PDA

View Full Version : How to install shower in roughed-in area of basement


dgresh
Jan 1, 2010, 09:04 AM
Hi, great forum - have been reading quite a bit on installing shower bases. My question is this: I have an unfinished portion of my basement that is roughed in for a bathroom. There is a raiser (or what I think is a raiser) sticking about 10" above the cement floor.

I have a fiberglass shower base unit which has the drain opening roughly 15" from the back edge (measured to the center of the opening). Problem, is that the raiser appears to be about 13 1/2" from the toe plate (framing), measured to the center. I attempted to dry-fit the base to see how close it was, and the raiser appears to be off by 1/2" or so.

SO, I'm wondering what my options are. I'm trying to avoid having to break concrete, since it's so close to fitting, but is that the only way to do it? I'm guessing I can't just get a couple elbow shaped pipes to make it fit dimensionally, and then build up a pressure treated 2x4 frame for the base unit to sit on, right? I don't want to violate any codes.

Any help/insight would be much appreciated. Thanks so much, this is a great resource!

ps - tried to copy/paste a photo, but it wouldn't let me - how does one upload images? I don't see the trusty paperclip icon on the toolbar above...

massplumber2008
Jan 1, 2010, 12:58 PM
Hi Dgress...

You can always try to use an OFFSET SHOWER DRAIN ASSEMBLY... see image. These can be purchased at all plumbing supply stores, but not usually at the big box stores. Dry fit and see if that works for you.

Otherwise, you could always frame the wall out another 1.5" (2"x4" turned on its side) to make the 15" you need... ;)

If these all fail to work for you, plan on breaking out the jackhammer!

Are you planning to set the shower base in a bedding substrate such as mortar or structolite?

Back to you...

MARK

PS: to post a pic. Click on manage attachments just below the box you reply to me in. I don't see the need to post one in this case, at this time, however!

dgresh
Jan 1, 2010, 04:25 PM
Hi Mark,

Thanks for the quick reply. Great idea on the offset drain - I'll check that out. I wasn't very clear before - the dimensional problem is in the other direction - i.e. the raiser is too close to the wall, so adding furring strips or similar would make it worse. The offset drain may work though... otherwise it's off to the tool rental place...

As for setting the base in mortar (or similar), do you recommend that? I've been reading the many threads related to that on this site and have noticed a numer of people doing it. I guess it depends on if my cement floor is level? The fiberglass base already has the proper grading and "supposedly" does not need to be affixed to the subfloor for leveling purposes. However, I'm skeptical of the mfr's install instructions and will do whatever is considered the proper way of installing these shower bases/pans. So let me know what you recommend for this type of thing. For reference, there does appear to be a small lip leading up the raiser, but other then that the floor seems fairly level.

Thanks,
Dan

Ps - here's the pic I was trying to attach :)
27888

massplumber2008
Jan 1, 2010, 05:12 PM
Hi Dan...

Nope, you were clear.. I misread the measurements... ;)

My guess is that the offset drain will come close, but it won't be enough... may need to chop up some concrete. If you do chop up the concrete plan on making a bigger hole than a smaller hole. You need cut that pipe and keep dirt out. Use 22.5 degree fittings... purchase a street 22.5 degree fitting, too. Dry fit all and see how you make out.

In terms of using a bedding substrate (mortar or structolite) I would tell you to read up on the instructions provided with your shower base. Most manufacturers recommend a bedding substrate to reduce squeeking, but a couple don't. I use structolite whenever possible, even if I have a level floor, as it makes that plastic shower base feel like a custom concrete shower base... real solid!

The bedding substrate can also act to fill in the hole around the pipe once you are lined up correctly.

Keep us posted... O.K?

MARK

dgresh
Jan 2, 2010, 04:44 AM
Awesome! Thanks so much for your help Mark. I will update with the results...

Thanks again!

Hi Mark, here's a quick update:

The good news: the offset drain *does* provide enough space for the base to be installed - with about 1/4" to spare! LOL! Thanks for the excellent idea.

The bad news: the raiser appears to not be plumb - it's slightly angled (out of vertical alignment), so when I dry fit the pieces with the base, the base is pitched forward.

So am I still in the same predicament of having to break concrete to straighten the pipe? What a cruel twist of irony that would be! LOL!

Thanks again for all your help...

Dan

massplumber2008
Jan 2, 2010, 07:53 AM
Hi Dan...

Good news on the drain assembly!

In terms of the pipe being unplumb, you may be able to take a heat gun or a torch and slowly heat the pipe enough to allow you to bend it so it is straight. Here, for example, you would take a paint stripper heat gun and heat the plastic all around the pipe near the ground. Heat an area about 2 inches tall all around the pipe and it should start to soften enough that you can plumb it up without a problem.

Once the pipe is plumb (use a torpedo level to confirm) then you will take a wetted rag and cool the pipe in the straight position.

If you use a torch to do this be careful to keep the heat well away from the plastic to reduce the chances of burning the pipe. Given enough time the pipe will soften.

Let me know how it goes!

MARK

dgresh
Jan 16, 2010, 09:49 AM
Hi Mark,

Just wanted to update you: the heat gun trick worked like a charm! The pipe is now pretty plumb!

Thanks again!
Dan

speedball1
Jan 16, 2010, 10:11 AM
That's why Mark's "one of the best we have". His solutions are always "bang on".
I followed the discussion and was about to suggest furring out the wall to fit the base. If the offset drain doesn't work out for you then I would consider furring out the walls instead of breaking up cement and changing the drainage. Good luck, Tom

massplumber2008
Jan 16, 2010, 02:14 PM
Hi Dan... Sounds like you're all set then... thank you for updating me!

Tom... Dan said the offset drain worked with an extra 1/4" to spare in post #5... just that the pipe wasn't plumb... ;) Looks like he's all set now!

Thank you for nice words though...always fun working with you and all the other guys on the page!!