All right, I have searched through these forums and tried to piece an answer to my dilemma from various different responses, but am still not having any luck getting this to work. Here's my situation. I have a Bryant heat pump with emergency heat (model 663CJ036-F) that I want to replace my Bryant tstat with a Honeywell programmable tstat. The current config to my Bryant tstat is

W - White
O - Orange
G - Green
R - Red
C - Blue
Y - Yellow

On my new Honeywell tstat, I connected things as follows:

C - Blue
G - Green
Y - Yellow
O/B - Orange
Red - R with jumper to RC
White - Aux with jumper to E (emergency)

Now, for section 170 of the setup, I chose setting 2, since I have a heat pump without backup or aux heat (yes, I know, I connected White to aux, but it's because I didn't know where else it would go). (I've even tried taking the White wire straight to E without a jumper to Aux, but didn't have any luck with that either - more on this later). Anyway, in the program setup, I'm never presented with the option of setting 270 (emergency heat Cycle rate), which I'm guessing is because I've got a wire out of place.

Even with the setup I have above, I can still program everything and the heat will kick on when the temp reaches my programmed level. However, when the heat does kick on, it blows cold air and never really reaches the temperature I set to make it turn back off. As a matter of fact, the first night I used it, the temperature dropped to 55 and never came back up to the programmed 63. I even switched over to AC to make sure that when that kicked on, it wasn't blowing hot air, indicating I switched a wire somewhere, which it didn't (it blew cold air as well). Whenever I place my Bryant tstat back on, the heat and air work as normal. Now, here are my questions:

1. Can anyone see anything out of the ordinary in how I wired the system?
2. I'm guessing that the cold air coming out when the heater kicks on is because the fan also kicks on (there is only an "Auto" and "On" setting). I disconnected the Green wire, thinking that this was for the blower, but the air was still cold when the heat was on. Is the green wire the correct one to disconnect?
3. Even though I have emergency heat and can have it kick on with my old Bryant tstat, I can't get that option on my new one. Is that a limitation of this Honeywell tstat even though emergency heat (E) is an option?
4. Is there a better model out there that anyone would recommend I buy if this Honeywell I have turns out to be a bust?

Thanks for any and all recommendations/hints/information.

Wait a minute... first you said "Bryant heat pump with emergency heat"... then followed with "heat pump without backup or aux heat".. If #170 is set to "2", the thermostat won't present option #270... it is a sub-option of enabling #170. Change that, and see if auxiliary (?) works.

1. You need to connect W. W is call for heat.
2. With HP the thermostat (G) controls the fan. In emergency electric heat, the furnace controls the fan.
3. You seem to be missing a terminal like W? Or Aux on the Bryant stat to control emergency heat directly. The EM heat position basically is to not allow the compressor to come on because it's broken.

There doesn't appear to be any fundamental reason why it won't work. EM may come on based on plenum temperature or outside temp, but it doesn't appear to be controlled by the stat.

I didn't try to find the manual to see how you would connect the thermostat to have control over emergency heat. You seem to be lacking a wire and don't have a 2 stage thermostat in either case.

O/B is a programmable terminal. It determines whether the reversing valve is on or off for heating.

Wait a minute...first you said "Bryant heat pump with emergency heat"...then followed with "heat pump without backup or aux heat"...? If #170 is set to "2", the thermostat won't present option #270...it is a sub-option of enabling #170. Change that, and see if auxiliary (?) works.
KC13,

Thanks for the quick reply. My understanding was that aux heat/backup heat is different than them heat. If that's not the case, that may be where I'm making my mistake in the program. I've included an online link to the manual where, on page 16, I would choose option 7?

http://customer.honeywell.com/techlit/pdf/PackedLit/69-2221EF.pdf

Fig 8 and 9, which could be your HP: http://www.xpedio.carrier.com/idc/groups/public/documents/techlit/wd661c.18.8.pdf#xml=http://www.xpedio.carrier.com/idc/idcplg?IdcService=GET_XML_HIGHLIGHT_INFO&QueryText=dDocTitle+%3Csubstring%3E+%60663c%60+%3C OR%3E+dDocName+%3Csubstring%3E+%60663c%60+%3COR%3E +%28663c%29&SortField=dInDate&SortOrder=Desc&dDocName=WD661C.18.8&HighlightType=PdfHighlight

Mention something in note 5: to use thermostat specifed in sales literature, whatever that means. W2 is on the terminal block.

It IS possible that the HP operates in a non-standard way such as. O energised with Y for heat and O not energized with Y for cool and W2 energised for Aux heat.

