. I simply stated that I have a different method.

I never belittled you. If that's the way you took it, again, I'm sorry, but what part of my post led to you feeling belittled? I'm not seeing it.

I'm really confused here. I can't see what part of my post prompted this response. I'm floored that you reacted the way you did. I really don't know why.

I'm sorry KC that we've gone off the topic. I'm just trying to understand where this anger is coming from. I'm not seeing any reason for it.

Since everyone has their own viewpoints and what works for them, I am going to close this thread before it turns ugly.