I have a pontiac grand am with a 2.4 motor I shut the car off and it won't start it won't even crank over will not do anything I have headlights radio and dash lights it just won't start I changed the silonoid and still nothing please help.

It's time to replace the battery. The starter motor draws much more current than a few lights.

It's time to replace the battery. The starter motor draws much more current than a few lights.




My husband put his battery in my car and it still won't start we had the starter checked and it id good any more suggestions would be appreciated

. Test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-3.html#post252145

. Perform tests in the link below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-3.html#post235560

He checked all that could it be the ignition switch and if so how do change it the car has air bags on the drivers side and passenger side

Sure it could be ignition switch--your tests should have revealed that or not.

Sure it could be ignition switch--your tests should have revealed that or not.




We are not getting any power from the ignition switch to the starter but all the dash lights work when you turn the key there is nothing when we go out side they can jump the starter the silenoid kicks in but not the starter the starter and silenoid are good they were tested

Have you cleaned all connections to the starter motor and solenoid? If you did and you connected a jumper lead (12 AWG), or preferably a remote starter switch, between the positive battery terminal and the exposed “S” terminal on the solenoid, the starter motor should crank. If not, I would replace the starter motor. The ignition switch was by-passed and should not be a factor. Use your husband's known good battery in these tests.

The starter motor does crank and when they put it back on the car it doesn't work please help me I am at my wits end

Going back to basics, ensure battery cable and starter motor connections have been cleaned. Also, ensure all under hood and under dash fuses have been tested with a test light or multimeter. Visual examination is not good enough, since it does not check for "power through the fuse." Be thorough, since it will save a lot of time and money. Finally, examine the ignition switch wire, going to the solenoid, for a fusible link. It will look like a large lump in the wire. If it blew, it should be apparent.

My gut is that there may be a problem with the starter motor. It may crank sometimes, as it did when it was tested, but not every time. If the starter motor connections are clean, and you by-passed the ignition switch by jumping the starter motor, it should crank every time--no if, ands, or buts.

Thank you will look at that

Once you solve this problem, start using 5W-30 full-synthetic engine oil (e.g. Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum). During cold weather, particularly, synthetics are much easier on starter motors and batteries. There are a host of other benefits, as well.

Replaced the starter and the car still will not start have a new battery as well if you cross the starter it should crank the motor but it don't please help

Perform tests in the link below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-3.html#post235560

If the starter motor does not crank, as in Step 6, the problem is with the ignition switch, neutral start switch, or wiring.

We were told if we jumped the starter from the outside it should crank the motor when we did that the starter still didn't turn the motor my question is this should the motor still crank

Where is the neutral start switch located

Do you have to take off the steering wheel to replace the ignition switch

No need to remove the steering wheel. It's much easier than that. You are replacing the switch, not the lock. Disconnect the negative battery cable, steering column cover, two screws attaching the ignition switch to the left side of the steering column, and remove switch. Install new ignition switch, tighten both screws, replace negative battery cable, and start car. Here's what the switch looks like and costs at AutoZone (LS643, $39.99):

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsProduct.jsp?itemIdentifier=124069_0_0_&skuDescription=Duralast+/+Ignition+Switch&brandName=Duralast&displayName=Ignition+Switch&categoryNValue=16299999&sortType=&store=1264&isSearchByPartNumber=false&fromWhere=&fromString=search&counter=0&itemId=189-0&navValue=16200189&filterByKeyWord=ignition+switch&productId=124069&searchText=ignition+switch&categoryDisplayName=Ignition+(Tune+Up)&parentId=62-0

Enlarge the images.

I'm not sure where the neutral start switch is on your car. If you jump the new starter motor with your new battery, the starter motor has to crank.

The starter won't kick in for the motor to turn over even though I replaced the starter husband said when he bolts the starter to the motor and when he jumps the starter it sounds like bendix isn't kicking in but when the starter is off the motor and jumps it that way the bendix kicks in then don't know why it won't kick in when bolted to the motor

The problem may be with the over-running starter motor clutch. It sounds like you bought a rebuilt that is not any good. I'd exchange it for another.

Also, be sure to clean away all corrosion where the starter motor grounds; clean main grounding straps and apply dielectric grease. Clean all starter motor connections and apply dielectric grease.

OK it will crank from the outside is it the ignition switch is there a way to test the ignition switch to see if it is bad before I buy one

Used a multi-meter to verify power and make certain you have a solid ground.
Corrosion in the battery cable could cause such a significant voltage drop that there isn't enough left at the starter.
Study this schematic and follow the voltage on the ignition switch side. That is what controls how and when the starter engages.

