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sue_fish
Dec 16, 2009, 09:13 PM
I have a 92 honda civic lx sedan I was driving it and it just shut down on me.. ill start it up agina and will worked fine for about a mile or 2... then die again.. and now when I got home it won't start no more... changed fuel filter spart plugs and spark plug wires... replaced distributer and still won't work..

rmderke
Dec 17, 2009, 04:21 AM
Umm, well hondas haven't always been reliable when it came to efficiency. Check the alternator, the starter cyllinoid, trans, stuff like that. Those could possibly be the issue, if they are not the let me know because ill have a better answer for you tomorrow

TxGreaseMonkey
Dec 17, 2009, 08:36 AM
If the CEL comes on and goes off normally, when you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), then the problem is with the distributor. Over 50% of new aftermarket distributors have not worked at AMHD. I only recommend using genuine Honda distributor housings. Aftermarket Ignition Control Modules and coils can be bought, to save money, and installed in the Honda distributor housing. If you bought an aftermarket distributor, exchange it for another.

sue_fish
Jan 1, 2010, 12:23 PM
If the CEL comes on and goes off normally, when you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), then the problem is with the distributor. Over 50% of new aftermarket distributors have not worked at AMHD. I only recommend using genuine Honda distributor housings. Aftermarket Ignition Control Modules and coils can be bought, to save money, and installed in the Honda distributor housing. If you bought an aftermarket distributor, exchange it for another.

But I used a different distributor and its still doing the same problem..

sue_fish
Jan 1, 2010, 12:24 PM
umm, well hondas havnt always been reliable when it came to efficency. check the alternator, the starter cyllinoid, trans, stuff like that. those could possibly be the issue, if they are not the let me know because ill have a better answer for you tomorrow

All my buddies told me it can't be the alternator or starter...

TxGreaseMonkey
Jan 1, 2010, 12:26 PM
Was the different distributor a new genuine Honda product? Aftermarket distributors for Hondas stink. They just are not reliable.

Perform tests, in the link below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-11.html#post2123675

sue_fish
Jan 1, 2010, 12:40 PM
Was the different distributor a new genuine Honda product? Aftermarket distributors for Hondas stink. They just are not reliable.

Perform tests, in the link below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-11.html#post2123675

Wasn't new.. it's a used one...

jg242495
Jan 6, 2010, 03:20 PM
Mine is doing same thing, replace the ecm

sue_fish
Jan 26, 2010, 12:19 AM
mine is doing same thing, replace the ecm

Thanks ill try that..

sue_fish
Jan 26, 2010, 11:14 AM
thanks ill try that..

Put in used ecm (p06) still don't work..

TxGreaseMonkey
Jan 26, 2010, 11:36 AM
If you are saying it threw a Code P06, that means there's a problem with the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor. It's a two-wire sensor, located under the distributor.

sue_fish
Jan 26, 2010, 09:29 PM
If you are saying it threw a Code P06, that means there's a problem with the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor. It's a two-wire sensor, located under the distributor.

No the car won't throw codes.. the CEL just stays on when its in position2.. I'm stuck and need the car running asap.. need it to go to work.. really hard to borrow car brcause everybody works too..

TxGreaseMonkey
Jan 27, 2010, 07:25 AM
If the CEL stays on, when the ignition switch is turned to Position II, the problem is with the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse, in the under dash fuse/relay box; ECM (perform the K-Test, below); main relay; or the ignition switch. Perform tests in that order.

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

sue_fish
Jan 28, 2010, 10:37 PM
If the CEL stays on, when the ignition switch is turned to Position II, the problem is with the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse, in the under dash fuse/relay box; ECM (perform the K-Test, below); main relay; or the ignition switch. Perform tests in that order.

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it’s probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

I switched the ecu chip and re sodder the main relay too.. still don't work

TxGreaseMonkey
Jan 29, 2010, 08:01 AM
What were the results of the K-Test?