I'm looking to have two Motion Sensor on one circuit. Long walk and want one sensor at both ends.

The Sensor I'm using:
http://rikain.com/Manuals/Intruder_alarms/Lynteck/ES34.pdf

Also Note the Sensor I'm using allows you to switch it 'off' and 'on' quickly in order to override the sensor and have it stay on for a period.

The following is the circuit I'm looking to build:
http://frankny.com/electrical/2sensors.jpg

The short red vertical wire at the box (box where wires meet) needs to be removed.

The short red vertical wire at the box (box where wires meet) needs to be removed.


KeepItSimpleStupid, Thanks. Maybe my drawing is confusing but I assume I need to have all wires in the LS channel connected to allow all lights to be turned on by either sensor. Otherwise if I remove that connection the lights will be operated independently.

Assume that vertical line just means the wire terminate at that point. If I leave that connection as drawn will the circuits work?

Thanks again, BBriggs

Your right. Sorry. The drawing is confusing. The two gold verticle lines heading downward probably should have been red.

Using black (hot), White ( a tough one) and RED (Switched hot) which are the same wires in the cable would have helped too. These are the same colors in say typical 14/3 cable.

Looks OK.

If your really unsure, you can breadbord it up with 2 detectors and 1 light and one of my famous "killmequicks". It would not be unusual for me to do something like stuff wires into an extension cord to get simple power for a test spread out on the floor.

Light bulbs in SERIES with the power make great current dependent resistors. So a 100 W bulb in series with your power switch and a night light load will basically say your circuit if shorted can draw no more than 100 W.

The cold resistance of a lamp is about 10-15 times less then the resistance when hot. That's why it works. You mst have minimum loads if the motion detector using a solid state switch.