28205

Used a multi-meter to verify power and make certain you have a solid ground.
Corrosion in the battery cable could cause such a significant voltage drop that there isn't enough left at the starter.
Study this schematic and follow the voltage on the ignition switch side. That is what controls how and when the starter engages.

28205

Can you test the ignition switch and if so how do you do it

Can you test an ignition switch on a 98 pontiac grand am with a 2.4 motor and if so how do you test it

Remove the switch, checking it over for wear, pitting, or melting.

Remove the switch, checking it over for wear, pitting, or melting.





If we don't see anything upon our visual inspection what can we do next I really appreciate your help and thank you very much

If everything else has been ruled out, take your chances and buy a new ignition switch. Buy it from someone who will allow it to be returned, if it doesn't solve the problem.

Remove the switch, checking it over for wear, pitting, or melting.





What is pitting?

Like craters on the moon.

Like craters on the moon.



OK thank you I will let you know how it goes

You need to start with a fully charged battery.
Then, with the key in the START position, you should be able to find battery voltage (at least 12 volts but it should be higher) on the yellow wire coming out of the ignition switch. If you don't have at least 10 volts on that wire, replace the ignition switch and retest.
An alternate test point for this is actually on the purple wire right where it connects to the starter. This locaton is far easier identify but you still have to rule out the safety switch (CPP on manual trans and TR on automatics).

ok thank you i will let you know how it goes





We replaced the ignition switch and the car will crank from the inside but will not start the motor jumps when you try and start it what could be the problem now could it be the ignition module

Perform the tests in the link below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-11.html#post2123675

The Ignition Control Module and coil are what I would focus on, if you now have a straight-forward crank but won't start situation. This assumes the engine compression and timing belt are fine.

Perform the tests in the link below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-11.html#post2123675

The Ignition Control Module and coil would be what I would focus on, if you now have a straight-forward crank but won't start situation. This assumes the engine compression and timing belt are fine.



Where is the ignition coil located and thanks to you I I am learning a lot about my car

where is the ignition coil located and thanks to you i i am learning a lot about my car


The car has set for like 3 or 4 weeks just though you would like to know that

Here's what your coil looks like:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsShelf.jsp?categoryDisplayName=Ignition+(Tune+ Up)&fromType=parts&fromString=search&parentId=62-0&currentPage=1&filterByKeyWord=coil&isSearchByPartNumber=false&navValue=16200027&categoryNValue=16299999&fromWhere=&itemId=27-0&displayName=Coil+-+Ignition&searchText=coil

Here's what your Ignition Control Module looks like:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsShelf.jsp?categoryDisplayName=Electrical+%26+ Lighting&fromType=parts&fromString=search&parentId=57-0&currentPage=1&filterByKeyWord=control+module&isSearchByPartNumber=false&navValue=15700029&categoryNValue=15799999&fromWhere=&itemId=29-0&displayName=Control+Module+-+Ignition&searchText=control+module

Since your car sat so long:

Try turning the ignition switch to ON, until you hear the fuel pump in the gas tank stop running. Then, turn the ignition switch OFF. Repeat this several times, in order to fully pressurize the fuel rail. On the final time, turn the ignition switch to START and see if the engine starts.

. Can you hear the fuel pump run?

. Have you tested for spark?

Since your car sat so long:

Try turning the ignition switch to ON, until you hear the fuel pump in the gas tank stop running. Then, turn the ignition switch OFF. Repeat this several times, in order to fully pressurize the fuel rail. On the final time, turn the ignition switch to START and see if the engine starts.

. Can you hear the fuel pump run?

. Have you tested for spark?




Yes I can hear the fuel pump run but how do check for spark do I have to replace both coils if there is no spark

Remove a spark plug wire and attach it to a properly gapped spark plug, touch the plug to a convenient ground, and observe the spark, while someone cranks the engine. If there's no (or weak) spark, replace the ICM and coil.

Remove a spark plug wire and attach it to a properly gapped spark plug, touch the plug to a convenient ground, and observe the spark, while someone cranks the engine. If there's no (or weak) spark, replace the ICM and coil.




How many ignition coils are there on the car? If there is more than one will I have to replace them all

There's only one coil on your car.

There's only one coil on your car.
.




Thank you

There's only one coil on your car.




