I had a new shower pan installed and the drain plate looks like it is not seated flat. It appears that there is a rubber gasket right below the drain plate. I would normally call the installer back but he did such a crappy job remodeling our bathroom, I never want to see him again. Found out he was on meth. Anyhow, does this drain plate unscrew? If so, should I use a sealer besides the rubber gasket?

Drains sometimes have screw but you'd see the whole, do you? Many drain plates just have 2 or 3 little tabs sticking down around the edge, that tap slips between the pan and the rubber gasket with some force. Any chance of a picture of it?

There are no screws holding the drain plate but there is a notch on each side of the plate. I didn't know if the plate snapped in or screws in. Any ideas?

No visible screws but there is a notch on each side of there drain plate.

Must be a snap in if there is no screw hole

Post a close up photo of it... with cover on and with cover off. Thanks

Are we talking about a strainer,(see image) or the drain itself? (see image)_


It appears that there is a rubber gasket right below the drain plate. That's not correct. The rubber gasket installs UNDER the shower base not under the drain lip. (see image) Back to you, Tom

Thank you for the answer. Now to fix it. Does it take a special tool to unscrew the drain plate? There are no screws holding it down just a notch on each side of the plate.

Let's get together on terms. By "drain plate" are you referringto the strainer or the drain itself? What material are your pipes and drain made of. Plastic or metal? Please answer my question about the rubber gasket . Let me know, Tom

All pipes are plastic. There is definitely a rubber gasket under the" drain plate ". By drain plate I mean the chrome strainer . Evidently, the rubber gasket should not have been installed under the chrome strainer. And the chrome strainer does not sit flat on the shower pan. The pan being fiberglass. I didn't know if this chrome strainer or drain plate snaps in or unscrews. And then the matter of placing the rubber gasket in the right place. Hope it isn't too late to fix this as the shower is completed and the porcelain tiles are alreay on the walls. Don't want to pull the shower pan now.

That is correct: the gasket should be installed UNDER the pan, not on top of it.

You won't be able to remove it from the top. You will most-likely have to get to it from under neath. If you yank it out - the shower will leak.

Is your house on slab or raised foundation ? Is this shower on 1st or 2nd floor ?

There is no way to get to it from underneath as the home is built on a slab and the bathroom is in the basement. They had to jackhammer the concrete to install the drains. Isn't there a way to remove the chrome strainer plate from above?

Ok, there is a hope. You may have drain that is installed and sealed from the top. ( not the one that Tom shows in his sketch). Take the strainer off and snap photo of the inside of the drain. Post it for us to see.

Does the strainer snap in or turn in? There are no visible screws.

Tom, I noticed on your first reply that the diagram referred to using either plumbers putty or silicone. Which one is generally used? I would think the silicone would be a lot easier to use.

Martyp: if there are no visible screws than it is Snap-In drain cover. Take flat skinny screwdriver, put it bet. The drain and cover and pop it out.

Marty, to upload photos:

1. click on "go advanced"
2. click on "Manage attachments"
3. click on "browse"
4. select your photo to upload
5. click on "upload"
6. click on "save changes"

Photo will appear

Thank you for the tip Milo. Hopefully you get the pics.

Thanks for the photos. It tells the whole story...

Problem: The body of the drain is attached with large nut from under neath. If you somehow take that black washer out, it will create large gap and the drain will become loose. The pan will leak.

I don't see a way of sealing it from above - other then getting under and tightening that nut. My other worry is that that black washer should be installed under neath the pan, between the pan and the nut, and pushed against the pan. That's what seals the drain against leaks. The original plumber got confused and installed the washer on top. That's why it is too high. And of course, that's wrong.

Let's wait for other Experts to join in with their offer opinions...

Tom, I noticed on your first reply that the diagram referred to using either plumbers putty or silicone. Which one is generally used? I would think the silicone would be a lot easier to use.

Either one's acceptable. We always used plumbers putty but then I've been retired for over 20 years. Milo's trying to let you down easy. Your plumber goofed and installed the drain wrong. There is no simple repair. The floor must be opened up and the drain reinstalled correctly. Good luck, Tom

Do you know the brand and model of than acrylic pan you have there? On the Oatey gasket, can you tell us what else it says like a part number or serial number?

