I have an 03 Honda Civic EX coupe with 130k. I have owned it for a little over three years now and have had no problems at all. Yesterday I drove to the mailbox turned off the car and when I got back and it started and then died. It will start and sometimes idle roughly for 2 to 3 seconds and then die. I am guessing it is either the RACV or maybe the fuel pump or filter because it doesn't respond to me giving it gas after it is started. Please help!

Perform tests in the link below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-11.html#post2123675

Leaning towards Crankshaft Position Sensor.

I did the tests listed in the link and it turns out my check engine light doesn't you turn off after two seconds. According to your link you said the PCM may be failing, where is this located and is there anyway to test it?

If the Check Engine Light is on, check for codes by attaching a code reader to the Data Link Connector, located under the dash.

Here's how you can get an overall evaluation of your ECM:

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

I would be surprised if your ECM was bad, since your Civic is so new. CELs can also stay on due to a failing ignition switch--examine the switch for wear, pitting, or melting. It goes without saying, check all under hood and under dash fuses thoroughly with a test light or multimeter.

Thank you so much TxGreaseMonkey, I will get a code reader tomorrow and hopefully find out what's wrong. I might need more advice after that point.

Read the codes and had an air intake code and IAC code but after resetting the ECM they both cleared. I removed the fuel line from the fuel rail to make sure I was getting fuel and found that the fuel is very dirty, so I am thinking it is the fuel filter. The dealer said I would have to buy and entire new fuel pump and that they don't sell the filter by itself. Do you know of any way to get around this?

The codes may come back, once you start the car.

That's the problem with the trend to not have external fuel filters, which I'm not a fan of. Don't know how you can get around the problem. I would remove the pump first and go from there. You may be able to clean it, instead of having to replace it.

I have been following some troubleshooting from a repair manual on the fuel system. I got to test where it had me remove ECM/PCM connector E and measure voltage between terminal E1 and body ground. It indicates that if I don't get battery voltage to replace the PGM-FI main relay 2. I was only getting a reading of .08 so I replaced the relay only to perform the test and get the same result. Any help??