Hi, I have a 99 mitsubishi eclipse non turbo, automatic.. well i.ve worked on the car for the past year and still no luck.. I've replaced my camshaft position sensor and my crankshaft position sensor, fuel filter, timing belt (timing is dead on I used a timing light for it), replaced the bearings on my piston rods( which was the problem in the first place, motor made a knocking noise and that was it). Well I cleaned my injectors and the pistons. Now hers where it gets crazy.. after I put the motor back together it ran for maybe 10 min then I went to drive it around the block and it just cut off.. no blinking lights nothing just shut off, well when I got it back to my house I tore it back down and found coolent in my piston chambers.. well that was my fault the head gasket was a piece of S@$#.. I replaced that with a much better one and tried to start it again and now it just turns over but will not crank up and run.. now I have fuel, spark because my fuel rail will spew it out if I press the little nob that's on it to check for pressure.. and I did a test for spark too and I have that.. I'm pretty much stumped at this point.. o and also my car is not throwing any codes from the ecu/pcm but I've had people tell me that this is a ECU problem.. I really need some help guys.. this was my first car I got when I was a teen and I'd love to have her running again but if you have questions I'll be here to answer them.. and help is GREATLY appreciated..

Kelly

I forgot to add that I also checked all the relays on the car too.. and everything checks out.. I also just replaced the coil pack on it too.. so once again I'm stumped lol.

Did you position the number one piston on top dead center meaning did you have someone crank your engine with quick key turns but disconnected the spark wire.Number one plug should have been pluged were the sparkplug goes into with a small towel shoved into the hole. Sometimes you can be 1 to 2 degrees off and your car can run then stop.when it ran did you have power? A timing light is used when your car is running on the num. 1 plug .There are 4 strokes a piston does but when you get top dead center your rotor should be facing num. 1 plug . If not then your off 180 degree meaning that the rotor may be facing the opposite direction.Let me know if this is what has been done.

Did you position the number one piston on top dead center meaning did you have someone crank your engine with quick key turns but disconnected the spark wire.Number one plug should have been pluged were the sparkplug goes into with a small towel shoved into the hole. sometimes you can be 1 to 2 degrees off and your car can run then stop.when it ran did you have power? A timing light is used when your car is running on the num. 1 plug .There are 4 strokes a piston does but when you get top dead center your rotor should be facing num. 1 plug . If not then your off 180 degree meaning that the rotor may be facing the opposite direction.Let me know if this is what has been done.

Yea I made sure it was Top dead center.. I bought the haynes book for my car and did everyhting to the car by that book.. and when it ran it did have power but it only ran for maybe 10 to 12 minutes until I drove it and 30 ft from where I started it shut off and would not start back up..

You are assuming that you have fuel based on the fact that you have fuel at the schrader valve at the fuel rail. Have you checked to see whether you are getting injector pulse? I mean, fuel pressure at the rail is great, but if the injectors aren't spraying, your cylinders are getting no fuel. Have you tried starting the vehicle on some starting fluid perhaps? Since you do have a schrader valve, have you checked to see what the fuel pressure is. Its time for you to go back to basics here and simplify, not complicate matters. If the engine is mechanically sound; good compression, timed correctly. Then you'll have to move on to other items. You need, air, fuel and spark. Obviously you aren't in a vacuum, so air is pretty abundant unless you've somehow got your intake blocked off. You say you have spark, so it seems to me you're missing fuel.

I'd examine the distributor or equivalent for cracks clean the connections make sure that is good. Then check the ground make sure it got a good clean ground from the battery to the motor and motor to frame. Then id check the wire make sure there hooked to the right cylinders. If all that checks out then id check to see if the relay to the injectors is bad. This stuff takes all of about 1hr to check and in my experience it normally pans out and it don't cost to check them yourself

I'd examine the distributor or equivalent for cracks clean the connections make sure that is good. then check the ground make sure it got a good clean ground from the battery to the motor and motor to frame. then id check the the wire make sure there hooked to the right cylinders. If all that checks out then id check to see if the relay to the injectors is bad. this stuff takes all of about 1hr to check and in my experience it normally pans out and it dont cost to check them your self

Yea I've checked all those too, I even replaced my distributor and the spark plug wires and checked all my connections to everything. I also checked all my relays they all checked out, my uncle car a dodge intrepid and the relays are the same on that car as my eclipse so I switched them out just to retest them and still nothing changed.. but when I cut my car to the ON position there's a very high pitched whine from my ECU, it's very faint but I'm 100% positive it's coming from my ECU could that have something to do with a bad ECU?