So, you really need a 2 stage stat.

1. You need to connect W. W is call for heat.
2. With HP the thermostat (G) controls the fan. In emergency electric heat, the furnace controls the fan.
3. You seem to be missing a terminal like W? or Aux on the Bryant stat to control emergency heat directly. The EM heat position basically is to not allow the compressor to come on because it's broken.

There doesn;t appear to be any fundamental reason why it won't work. EM may come on based on plenum temperature or outside temp, but it doesn;t appear to be controlled by the stat.

I didn't try to find the manual to see how you would connect the thermostat to have control over emergency heat. You seem to be lacking a wire and don't have a 2 stage thermostat in either case.

O/B is a programmable terminal. It determines whether the reversing valve is on or off for heating.

KISS,

Thanks for the quick reply. I wired things according to page 23 of the manual (http://customer.honeywell.com/techlit/pdf/PackedLit/69-2221EF.pdf), connecting W to Aux with a jumper to E.

Thanks.

Disconnect the white wire. See if heat and cool work with no aux heat.

I think 0170 should be a 7: 7 Heat pump: Heat pump with backup or auxiliary heating.

Connect W of the old stat to a jumpered E to aux of the new one.

Make sure Rc and R are jumpered and connected to R of the old stat.

I think that will work.

I think 0170 should be a 7: 7 Heat pump: Heat pump with backup or auxiliary heating.

Connect W of the old stat to a jumpered E to aux of the new one.

Make sure Rc and R are jumpered and connected to R of the old stat.

I think that will work.

KISS,

Yes, changing 170 to setting 7 does give me the them heat option (270) now. The air blowing out when the heat kicks on is still cooler than what it was with my old Bryant stat on, which I assume is because of the fan kicking on with the heat and cooling the air down a bit.

I can see having the fan kick on as being helpful in the summer when the AC kicks on, but it doesn't make much sense with the heat, IMO.

Is there a wire I can disconnect to make sure that only the heat kicks on (ie no fan comes on as well)?

I should note, that when I turn on them heat, the air blowing out is nice and warm.

Would there be a disadvantage to using this all of the time? If I had to guess, I'd say my heat pump would malfunction if running on them heat all of the time?

Thanks for you help.

The stat could actually be cooling, not heating. Check the setting of 0190 and make sure heat heats and cool cools.

The fan has to kick on. It's the only way the system works. Return air is brought in and heated with the fan. The difference is Heat uses a low speed on the fan and cool typically uses a higher one.

The "em heat" basically disables the heat pump. That's its function.

If things go as they are supposed to, the HP works until the outdoor temp is typically around 32F, then the AUX heat and the HP work until another temp, possibly 15F. Below the 15F, only the aux heat works.

Using them heat all the time increases your electric bill.

My concerns right now, are:
With a small temp difference between room and tstat does these things happen:

1. it will take a while for the HP to start delivering hot air.
2. Is it indeed heating when in heat mode and cooling when in cool mode. They could be reversed.
3. Is low speed fan used in heat and high speed used in cool.

You should see about a 15 deg drop or rise in air temperature depending on mode.

I'm thinking that:
1. You didn't let it run long enough
2. It's way too cold outside
3. The O/B mode Heat/Cool mode is reversed
4. A heat pump problem (rise/fall in temperature)




A couple of other things:

0190 = 0; O terminal
0240 =9 ; electric heating rate
0270 =9; Backup electric heating rate
0300 -0; your choice

KISS,

I was able to change 0190 to 0 PRIOR to chaning 0170 to 7. When I change 0170 to 7, the program passes 0190.

And I'm basing the air coming out as being "cool" compared to what would happen when the Bryant stat was used. When the heat would kick on with the Bryant, the immediately air blowing out was warmer than the air immediately blowing out with the HW stat.

I appreciate all your assistance, but I think I may take this HW stat back and find one that allows me to be a little more picky with how things work. Right now, the Bryant stat is back on the wall and keeping my house warm. :)

Thanks again.

Aparently, the thermost connections for this unit are a bit complicated. See: http://www.xpedio.carrier.com/idc/groups/public/documents/techlit/ii663c-18-2.pdf#xml=http://www.xpedio.carrier.com/idc/idcplg?IdcService=GET_XML_HIGHLIGHT_INFO&QueryText=dDocTitle+%3Csubstring%3E+%60663c%60+%3C OR%3E+dDocName+%3Csubstring%3E+%60663c%60+%3COR%3E +%28663c%29&SortField=dInDate&SortOrder=Desc&dDocName=II663C-18-2&HighlightType=PdfHighlight