The tank is set @ 40 psi. the max working pressure is 125, how can I raise the pressure safely without damage to the tank or myself?

I can't wait for this answer or answers. My water pressure is lousy in my house too. If I run the washing machine I have hardly any pressure in my kitchen sink tap, or anywhere else. If someone flushes the toilet, you can kiss all the pressure goodbye !

Tick

Tick & Tuck,
How old are your homes? What type of pipes? Copper, Plastic or galvanized?
Pump or city water?
Tick has a volume problem but I'll need more details from Tuck.
Tuck, does your system act like Ticks? Back to you guys, Tom

Hi, tom, this is tick but not tuck (yet) house was built in the l940s, was on septic and well until about the 60s when the town took over. Our pipes are copper now, I guess, yes...

I don't use a lot of water, cold for my laundry, two showers a day in the house, not much activity in the kitchen sink until I turn the dishwasher on (hot water, new tank) twice a week.

Your thoughts for tick, not tuck yet, tom... to you

If you are on city water ask the water department what psi they are sending you and compare to your home. It may be all you are going to get from the city. On a well you can raise the tank pressure be setting the pump cutoff set point higher. If I assume neither of you have a PRV (pressure reducing valves) will I be safe?

Tuck, you're on a well. Whatever you do, you won't be raising pressure to 125. You can, however, increase the cut off point. 60# or so is generally considered the highest point you want to go. This site gives a great description of how its done:

How to adjust water pump pressure, pump cut-on pressure and pump cut-off pressure - private pump and well system do-it-yourself repairs (http://www.inspectapedia.com/water/WaterPumpAdjust.htm)

Bear in mind that the higher the pressure, the more work your pump must do, which shortens its life somewhat. Your pump will generally cutoff at a point about 20# higher than the cut in point. So, if the pump turns on when pressure drops to 40#, then it will generally cutoff at 60#. That 20# interval can be changed. Again, the website tells you how, but the 20# interval is usually kept.

You will also need to readust the pressure at the top of your tank, assuming you have a bladder tank which you probably do. Once you get the system pressure set where you want it, you will set the tank pressure at 2# BELOW the cut in pressure. Do this by turning off the system, draining the tank pressure by opening a low level faucet, setting the tank pressure through the valve at the top of the tank, then turning the system back on.

Good morning tick,

Our pipes are copper now, I guess, yes... I broke into plumbing back in the 40's and unless you've had a repipe job since then you have galvanized pipes. Scrape one of them and tell me its color. Let me know, Tom

Tuck, Follow jlisenbes advice and if that doesn't get it click on back and tell us about it. Regards, Tom

Good morning tick,
I broke into plumbing back in the 40's and unless you've had a repipe job since then you have galvanized pipes. Scrape one of them and tell me its color. Let me know, Tom



Hi tom, they are copper, obviously all done over a few years ago when they put a kitchen addition on the back of the house. I guess they did it all over when the house was taken on septic and well and put on town utilities.

Tick

Hi Tick,
Do you have a pressure reducing valve installed? What's the PSI comung into your house? This can be measured with a hose bib pressure gage, (see image) bought at your local hardware store.
Lert's nail this problem down. Tom