You really need to stop and go back to basics. Have you determined WHY the car won't start? Is the engine timed correct, good compression? Do you have adequate fuel pressure & injector pulse? You keep bouncing around from fuel to relays to this and that and ECU. You need AIR, FUEL and IGNITION with a mechanically sound engine to have it run. If you have good f/p at the rail and say no injector pulse, why? The ECU can be faulty causing no injector pulse. Swapping parts is a pathetic way to fix anything!

You really need to stop and go back to basics. Have you determined WHY the car won't start? Is the engine timed correct, good compression? Do you have adequate fuel pressure & injector pulse? You keep bouncing around from fuel to relays to this and that and ECU. You need AIR, FUEL and IGNITION with a mechanically sound engine to have it run. If you have good f/p at the rail and say no injector pulse, why? The ECU can be faulty causing no injector pulse. Swapping parts is a pathetic way to fix anything!

I completely understand what your saying but I've checked literally everything on this car in depth and rechecked it again. I wasn't trying to just swap parts this is a 99 eclipse that has never had work on the motor before and ran perfectly but I replaced the things that the haines book said I needed to replace after a certain # of years. But since you said something about the injector pulse I remember my uncle took it to a local shop and they said that it wasn't getting full power to my injectors but they could'nt find out why, if my ECU is faulty would'nt my check engine light be on? Or what would symptoms of it be besides the car not starting? Currently my CEL is not on at all. But when I cut the car to the on position it stays on for 3 sec. then cuts off like normal..

something about the injector pulse i remember my uncle took it to a local shop and they said that it wasn't getting full power to my injectors but they could'nt find out why, if my ECU is faulty would'nt my check engine light be on? or what would symptoms of it be besides the car not starting? currently my CEL is not on at all. but when i cut the car to the on postion it stays on for 3 sec. then cuts off like normal..

That is what I have been getting at. Noid nights can be purchased/ loaned from many parts stores. Disconnect a fuel injector and pop one in and attempt to start the engine, see if the ecu is even turning them on. If not, you'll need to find out why. There are also companies out there that rebuild ecus. If you do have a ecu that went bad, you'll need to find out what caused it. They do go bad from time to time, but if you have a short somewhere, simply replacing an ecu won't do you any good because the new one will get fried just the same. Could it be that you may have damaged some wires or a sensor when you did all of your previous repairs? Learning is one thing, but you need to be methodical about it, not swap out relays or this or that and assume. That will get real expensive in no time at all. Your check engine light does a bulb check whenever you turn it to the on position. That simply means that the bulb check has been performed. ECUs can fail in many ways, the light being on or not is not enough to suggest one thing or the other. Again, verify that the engine is put together correctly, valve timing, good compression, verify that you have correct ignition timing, check the fuel pressure with a gauge, check for injector pulse, check for spark.

That is what I have been getting at. Noid nights can be purchased/ loaned from many parts stores. Disconnect a fuel injector and pop one in and attempt to start the engine, see if the ecu is even turning them on. If not, you'll need to find out why. There are also companies out there that rebuild ecus. If you do have a ecu that went bad, you'll need to find out what caused it. They do go bad from time to time, but if you have a short somewhere, simply replacing an ecu won't do you any good because the new one will get fried just the same. Could it be that you may have damaged some wires or a sensor when you did all of your previous repairs? Learning is one thing, but you need to be methodical about it, not swap out relays or this or that and assume. That will get real expensive in no time at all. Your check engine light does a bulb check whenever you turn it to the on position. That simply means that the bulb check has been performed. ECUs can fail in many ways, the light being on or not is not enough to suggest one thing or the other. Again, verify that the engine is put together correctly, valve timing, good compression, verify that you have correct ignition timing, check the fuel pressure with a gauge, check for injector pulse, check for spark.

Okay I completely rechecked the car for everything you metioned above, timing is perfect, I have good compression, I also went and borrowed a gauge for my F/P and it checks out, and I have spark. The engine and all the electrical componets I checked with a volt meter for power and they ALL showed good juice EXCEPT for my Injectors, I took the cable for it out and checked it and no open cuts or parts that looked broke in anyway, I can't seem to find any other problems that would cause the loss of power to the injectors expect a bad ECU, and I can't really see if there is something wrong with the nodes in it because mine has some kind of material in it that's like clear rubber in it ( not exactly sure what it's called) but I can't really check anything.. even though it looks good it might not be good..

Bump