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I am installing an acrylic shower base on a concrete floor in a basement.
The original shower base had a 2" copper pipe sitting about 1" above the floor surface with a lead sealing ring.
The acryalic shower base sits flat on the floor and has a 3.25" hole in it.
The thickness of the base is 1/4"
I am told that oatley makes a drain assembly that would connect to my 2" copper pipe( everybody has the unit that adapts to 2" ABS but no
One carries one for the copper pipe.
If possible I would like to get one of these drains & adaptor.
What is part number.
I also need to know that if I chop out around the existing pipe and make enoufg space to put this below my base ,will I be able to slide the unit in and tighten the drain to pipe part and the top dress ring entirley from the top.
Does the rubber sealing adaptor fit on the outside of the copper pipe or the inside.

Hi Wkydd...

Oatey and many other manufacturers make shower strainer assemblies that will work with copper pipe, but they are not special, except for fact that they are brass strainers... not plastic. Here, the only way I know to connect a 2" copper pipe to a shower strainer is to use lead and oakum like they have always done. You would purchase/install a brass strainer assembly and then pack in the oakum and pour a lead joint around the copper pipe. To finish we caulk the inside and outside edges of the lead with leading tools and install the strainer.

If that doesn't work for you you could also remove some concrete and then install a shielded transition clamp (see image) to transition from copper pipe to PVC or ABS plastic. Then you could stub the PVC or ABS pipe up above the floor and install a NO-CALK shower strainer (see other image). You can purchase a brass or plastic no-calk shower strainer. Do NOT purchase a socket weld type shower strainer as that will not allow you to do the work from above as easily as the no-calk type will... ;)

Are you planning to set the shower base in a bedding substrate like structolite or mortar?

MARK

I wasn't planning to do amything except sitting the base on the solid concrete floor(bad idea)?
On the drain I was also considering
Just leaving about a quarter of an inch above the concrete and fiffing in between the 2" copper pipe and the 3.25" ID of the shower base with some kind of good quality sealant or epoxy.
What do you think
Is that possible?

No way on the sealant or epoxy! Install a proper shower strainer and pipe it as described above. Sealant or epoxy or at the least the edges where the sealant or epoxy meet the shower will develop mold and scum. I promise it will get messy/smelly fast!

Also, for basement floors (or any floor for that matter are almost never level) the best result is to place the shower base in a bed of mortar or structolite perlited gypsum plaster. It not only helps with leveling the base from front to back and from side to side, but also reduces noises associated with base movement every time you take a shower... ;)

Back to you...

MARK

Mark
Thanks for advice,how thick do you put the motor mix on 1/4"
are you sure about the oatley attachment drain.
a wholeseller here London Canada said oatley made a different rubber ring for the copper pipe and it used the same assembly otherwise.
There was a lead okum seal in the old shower that I saved except for the lead ring.
I am an old auto radiator man and I was wondering about cleaning up the old beass drain piece setting it down over the 2" copper pipe and pouring lead into the space between the two diameters .
If I tinned the pipe and the drain it would make a water tight seal.
Then the only thing I would have to figure out would be sealing between the drain assembly and the acrylic shower base
Any ideas

You know... I could be wrong about the ring. If a wholesaler said that the different ring was available then it very well may be. I may simply have not seen it. It is certainly worth investigating further on Monday!

Check with the manufacturer of the shower base, but usually you pour the concrete so it is about 2 inches thicker than needed from the bottom of the base to the floor... then you SQUISH it out as you level the base. Do not mix to thick here.

I would not bother with the used parts.

Wait for the other plumbers onsite to pop in later today. Otherwise, investigate the copper strainer rubber on Monday. I certainly don't want to cause you any extra work!

MARK

Mark
Thank you for your help.
If anything else comes up please let me know
Bill

Keep checking in over the next 24 hours!

Hi Wkydd,

Sorry I was in transit on a trip but you are in good hands, Mark is the expert and the best, Thanks.

John