Where s the fuel pressure regulator regulator

Should be on the fuel rail, with a return hose going to the gas tank. Usually, it's on the driver's side of the rail.

I was reading on the internet that it is close to the fuel filter which is underneth the driver side

Start at the fuel rail and follow what is likely a 5/16" I.D. hose back to the fuel tank. This is the best I can advise. It shouldn't be difficult to locate. Besides, problems with fuel pressure regulators are virtually non-existent, even though many focus on them when their car doesn't start.

If it isn't that then what causes it to flood when starting. U have to pump the gas to get it started because it won't start by just turning the key

You may be looking at a symptom, rather than the cause. The problem is likely a weak primary ignition system. Since not all the fuel is being efficiently burned, you think it's a fuel-related problem and the engine seems to be flooding. In fact, it's likely an ignition system problem.

I would:

. Replace the spark plugs (ACDelco only) if they have not been changed in the last 3 years.

. Replace coil packs, Ignition Control Module, and, possibly, spark plug wires.

. Replace the fuel filter, if it hasn't been changed in the last 25,000 miles.

This link may help:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-11.html#post2123675

The only thing I haven't replaced is the coil packs so u think the fuel pressure regulator is fine

Yup. I've never seen a fuel pump regulator be the cause of anyone's problem.

I used to own and drive a 1992 Saturn SL1, until my son got it in 1993. They are very reliable cars. Fuel problems are not common any more, except when people neglect changing fuel filters. Saturn electrical problems tend to involve Ignition Control Modules (ICMs), coil packs, and spark plug wires, as the car goes over 100,000 miles or 10 years. Good, reliable cars and easy to maintain. Just know that ICMs are problematic components on every vehicle they are on, especially when you go over the 100,000 mile mark. It's possible for plugs to even fire, but they don't fire precisely when the ECM wants them to. ICMs are legendary for starting problems and engines suddenly dying.

Do the plugs look wet, as if they haven't been firing? Did you perform the standard spark test on each cylinder?

My gut is that the ICM is responsible for your problems. If you want to save money, shop for a great price on a new ICM and try using your current coil packs and spark plug wires. I always recommend replacing ICMs and coils every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.