I have a 92 honda civic lx sedan I was driving it and it just shut down on me.. ill start it up agina and will worked fine for about a mile or 2... then die again.. and now when I got home it won't start no more... changed fuel filter spart plugs and spark plug wires... replaced distributer and still won't work..

Umm, well hondas haven't always been reliable when it came to efficiency. Check the alternator, the starter cyllinoid, trans, stuff like that. Those could possibly be the issue, if they are not the let me know because ill have a better answer for you tomorrow

If the CEL comes on and goes off normally, when you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), then the problem is with the distributor. Over 50% of new aftermarket distributors have not worked at AMHD. I only recommend using genuine Honda distributor housings. Aftermarket Ignition Control Modules and coils can be bought, to save money, and installed in the Honda distributor housing. If you bought an aftermarket distributor, exchange it for another.

If the CEL comes on and goes off normally, when you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), then the problem is with the distributor. Over 50% of new aftermarket distributors have not worked at AMHD. I only recommend using genuine Honda distributor housings. Aftermarket Ignition Control Modules and coils can be bought, to save money, and installed in the Honda distributor housing. If you bought an aftermarket distributor, exchange it for another.

But I used a different distributor and its still doing the same problem..

umm, well hondas havnt always been reliable when it came to efficency. check the alternator, the starter cyllinoid, trans, stuff like that. those could possibly be the issue, if they are not the let me know because ill have a better answer for you tomorrow

All my buddies told me it can't be the alternator or starter...

Was the different distributor a new genuine Honda product? Aftermarket distributors for Hondas stink. They just are not reliable.

Perform tests, in the link below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-11.html#post2123675

Was the different distributor a new genuine Honda product? Aftermarket distributors for Hondas stink. They just are not reliable.

Perform tests, in the link below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-11.html#post2123675

Wasn't new.. it's a used one...

Mine is doing same thing, replace the ecm

mine is doing same thing, replace the ecm

Thanks ill try that..

thanks ill try that..

Put in used ecm (p06) still don't work..

If you are saying it threw a Code P06, that means there's a problem with the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor. It's a two-wire sensor, located under the distributor.

If you are saying it threw a Code P06, that means there's a problem with the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor. It's a two-wire sensor, located under the distributor.

No the car won't throw codes.. the CEL just stays on when its in position2.. I'm stuck and need the car running asap.. need it to go to work.. really hard to borrow car brcause everybody works too..

If the CEL stays on, when the ignition switch is turned to Position II, the problem is with the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse, in the under dash fuse/relay box; ECM (perform the K-Test, below); main relay; or the ignition switch. Perform tests in that order.

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

If the CEL stays on, when the ignition switch is turned to Position II, the problem is with the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse, in the under dash fuse/relay box; ECM (perform the K-Test, below); main relay; or the ignition switch. Perform tests in that order.

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it’s probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

I switched the ecu chip and re sodder the main relay too.. still don't work

What were the results of the K-Test?