Hi I have a Cal Spa. I do not know the model though, but we have had it since 1999. Recently the hot tub has not been heating up. The pump will run, but the heater will not turn on. The heating light on the digital screen is not on even though I adjust the temperature. I have been looking up different answers to this question and the overall opinion is to bleed the system, however I cannot find any information on how to do this on my spa. Any answers would be greatly appreciated.

If you Have Voltage to the element, and it doesn't heat, it's the Element.
You can check for voltage to the Heater Relay/Contactor, if the contactor coil has voltage and it doesn't connect power through, the relay/contactor is bad.

If the heat light is not on you don't have voltage going to the heat element.

Unless you have a dedicated 'Spa Cal Filtration Pump' turn on the Jets (or Jets 1 if you have more than one pump). If there is water flow in the tub you do not need to bleed the system.

If you do have a Spa Cal Filtration or if you turn on the jets and there is no water flow the 'heat pump' is likely air locked and you will have to bleed or 'prime' the pump.

If the heat pump is not air locked you most likely have a bad pressure switch or a high limit has tripped but you could also have a bad heat relay.

Is there any way you can send me digital photos of the control panel, control box and the pump that is plumbed to the heater under the control box?

Tom Davis
Authorized Cal Spa Service Agent
[email protected]

Quote "If the heat light is not on you don't have voltage going to the heat element."
Indicators can go bad, may need element intact to work, Measuring at element may be more reliable.
Water Valves are open?

Quote "If the heat light is not on you don't have voltage going to the heat element."
Indicators can go bad, may need element intact to work, Measuring at element may be more reliable.
Water Valves are open?

I've worked on Cal Spa products since 1990. I've never seen a single heat indicator LED go bad.

The element is not in series with the LED. In fact, the LED is designed to be a diagnostic indicator.

Heat light ON = heat relay is engaged or at least has power to the coil. The temperature controls are calling for heat. The control circuits are good. If voltage is present it is getting to the element.

Heat light OFF (when it should be on) = heat relay not engaging. Check for: bad thermostat or temperature control circuit, bad pressure switch or no water flow, tripped high limit or other control preventing the heat relay from engaging.

Measuring voltage at the element is more conclusive than the LED heat indicator. Measuring amperage through the element with a clamp-on meter is even better but most homeowners don't own a meter.

Valves would be a valid question if bobcatjeffry indicated a recent drain and refill or repair but it sounds like the tub was just sitting out there and stopped working all by itself.

My bet is on a pressue switch. Although I've seen older tubs fail to produce an FL error when the filters are dirty...

Hey, bobcatjeffry: pull your filter(s) out and check the bottom drains for blockage.

I would still like to see pictures of the control box and pump if pulling the filters does not fix the problem.

I work on many thing, didn't think indicator was in series.
I agree with the Amprobe.
If Element has voltage and no current, it is open.

Hello,

I have the same problem with my Cal Spas unit. I had it turned on last night and it was heating and the light was on. I came out and the light had gone off. I thought maybe the bulb was just bad but after letting it run a couple more hours the water did not get any warmer.

The pump seems to be working (I only have one two-speed pump) as water being pumped and flowing as normal. Calsparepair, should I likewise still pull my filter and check for any blockage? If there is none, where do I find the pressure switch at?

Thank you! Nice to Google this and find someone who has worked on these things for 20 years.

Hi!
calsparepair person said that if there was a recent drain, then the problem could be valves. I did have my calSpas500 drained recently and now it does not heat up at all. Can you please tell me how to check/fix the valves?

I have seen where a valve was closed and would not heat due to lack of flow.

Stratmando, thank you, but do you know how/where do I check if that is the case?

What type of valves do you have? Usually full counterclockwise, or the handle inline with the pipe is open.
Could be in the control board, or the heating relay as well. Corroded wires are common.

Cal Spa expert - how do I identify the heater relay? I am use to relays in automotive applications. Is the heater relay in the spa about 5x larger? Would it be at the bottom electrical box with black wires connected to it? Is there a diagram on the web somewhere identifying the different sections of the circuit board?

Hopefully he will be here shortly.

Cal spa expert, I found the wiring diagram on the back side of the service panel. Balboa Instruments, 7/01/03, CS5300 wiring diagram. My temperature is set to 102 but it took 48 hours for the temperature to rise from 95 to now 95F. The heater light is still off. On the wiring diagram the heater element is connected to terminals 1 and 3. I do not have a current meter at home but I put a volt meter up to the terminals and it read 0 volts. The wiring diagram says my heater is a 240V 5.5 kW. I do not see a relay on the wiring diagram for the heater control, the only relay which I referenced in my previous controls the 240 V pumps.