I had the ignition module tested and it is good there are two coil packs on the car we are not getting any spark could both coils go out at the same time what should I do now

i had the ignition module tested and it is good there are two coil packs on the car we are not getting any spark could both coils go out at the same time what should i do now






Is there anyway to test the plug in that goes into the module to see if I am getting any juice to the module if not should I just replace the icm and coils

Bench testing ICMs and coils is not reliable. Too often they test fine but don't work at all. I would install a new ICM and two new coil packs, if that's what you have. The AutoZone site shows only one coil for your engine and a coil pack housing. I recommend replacing ICMs and coils every 120,000 or 10 years, whichever comes first.

Bench testing ICMs and coils is not reliable. Too often they test fine but don't work at all. I would install a new ICM and two new coil packs, if that's what you have. The AutoZone site shows only one coil for your engine and a coil pack housing. I recommend replacing ICMs and coils every 120,000 or 10 years, whichever comes first.




Is there any way I can test the end of the plug that goes into the module to see if there is juice going to the module

I'm not familiar enough with your car to say. You should consult a Haynes Manual, if you want to do that.

I'm not familiar enough with your car to say. You should consult a Haynes Manual, if you want to do that.




Does the ignition relay have anything to with firing

we replaced the ignition switch and the car will crank from the inside but will not start the motor jumps when you try and start it what could be the problem now could it be the ignition module

The motor "jumps"?
Has anyone checked to see if the engine is perhaps seized?

I'm not familiar enough with your car to say. You should consult a Haynes Manual, if you want to do that.




We put a new icm and coils on the car still not firing what now

Do you have spark?

Do you have spark?



No

You need a Haynes Manual on your car and see what tests they recommend that we have not performed. I'm not that familiar with your car to get more specific than I have. Ensure all under dash and under hood fuses test OK with the test light or multimeter. Make sure you get the sense that the PCM (computer) is working.

Make sure your've performed the tests in the link below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-11.html#post2123675

Sorry I can't offer more help.

You need a Haynes Manual on your car and see what tests they recommend that we have not performed. I'm not that familiar with your car to get more specific than I have. Ensure all under dash and under hood fuses test OK with the test light or multimeter. Make sure you get the sense that the PCM (computer) is working. Sorry I can't offer more help.



That is OK thank you for all the help you have gave me my brother in law is going to test the sensors on sat or sun will let you know what we find out once again thank you

Please, read post # 49 on this thread.
You won't have spark via the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) if the engine doesn't turn.
Can you move the engine through an entire 360° revolution? As in: no mechanical damage internally?

Thought:

The anti-theft system may be preventing the car from starting. It would likely take the dealer to solve, if this is the situation.

Please, read post # 49 on this thread.
You won't have spark via the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) if the engine doesn't turn.
Can you move the engine through an entire 360° revolution? As in: no mechanical damage internally?



Yes

Thought:

The anti-theft system may be preventing the car from starting. It would likely take the dealer to solve, if this is the situation.Correct-a-mundo!

You'll need someone locally with the tools and talents to finish this diagnosis.
Then, all the bits and pieces will come together.

Please, read post # 49 on this thread.
You won't have spark via the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) if the engine doesn't turn.
Can you move the engine through an entire 360° revolution? As in: no mechanical damage internally?




Where is the crank position sensor located on a 98 pontiac grand am with a 2.4 motor

Correct-a-mundo!!

You'll need someone locally with the tools and talents to finish this diagnosis.
Then, all the bits and pieces will come together.





How do I test to find out if it is the anti theft system would that also cause it not to have spark

where is the crank position sensor located on a 98 pontiac grand am with a 2.4 motor
Lower front of engine.
28497

Viewed from the right front (RF):

28498


how do I test to find out if it is the anti theft system would that also cause it not to have spark
Even if you already have the experience to trace an open in the circuits, the list of steps in this diagnosis is far greater than can be posted here.
If you have the necessary diagnostic tools, you need the manual to diag the security system.

Lower front of engine.
28497

Viewed from the right front (RF):

28498


Even if you already have the experience to trace an open in the circuits, the list of steps in this diagnosis is far greater than can be posted here.
If you have the necessary diagnostic tools, you need the manual to diag the security system.





The crank sensor was unplugged and the wire was split they plugged the sensor in and fixed the wire and the car runs now thank you for all your help

Congratulations! I know this has been a real battle for you.

Congratulations! I know this has been a real battle for you.








Yes it has thank you for your help I really appreciate it the funny thing is they fixed it 2 days after my birthday so that was a great late birthday present