I'm looking for feedback on replacing my exixting shower drain.

SHOWER - 1 piece fiberglass
STUBUP - 2" ABS
CURRENT CONNECTION- Brass hub w/Oakum and lead (Leaking)
ALIGNMENT ISSUE- The stubup is likely slightly out of plumb in relation to the drain as the trap is butted right against the joist (so tight the side of the joist has been shaved and notched to allow for the "knuckles" of the fitting joints.

I need to replace the current drain as plumbers putty/caulk are only temporary fixes and I'm about to install a coffered ceiling in the room below.

I've looked at glue-on and no-caulk replacements at the home centers as well as a brass drain from Kohler (K-9132). The Kohler uses either an "accordian" type rubber gasket that is driven into the joint to seal or the oakum/lead combo.

My concerns are:
1. The glue-on type will probably be most reliable, but cutting the stubup to the exact height will be difficult. Since I'm dealing with a fibergalss shower, any variance will put stress on the floor with the possibility of cracking over time.
2. How reliable are the no-caulk type drains from the home center? I DON'T want to tear into my new ceiling in a year or ten to replace the drain again (or repair water damage).

My guess is the current Oakum/Lead seal failed due to stress from settling and/or earthquakes (I live in Seattle and we had a pretty good one a couple years back).

I'm leaning toward the Kohler using the rubber gasket as it should allow for a slight amount of movement and tolerance for the alignment issue.

Any feedback and/or other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Several years ago, I added a trap to a dishwasher drain that was causing odors for lack of one. It was a commercial dishwasher in our church kitchen. Since I was redoing somebody else's work, I had alignment problems. I found a flexible trap allowing plenty of misalignment at a home center. I think it had a rubber sleeve top and bottom with hose clamps. No odors, and no leaks. You didn't mention a trap. If there is a rigid one, replace it with the flexible one. If no trap is visible, maybe instal a flexible one anyhow.

Something made for plumbing may be better than an automotive grade rubber hose. Plumbing needs to last forever. You expect to replace rubber auto parts eventually.

   Hi Gary,  Wingtite  Replacement Shower Drains might have just what your looking for.  This drain uses "O" rings for a secure connection, no glue or caulk.  Check it out at,    http://www.plumbrite.com/   and click on the installation tab. I've checked out the Kohler Drain.  It uses a retaining nut that may be difficult to install in a tight place.  You won't have to work underneith to secure the Wingtite as it is designed to replace without opening up the ceiling.   Good luck,  Tom

I guess my real question got lost in all the detail.

What's the most reliable connection type between the drain and the stubup?

The ceiling is already open and vertical clearance is not an issue. I will probably need to cut off a section of the existing stubup and replace it as I don't think I can chisel out the existing lead seal without damaging the current stubup.

Hi Gary, There is a way to remove the lead from a lead and okum joint. It's a tool called a "lead pic". I broke in on lead and okum joints over a hundred years ago, ( well, it seems that long). This tool looks like a caulking iron with the last inch curved to a small chisel point. You beat the iron down till the point hits the okum and is under the lead. Then you simply peel the lead ring out. To answer your question a glue joint would be the most secure. Use a PVC drain and be certain to purchase primer and make sure the glue is compatible with both ABS and PVC. When plastic pipe is joined together properly by glue it not only "glues" the two pipes together but also melts the joint so it's welded. Short of breaking or cutting it out it will never leak. Keep me informed of your progress. Cheers, Tom