-> Can you offer advice or next steps? Temp feedback appears to be OK, reading 97F. Heater light (currently off) appears to be valid because I am not reading any voltage on the heater buss. Could this be my control panel or circuit board? Any other ideas? Thanks in advance

I have a Cal Spa 2200 model and I had the same thing happen (no heat after being shutdown for a couple months). I did a search online, here also, and was suspecting the pressure switch. I was about to jumper the pressure switch when I noticed that the pressure switch has an adjustable knob on it to set the point that the switch is made. I adjusted the knob and the heat LED light came on and it started heating.

So check for an adjustable knob on the pressure switch before you try anything else.

Hello

I just inherited a PS-1 dated .

I have the manual, none of the pictures fit the controls in the unit itself ( there is one control valuve on the corner, then about 2 feet away are two more, down inside the spa a bit. Then over on the other side of the sasme wall are two push buttons. One seems to work the air, the outermost one does not work at all and does not seem to be hooked up to anything.

Anyhow, we got is cleaned and primed, ran it all night to warm it. Heater indicatior light is on and NADA, 24 hours later the water is the same temp as yesterday.

I can't tell from the (cruddy) maunal just what to do! Any suggestions?

Ugh, it was supposed to ask a new question, not post in here. Sorry. (mine is 15 amp (120v)

No, this is where you need to keep all in one place for this problem.
Follow the push button to the air switch and you can bypass the switchs to see what they operate, 1 you know is the blower, the second may do nothing or be broke.
Can you provide any pictures?
Do you have a cover.
Do you have a meter and safely work on this. The pictures will help.

I have similar problem - just changed the water, re started the system, cleared the air from the jets - so they are all flowing clearly.

Heat LED does not turn on, and no heat - any ideas?

Thanks

What should be the voltage at the heater? Mine is reading 77 volts. I can't seem to get it to heat water very well and when you touch the heater it room temperature to the touch, Ice cold when you turn the heater off, and when you unplug the pump she gets red hot in seconds. How long are these units suppose to take to heat up?

I have similar problem: heater LED does not turn ON, tub does not heat even with setting to highest setting, pumps work - good flow, no error codes, tried tripping overpressure sensor switch with no change.


Is there a recommended way to check if the relays are bad? Can you also jump across them easily. I read no voltage at the Heater Element terminals.

A friend of mine is having a similar problem to this. He has just replaced the heater on his and started it up. It does not heat. I have checked for voltage and it reads 240 at the terminals for the heater. My question is there anything between the terminals and the heater that can go out such as an overload or a fuse?

bfrizzo and frr12767,
If you have voltage to the Element and it doesn't heat, the element is open.
Amprobe can show current draw without any disconnection.

Jumping power directly may power the element, don't, If you had voltage to the element before, jumping won't help, and may burn out new element, many won't heat if there is no flow, valve(s) closed,
For a relay to work, it need power in from supply, and a power out to the heater(double for 2 pole/240), and will connect the input and the output if there is line voltage to the relay's coil, which gets it power from the control board and may be intterupted by door or other safetys.

Hi all,

I have the same heating problem since yesterday: heat led is off and no heating. Took the voltage beetween pins 1 and 3 (heater) and I have 120 V. The heater is suppose to be a 240V heater. My control is a CS5000. I took the resitivity of the heater element and I can read 10 ohms... is this reading is correct for an element in good shape?

Thanks for your answers

Bertheji

Sounds like one of the legs is open, Follow the 240 volts in and to the heater.

Hello, I am having a similar problem. I have a 2005 calspas hot tub and it hasn't been heating correctly. Previously the heat light would only come on and heat if I had the high speed pump running. After reading many of these posts I found that I should adjust the pressure switch because it was not activating with the low speed pumps. That worked for a few minutes but I kept hearing a clicking sound in that area or possibly the circuit board. Now I cannot get the heat light to come on at all.

I have replaced the pressure switch, removed filter, and all valves are open. Circuit board?

Please HELP!

Sounds like there are many hot-tub owners with the same issue and I would like to add to it. Mine starting with bad bearings on 2 5hp GE Motors for my Cal Spa 2100 series spa built in 2002. Re-installed the pumps and in the process replaced both Vacuum Switches as they were brittle and the Pressure Switch on the Heater as well as the Hi-limit/thermometer. The hot-tub starts up and the heater kicks in but does not stay on. I did the Bleeding of the water to make sure I do not have and Air-lock and the water turns over very nicely. To ensure I did not have any water flow issues I even removed the filter.

What is my next step and how do I check the voltage to the heater from the board or control box?

I am about to replace the main control board. BTW: The previous owner informed after I started having issues that the safety vacuum switches went bad and he disconnected them to address a FL issue he had.

Thanks to anyone that can shed some light on this problem.

I had a heating element go bad ,replaced element 240/5.5k.stated tub back up but it only heats up to 75 degrees, checked voltage all OK