We are building a wall (our very first) as part of our DIY kitchen renovation. There is no subfloor in this spot, and the joists that we are nailing into are not level -- the 3 joists in the middle of the wall are about 1/8" higher than the joists on either side. We tried to level the joists with blocking but couldn't get them to a uniform height. We were thinking that it would be easier if we could just cut the bottom plate into 3 separate sections, which would be at different heights, and then cut the individual stud lengths accordingly. Does this sound okay? Or will it hurt the structural integrity of the wall? It is non-load bearing, but it will support our main kitchen cabinets and cement board, so we do want it to be sturdy. Any other thoughts? Can shims be used in this application, or are they not strong enough?

We have the same problem with the top plate (there is a header in the way that is lower than joists on either side of it) -- but here we thought that shims might be more appropriate since they will not be bearing weight.

Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer!

Leveling a wall doesn't do you much good, because what are you going to do about the floor,because it won't be level?

My idea would be a track saw such as this with a dado blade if it could accommodate one and level the entire floor.

Dewalt DC351KL Heavy-Duty 6-1/2 (165mm) 28V TrackSaw Kit - Toolfetch.com (http://www.toolfetch.com/Category/Panel_Saws/Saw_Guide_Systems/DC351KL.htm)

Not sure exactly how it might work

Or this: Tracksaw Applications for Track Saws - Understanding the Plunge Cut Track Saw & Guide Rail (http://www.tracksaw.com/tracksaw/plunge-cut-track-saw-applications.aspx)

Understanding the Track Saw (http://ezinearticles.com/?Understanding-the-Track-Saw&id=1799306)

Just try to level the floor. Possibly using strut to set things up initially.

Like ut a piece of strut along a board such that it's level and have the saw rest on cross piece of strrut and have the saw linear thing rest on that. Make a few passes along the long side of the stud especially if a DADO blade can be used.

Just ideas.

Just a though.

Most of the floor is covered with a concrete slab. There is a small area of subfloor that is exposed and a few missing boards from the subfloor, and that is where we are framing the new wall. It is actually in front of an existing wall where our chimney stack is. So leveling the whole floor is not an option. Our concern is not with the levelness of the floor but just making sure that we are building a good and sturdy wall to hang our cabinets on. Does that make sense?

Yep, makes sense. Shims may not be your best option. I think, then I'd might suggest notching the bottom plate over the high joists.

You didn't actually say which way the studs run, but I'm assuming perpendicular to the bottom plate.

The corner braces + anchoring to the wall behind really determine the ability to swing left or right. The cabinet load will be mostly downward.

Making it in three sections and using the metal framing gizmo's (forget the brand) especially on the corners would help get back most of this stability with 3 sections and so would internal braces parallel to the bottom plate near the top bottom center of the wall.

So, you have anchoring to the back wall, bracing and using metal framing brackets in the corners all would increase the lft right stability.

Does this make any sense? I hope there are better ideas presented.

That makes a lot of sense -- thanks for the prompt replies! I hadn't even thought about notching the bottom plate but that's a really good idea. I assume we would need a router for that? Or do you think we could do that with a reciprocating saw or a jigsaw?

Anchoring to the wall in back may be difficult because there's a chimney stack in the middle, and the wall is set back on each side of it (and covered in crumbling plaster) -- which is why we're framing out the new wall in the first place. We could anchor to the chimney though -- what kind of screws/nails/drill would you recommend for that?

By bracing, do you just mean nailing 2x4 blocking between the studs?

I will see what kind of metal framing brackets I can find at HD. Let me know if there's anything specific I should be looking for.

Thanks again, and sorry for any silly questions (we are novices at this)!

I'm thinking of a plane or large wood chisel. Just mark the 2 x 4 at the bottom and find the high point . Whittle at it until you find another. You could just score it briefly with a knife to do the edges. Jig or recip? I think neither.

Anchoring:
There are some cement fasteners on the website referenced later that anchor into cement and provide a female tapped hole where you could then insert a piece of all thread. ANything is possible, even mounting a 2 x for the wrong way flush with the rear of the wall and outting a hole in the middle of it. You'd have complete adjustibility. Let the hole have some slop, so things can move.

Something like this in the back wall. TITEN HD® Rod Hanger ~ Simpson Strong-Tie Anchor Systems® (http://www.simpsonanchors.com/catalog/mechanical/titen-hd/rod_hanger.html) especially since you said stuff is uneven.

Say, drill a hole near the center of a stud opening in the wall behind to accept the cement to all thread. Insert the all thread and transfer to a 2 x 4 mounted correctly. Then use that to drill a hole in the widest face. Rotate 90 deg with the long side against the back wall.


Use washers and double nuts especially against the back wall.
Put a washer and a nut in the back and also in the front so you'd be able to adjust it any distance from the wall.

I don't know if you nned it, because I can't see what you have although you can post a picture directly to this site using "go advanced/manage attachments".



Insert the all thread through the hole in the 2 x 4, say centered between the joist


Bracing: Screws are better and so is the strongtie fasteners.

The all-thread fasteners, probably 1/2" into masonary would give you a totally adjustable wall in the directions that matter.

Remember, the cabinets are going to mount on a stud and will be mostly be pulling down so the force, if anything will try to move the bottom 2 x 4 toward the back wall, so a few 2 x 4's at the bottom would prevent that shift.

Fastening the side members is what gives the frame support and the fasteners are then subject to shear. It takes a lot more effort to shear a bolt than it would to pull off a nut. Again, not sure what you have.

Insulate the all thread to prevent condensation unless you have other plans. You could even use foam pipe insulation.

Home depot sells this brand and even this particular product to put the frame together. http://www.strongtie.com/ftp/catalogs/c-2009/C-2009.pdf on page 170, #RTA2Z or some of the other connectors. Remember to get their screws.

They definitely add stability. Just bought a few last week.

Make sense?

Show us a picture of what you are trying to do.

KeepItSimpleStupid -- yes, that makes a lot of sense. Thanks for all the great ideas!

hkstroud -- Here is a photo of where we are framing the wall. It will be flush with the chimney. There are 3 joists to the left of the chimney at one height, and then there are 3 joists in front of the chimney that are higher (about 1/8-1/4") because this is where the original hearth was, and then there are another 3 joists to the right of the chimney that are at the normal height (they are now covered by a broken subfloor board that we will pry up. We want to lay the bottom plate across all 9 joists. Someone else just recommended using plywood shims under the lower joists, not sure if that is a good solution. Sorry, I know the picture is not so great but it is the best I could get.

Lay a 3" wide strip of 1/4 plywood across the floor joist on ether side of the old hearth and tack in place. Lay a 2x4 on top of that and nail in place. Measure from that 2x4 to ceiling joist. Measure in several places. Using the shortest measurement, subtract 3". Cut studs to that length. Figure out where the top and bottom of cabinets will be. Put all of the studs side by side with ends even. Set you saw depth of cut to 1". Cut the front edge of studs (1" depth), 3" above and below the height of the top and bottom of cabinets. Knock out material between cuts with hammer. That will be a notch to put in a piece of 1x6 to mount cabinets to. This way you won't be trying to find studs to mount cabinets.

Build wall. Cut a couple pieces of scrap 2x4 at a 45 of greater bevel. Stand wall in place along side of the 2x4 you have nailed to floor joist. Lift wall and slide pointed end of scrap 2x4 under bottom plate. Put your foot on the other end of 2x4 to lift wall and hammer bottom plate into place on top of the 2x4 you have nailed to floor joist. Start at one end and work you way to the other. Plumb wall and nail top and bottom plates.

Nail a piece of 1x6 in notches you made in studs