View Full Version : Is it OK to "finish" a garage with OSB, and do 2x4 trusses need to be beefed up?
pwd77
Dec 24, 2009, 03:44 PM
(I submitted this question before, but perhaps the poor title didn't hook any readers)
I'm thinking of "finishing" my connected garage with OSB instead of drywall, it would be faster, cheaper and easier. Are there any good reasons NOT to do this? Any opinions in favor?
(Note: the wall shared with the house is proper 5/8" drywall fire barrier)
Question 2:
As you can see from the photo below, the trusses are 2x4, 24" O.C. two 13' joined in the middle (mending plates shown; 26' wide total). Whether I did OSB or drywall, should I support the 2x4, either in the middle (say with an 8' 2x4) or sister along the entire length?
27666
It seems drywall would likely crack with such minimal support; however, 1/2" OSB would not only be lighter but add more structural support.
Any experience with either of these issues would be appreciated. Thanks!
KISS
Dec 25, 2009, 05:03 AM
A truss is a lot stronger than you think.
I just read in Handyman current issue, I think, that you need to seal the ends of cut OSB. Use a small roller. I forget what was used to seal it.
hkstroud
Dec 25, 2009, 05:06 AM
No reason to not use OSB if that's your preference.
The bottom 2x4's of the trusses are engineered to be ceiling joist for that span. No need to add any additional support unless you plan on using the attic as storage (as I see you are already doing). If you plan on using as a storage area I'd heavy up each joist by sistering on another 2x4 to each joist with joints at a different place (8-12-8).
pwd77
Dec 25, 2009, 11:10 AM
Thanks for the replies and information. So far its what I wanted to hear.
I looked and found a recent article in Family Handyman (http://www.rd.com/19557/article19557.html), very brief, that pits OSB against plywood regarding water damage. No info on sealing gaps in this article. I might do a "hack" job of sealing the gaps just to contain the insulation, but only if I can find something wood-colored.
That is also good info about the trusses. I assumed they were designed to be sheetrocked, but sometimes minimal code and/or common practice around here is not really adequate, so I REALLY value these additional opinions.
I was half expecting comments on fire safety/breach in fire code. However, the way I see it, it cannot be any worse than the unfinished state it is in now, EXCEPT I would likely put in a hard-wired electric heater so I can work in there in the winter.
freedhardwoods
Jan 2, 2010, 05:35 AM
Another option is to finish the ceiling and walls with metal panels. That is an option that many people are turning to. It is much lighter than osb or drywall, installs quickly, there are many colors to choose from, and you can get standard and/or custom made trim to make it look good.
pwd77
Jan 2, 2010, 09:10 AM
Another option is to finish the ceiling and walls with metal panels. That is an option that many people are turning to. It is much lighter than osb or drywall, installs quickly, there are many colors to choose from, and you can get standard and/or custom made trim to make it look good.
Interesting idea, 'hardwoods, thanks
Any suggestions? The same stuff you would put on a roof or side a building?
At one point I thought of it, but did not want to just make something up and end up with an ugly job with a bunch of sharp corners. I'd love to see how this could be done properly
freedhardwoods
Jan 2, 2010, 09:33 AM
I work here - Leaders in Post Building Manufacturing | Graber Post Buildings, Inc. (http://www.graberpost.com/) along with 150 other employees. They treat their employees great (no turnover) as well as their customers. They make trim to fit any situation, inside or out. No exposed sharp corners if you trim it out properly.
pwd77
Jan 2, 2010, 10:15 AM
Excellent, thanks for the info 'hardwoods, I'll check it out