I just had all the walls tiled and glass shower doors installed and now the pan has to come out. Ouch!! Will this drain leak that bad?? Can it be sealed from above enough to get by?

Will it leak, why not test it but answer my questions in post #21

I just had all the walls tiled and glass shower doors installed and now the pan has to come out. Ouch!!! Will this drain leak that bad??? Can it be sealed from above enough to get by??

You can caulk the drain lip with Silicon Jel and hope. After you caulk and it sets up jam some rags down the drain and put a inch or so of water in the shower. If you don't see a leak after it sets for a hour then you've contained the leak. Good luck, tom

Try this: once you yank out that black rubber seal you will be left with about 1/8" gap between the lip of the drain and the pan. You can dry out the flange/drain area with hair dryer and when ABSOLUTELY DRY squeeze in, and underneath, the lip lots of good clear silicone, like 50 year GE product. Do not apply with fingers, apply with carefully cut silicone tube tip. Then, push the drain flap into it by tapping it with hammer over block of wood. Let dry for 3 days. Absolutely NO WATER. Then, Cut off excess of silicone with box cutter.

I just had all the walls tiled and glass shower doors installed and now the pan has to come out. Ouch!!! Will this drain leak that bad??? Can it be sealed from above enough to get by??

You can caulk the drain lip with Silicon Jel. After it sets up jam dome rags down the drain to seal it and fill the shower with a inch of water. Let it set for a hour and if you don't see any moisture then you've contained your leak. Good luck, Tom

The pan is a Lasco 6034 cpan and the oaty drain has the following : SBCCI, PST&ESI, ASTM,D2661.

If Marty can answer my questions in post #21 I may have the solution. Its an Oatey for sure but which one. Some acrlic pans, like Swanstone and Florestone, use a special sleeve that is driven down over the 2" PVC and between the shower sump making the seal. That larger black washer may not even be needed. Look at his pics, I think I can see the sleeve between the pipe and the gasket.

The Oatey has the following : SBCCI, PST&ESI, ASTM D2661, D2665. The acrylic pan is a Lasco 6034 CPAN.

Well according to Lasco that pan came with a brass drain flange so my thoughts won't work, sorry.

If Marty can answer my questions in post #21 I may have the solution. Its an Oatey for sure but which one. Some acrlic pans, like Swanstone and Florestone, use a special sleeve that is driven down over the 2" PVC and between the shower sump making the seal. That larger black washer may not even be needed. Look at his pics, I think I can see the sleeve between the pipe and the gasket.

I think it is regular fat washer that fits over the pipe and is squeezed down, and against the pipe with notched, large, black plastic nut.

Just to make one thing clear: Of course, there is another black, plastic nut under the pan holding the drain against the pan itself. Just like the one Tom posted in his post #5.

Either one's acceptable. We always used plumbers putty but then I've been retired for over 20 years. Milo's trying to let you down easy. Your plumber goofed and installed the drain wrong. There is no simple repair. The floor must be opened up and the drain reinstalled correctly. Good luck, Tom

Tom, we still use plumber's putty !

I'm not a lumber but I have had silicone peel away after a wile so I am leaning towards the putty. Maybe there is a good silicone product out there that I am not aware of.

It peeled off because the surface it was applied to was not clean. We use Denaturated Alcohol in spray bottle. We spray the area with it and wipe it clean and dry with clean terry cloth. Only then we apply silicone.

Problem with putty application in your situation is that putty will not hold the drain down to the pan. Silicone will. Once remove the rubber washer you will have a large gap left. That gap has to go. You will have to push the drain flange down after you apply silicone, put weight on it, and leave it there for 72 hours minimum to dry. Only then you will have good chance for positive seal.

Remember, you cannot get under the pan to tighten the large nut to pull the drain body nice 'n' tight against the pan.

Thank you for the info. I'll try it.

Milo, the little alcohol tip is worth remembering. Thanks.

Actually, a drain did not come with the Lasco pan. We got the plastic Oatey drain at the hardware store. Hopefully it is the one that doesn't need the rubber washer. Thank you for the info. This answer refers to Ballengerb1's answer earlier.

Actually, Milo gave the great tip. Always like to get kind words, but I have to pass that one on to him.